Some of you may recall that I had an idleing problem last week. Well we got that fixed. It was a vacum leak in the air control valve. Well that was fixed and I also put new plug wires on it and boy did she run great. That is untill today.

On the way home today she was running fine and than all of a sudden she wasn't running fine. While I was driving down the road the car all of a sudden lost power and started running rough. She had very little power and would idle, but real rough.

When I got home I looked and looked and couldn't find anything abnormal. There was no smoke and no vacum leaks that I could find. I started checking the plug wires and found no problems, so I went one step further. I took T-2 & L-2 plug wires off and it made no difference in how it ran. So I put them back on and took T-1 & L-1 wires off and it wouldn't even start. I also checked each individual wire the same way with the same results.

So than I get a timing light and check individual plug wires. Each plug wire is getting fire. So what gives? I need help big time.

Chad

 

Did you hear any loud bangs or anything just before you lost power?
Try doing a compression check.

 

Nope no loud bangs. Just cruising down the road and all of a sudden the power dropped. No smoke or nothing. Runs real rough and I don't beleive rotor #2 is running at all.

Chad

 

I'm not a expert on these cars yet, but have went through alot of problems,. One of them was just like yours, my AFM was bad, so replaced it, my throttle positions sensors were not adjusted properly, and my oil metering pump was bad. All three seemed to cause the super rich running condition. Double check your pressure sensor as well, and make sure the vac. line to it is hooked up. Look in the mazda factory manual for resistance values of the three sensors I mentioned, maybe one is going bad? Hope maybe it helps.

 

Pull one of the plugs out of the rear housing and turn it over to see if there is compression.

 

I will try that. I'm thinking that a corner seal may have come off. I should be able to turn it over by hand and feel the comprasion, right?

Chad

 

When I first blew my engine I was cruising down the road, normal conditions, about 3.5k rpms, then lost all power and it stalled out. Engine had detonated sometime in the days before and seal just went then I guess.

 

I would pull EGI fuse, and remove plug wires to avoid motor trying to start, then turn it over with the starter.

 

That sounds a lot like what mine has done, but mine didn't stall out and I can still start it, just ain't got no power. What the heck, this engine only has 164,000 miles on it.

Chad

 

I talked with RX-7 Heaven and he believes that I have blown a corner seal. He says he can get me a re-build kit for $750 (rotor housings $150 apiece) or a complete engine for $2000. Now I've got to decide if I should sink this kinda money into a 17 year old car.

Chad

 

could the car have just gone into limp mode?

 

talk to kevin landers @ www.rotaryresurrection.com

he offers rebuilt engines for cheaper then 2k. I just got my rebuild by him installed and it is running strong, i put over 2250 miles on it in 3 weeks and im getting ready to install my walboro and close the wastegate back up.

 

Whats limp mode?

Chad

 

I would tend to think most people wouldn't want to sink $2/3000 in an older car, unless everything else is perfect, because chances are you'll be putting more into it then you anticipate. Last year I put over $7000 in mine, '89TII, but it is mint, and I bought it new. Nothing else appealed to me, so what the heck.
Speak with Kevin, he'll hook you up.

 

If your car is 17 years old, then it is an 86, which doesn't have limp mode.

Start with a compression check, then go from there.

 

I've got an e-mail into Kevin. He is just up the road from me a little ways.

Chad

 

Got an e-mail back from Kevin. He also says it sounds like a blown seal. Didn't get to look at it last night so maybe tonight I can check the comprassion.

Chad