what upgrades should be done to stop overheating problems? i realize that it should be an upgrade radiator and an electric fan, but what else should be done?

 

Electric fans do not always cure overheating, and sometimes they can actually cause it. FOr example, when I had an e-fan on my vert, if I ran the A/C in 100F+ weather stopped, the cars temps would go above 200F and wouldn't stop until I turned off the A/C. With the stock fan and shroud, I can sit in 100F+ heat and enjoy 70F cool air with no significant change in temps. The stock fan on the other hand drags the engine down a bit, and takes away from throttle response almost causing a feel of lag.

An upgraded radiator is nice, but not always needed. Are you having overheating problems? Some things to check when you car starts running hot:

Check the radiator cap(s)
Check the thermostat
Flush the cooling system
Check belts that cross the water pump
Check the water pump
Check the hoses

All of the cooling parts of my cars are always OEM Mazda. That includes the gaskets, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and belts. They just last longer and are made better than your local parts store pieces. My radiator is a Fluidyne aluminum unit, and it is insanely nice. OEM fit, and cools really well. I go on canyon carving drives with the A/C on now

Hope this helps.

 

Dave's said eveything I would've said, bit I'll reiterate the bit about stock parts. The stock system was designed by Mazda to work perfectly in all conditions, even with the A/C on. Unless you're putting out quite a bit more power, overheating is only caused by failed components, or (as seems common around here!) removed or "upgraded" components!

 

when checking hoses dont forget the heater hoses. The one on the drivers side is prone to failure from oil getting heated up and deteriorating (sp?) the hose. When i had a coolant leak, that was the culprit. Dont forget the TB coolant hoses too

 

how exactly do you "flush" the system? do you jsut drain and refill or do you actually physically flush it with another liquid? (never had to do it before)

how do i "check" the:
water pump?
thermostat?
radiator cap?

or is my only choice to replace them?

 

ive heard that you just drain the system, then take a hose to the radiator cap.

(dont understand this becuase i thought that the metals + deposits in the hose water would damage seals..?)

If the cap is going, than you'll see liquid coming out of the top around it.

Stock mazda thermostats arent too expensive.

Yo, Guru's, chime in on how to check the water pump..

 

so would it be safe to say that the best thing to do is to get a quality electric fan and an aftermarket aluminum radiator and then makes sure that the rest of the system is in perfect working order?

 

A good way to prevent overheating is to not run the car. Ok, enough being a smart-***. Pretty much just make sure you have fresh fluids, that you have no leaks, make sure your thermostat is working and that your clutch fan isn't shot (if it is, it'd be time to look for electric, but if not it's not that big of a deal) And do as everyone else above me has already stated and you should be all set to go (oh yeah, also make sure your radiator doesn't have anything stuck on the front of it, my car had part of a bag stuck to it and wasn't cooling well)

 

I have encounted a few probs with cooling with my car.
I used to have a custom fmic, was 3 1/2 inch thick bar & plate, it took up the whole front area. When I had it installed and a after market ecu my clutch fan packs it in. I had a 16 inch thermo fan at home , a little short of cash I put the thermo on.

My car would run 90 to 100 degrees all the time, cause my cooler was way to thick I wasnt getting any air to the radiator. After wasting $2200 for the cooler and plumbing i went back to a top mount to solve my over heating prob.

I have since spoken to a few friends about their rotors and have been strongly advised to put the clutch fan back on, but I will be getting a 3 core radiator made for the car soon and a new bar & plate cooler for the front again.

But as always, Im saving for it.

 

I noticed that you asked using the word "stop". And, someone mentioned the word "prevent". Is your car already experiencing problems or do you just want to prevent them???

Some of "checks" should become "replace".

Thermostats are cheap. The last one I got was about $15 and I know they are cheaper at some of the mail order places. It lasts more than 3 years. The stant one lasted 3 months and cost $5. You do the math.
I have never replaced a radiator cap. But, it too is cheap and the one in my car is ~12 years old now.

I am obsessive compulsive when it comes to yearly antifreeze drain/refills. If everyone did this, there would be no need for flushes because you would prevent any corrosion/crud buildup from happening.

Water pump testing is kind of different. If it leaks, replace it. If you are doing a rebuild, replace it. If you have >100k miles and are trying to stop an overheating problem, replace it. If it doesn't spin too freely or has any play, replace it.

I would think that no Mazda RX-7s overheated when new. I am assuming that anyone(all of us) seeking more than stock power would need upgrades.

I would like to get an electric fan with 2-stage speed. This would prevent excessive charging system load. Plus, the low speed should be enough for proper A/C function. High speed could kick in if the water temp exceeds a certain temp. Too bad noone(?) sells a 2-speed fan.
My old '88 Maxima had two 2-speed fans. Concerning engine/alternator load, low speed wasn't noticeable. High speed(very noticeable) only kicked in during traffic and extremely hot days, and could suck up small animals I am not sure if it had 2-speed motors or if there was a low/high voltage fan supply.

Also, keeps tabs on your oiling system. Keep the oil cooler clean. Makes sure there are no leaks. Make sure that the oil is topped off and change regularly. And, loose the thermo pellet.

And, if your radiator is clogged or you don't have proven maintenance, an aluminum radiator is a worthy upgrade compared to repairing/replacing stock. The very few quality electric fans available cost almost as much as the fan clutch. So, the choice is yours. And, if you choose an electric fan, make sure that it flows at least 2000 cfm or more.

edit: I just noticed your other thread and you are experiencing issues.

 

how much does the Fluidyne radiator usually cost and from where?

 

Nice point, but a little off.

The hose tends to go from the oil actually getting on the hose, usually during oil changes when the filter drips oil down their. A oil leak from the o-rings below the oil filter often can cause the hose to fail shortly after.

Oil seeps into rubber, and causes it to become soft and deteriorate. On a similar note, WD-40 will do the same thing. Try spraying it on a blown-up latex glove and see what happens in 10 seconds or less.

The heat itself is not what causes the rubber to go.

 

$500-area. I've seen them as low as $450, but can't remember where.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by deadRX7Conv
Thermostats are cheap. The last one I got was about $15 and I know they are cheaper at some of the mail order places. It lasts more than 3 years. The stant one lasted 3 months and cost $5. You do the math.
I have never replaced a radiator cap. But, it too is cheap and the one in my car is ~12 years old now.

ALWAYS use a Genuine Mazda Thermostat.


Water pump testing is kind of different. If it leaks, replace it. If you are doing a rebuild, replace it. If you have >100k miles and are trying to stop an overheating problem, replace it. If it doesn't spin too freely or has any play, replace it.

Not very economical. That's like replacing a Turbo unit b/c you have a low boost problem. Why not first diagnose the problem and then get the parts to fix it?

I would like to get an electric fan with 2-stage speed. This would prevent excessive charging system load. Plus, the low speed should be enough for proper A/C function. High speed could kick in if the water temp exceeds a certain temp. Too bad noone(?) sells a 2-speed fan.

Not too hard to design if you have any electrical skills. Voltage regulation would be your choice here. I doubt your maxima used a geared electric motor.

Also, keeps tabs on your oiling system. Keep the oil cooler clean. Makes sure there are no leaks. Make sure that the oil is topped off and change regularly. And, loose the thermo pellet.

What thermo pellet are you talking about? There are more than one. Only modify the one behind the e-shaft bolt, nopt the pellet in your oil cooler.


All in all, you should first diagnose your problem. Check for "hot spots" on your radiator by moving your hand carefully over the radiator fins to check for areas that are hotter than others. If these exist, your rad is clogged and you'll need to have it flushed.
Try bleeding the air out of your system. this is done by removing the rad cap and running the car and adding coolant until no more will be accepted.
Check your thermostat. This is done via squeezing the upper hose after the car is running. When you let go, you should feel a surge.
Check your clutch fan. It should spin fairly easily when cold, and get stiffer as the car heats up.
These are the most common problem areas.

How do you know its overheating? What mods do you have? do you have your air pump?

 

uhmm... isn't this a check for the water pump? The fact that the hose starts cold and then gets hot as the engine reaches normal operating temperature is a test of proper thermostat function...

I guess technically, hose pressure is a test for both, but it is more specifically a test of the water pump...

 

no, i do not have the air pump. i have mods to the intake, exhaust, turbo system, ignition, fuel delivery, and ECU

 

your water pump might be slipping in the upper RPM's;

Have you invested in a dual alt. pulley?

 

I make the mistake of assuming that everyone has a little mechanical, search function, or rotary knowledge.
Someone has 1/2 dozen threads open concerning his cooling problem. Please download the Rx FSM cooling and lube systems. And, buy the haynes book because it is good general knowledge that can be used on any car. Then read the FSM chapters and haynes from beginning to end.

It is known and already mentioned to use genuine Mazda OEM parts and they are not expensive.
The Max didn't used a geared fan. It was 2 speed. I don't have the FSM anymore and I am too lazy to wire in a voltage regulator, controlled by temp, on an aftermarket fan.

I wouldn't think that a $70 water pump($180 with housing) is too expensive to replace(compared to engine rebuild in which case you will already have a new pump). Especially if you have any of the pump issues that I mentioned. And, if you got 100k miles out of it, thats pretty good usage considering the maintenance history most of these cars have. For the $5 cost of the pump/housing gasket, you could remove it and inspect it if you don't have the $70. There is no proper way to test a water pump without measuring flow output vs. rpm. Either replace it and know its good or ignore it.

There is only one commonly mentioned pellet. Rarely does anyone screw with the one in the oil cooler. The Eshaft bypass valve is what I was thinking about. I have no faith in factory gauges(oil pressure).
And, since you mentioned it, it would be a good idea to test the oil cooler bypass valve also.

The cost of all those new parts(radiator/pump/hoses/thermostat/cap/belts) will carry over to help your new rebuild last a long time.

 

Could you please tell me where I can get a new waterpump+housing for $180?? Mazdatrix wants $312 for both. I was going to replace mine just because...but not for $300+.. If I can get them for $180 like you say... I will.

 

I went to all the trouble of replacing EVERY cooling sensor on my 88 N/A after my reman motor was installed that Included a new Water Pump. These cars are vital when It comes to keeping them cool.

I even went all out to Install a Black Magic electric fan, that NZConvertibile knows all to well, to Insure all aspects of the Cooling System Is tops. In some sort of sick way, I am waiting for my 14yr old Radiator to fail on me to say my FC Is running and functioning as cool as can be.

I know that this doesn't answer your question specifically, atleast you know that myself and yourself Included, should make every reprocussion In ensuring your Cooling System Is top notch!

 

Sorry dude, S4 vs. S5 vs NA and Turbo for each, list different prices. And, I think that yours is ridiculously high. I quoted mine since I didn't see the specs for his car. And, it was MY mistake to say $180 when it should be $180-$312+ depending on year, model, options......Your pump isn't to expensive. Your housing must be autographed by someone famous

So many different pump/housing combos makes me wonder what the difference/interchangability between all of them are.

Ricerocket's car is ???????

 

upgrades to cure over-heating?unless youre into roadracing youre car shouldnt over-heat,if it does you need to find out why.