Turbo's get waaay too happy.
Even with a ported waste gate, my low boost setting (bypassing the MBC) went to 7 PSI.

Cars goes zoom, pingety ping at about 4K.
Sureshot goes "oops".

No further damage, but it was close.

I really need to switch the TPS signal to the S-AFC over to the pressure signal.

 

i just installed my safc2 a few days ago i couldnt imagine having it hooked up too the tps.. it was easy to do.. you really should .. what does detonation sound like by the way.. i still cant tell if my car is detonating..

 

Detonation can sound like a single sharp tick at 3500 or a rattle at 6K.
Like tapping on the housing with a hammer.
Power drops off some when it happens, so it can get mistaken for fuel cut.

I'm just tuned a little too agressive for 30 degrees. At 40 it runs great.

The boost gets ahead of the throttle at 30% in cold air.

 

I should do that to. Switch it to the boost sensor.



Gil

 

Yeah me too just don't really know how to tune from there.

 

Is this a stock Turbo ECU? The stock ECU should be retarding ignition if there are pings.

 

wow I didn't know that. Is this controlled by the knock sensor??? If so aren't they not really that good at higher rpm anyways??? maybe 4k rpm isn't all that much.

 

You can actually detonate at 7psi!? I didn't even know that.

-Joe

 

yeah me niether!

 

I think the knock sensor only detects knock at low rpms around idle. Dont quote me on that though.

 

Dude... switch that f'r over to boost sensor instead of TPS..... AND.... Run the wire from the boost sensor to your SAFC BEFORE the FCD..... IE.... make a "pass through" connector by taking the female terminal off the blue wire on your CDE FCD and soldering the signal wire onto it, then putting another female terminal on the ends you just soldered together then hook that back up to the boost sensor and run the signal wire through the firewall to the SAFC TPS input.

 

This has nothing at all to do with cold air. In fact cold air reduces the chance of detonation. You're running less boost than the engine runs stock, so if you're getting detonation, something is very wrong. My guesses would be bad fuel (unlikely) or poor tuning...

 

Yes and no - the colder air DOES reduce chances of detonation if boost levels remain consistent. However, the colder air will also cause more boost creep which can do damage. Pinging on an S5 TII motor @ 7psi isn't right though, especially with a pump and SAFC. Perhaps it's time to look into cleaning your injectors...if I were you, I'd get 2 550's cleaned and order a set of 720's. Give me a PM if you want, I've got a brand new set of GReddy 720's at the shop as someone backed out of an order

 

I SAY ALL ROTOR OR NO MOTOR! No sense in having all that power if you don't have the reliability with it. If you do your homework, You can have a rotary running good times naturally aspirated. I'm running low 14's all day with an S4 convertible with very little mods considering it's one of the heavier Sevens. I was gonna bolt on a turbo, but I keep seeing all these TIIs dropping like flies around me.

 

I don't think that the point of this thread was to tell people that N/A is better than turbo. Low 14's are somewhat respectable for a 7...not fast.

-Joe

 

Yep, very way off topic. Who is gonna raise that BS flag first

 

Sorry guys wrong place. It's just that almost every guy that I know with a turboed rotary is still working to get his car started again just to do high 12's or 13's. I took advantage of the topic and tried to vent. Sorry again

 

I'll answer the same way – yes and no. Cold air does not directly cause boost creep; it's still primarily caused by having an under-sized wastegate. If you have a properly sized wastegate you will not have boost creep just because it's cold outside. So if you do it right, the lower the outside air temps the safer the engine will be. However in this case this is all irrelevant anyway, since this detonation can't be blamed on too much boost. It's something else.

That attitude is based more on ignorance than facts. Reliablity comes from proper modification. A properly modded turbo will be no less reliable than an NA.

Right...

 

my car pings at 4000rpm and 6000rpm....

any idea whats wrong with it?...

it was dyno tuned but now it's acting stupid....

( sorry for restarting this thread )....

 

First- read the plugs to make sure you're not going lean.
Then back off the spark timing to match your current fuel & conditions.

Fuel suppliers change formulations with the seasons, so you sometimes have to tweak the tune.

 

hey guys, I'm just about to become a TII owner when my swap is done. I know this may be out of place but can someone explain the dynamics of boost creep? I am porting my wastegate before installing my motor but I would love to know the fundamentals of boost creep.

 

Basically the wg port(s) (depending on s4 or s5 turbo) are too small and cannot flow enough to bleed off the boost increase associated with installing a turboback exhaust and/or other mods. The boost will just keep going higher and higher and you know what happens then.