Best way to break in cluch without glazing
09-13-07, 11:29 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Best way to break in cluch without glazing
Just wondering if you are short on time what the preferd method of breaking in a clutch is without glazing it?
Cerametalic on steel, the discs were used and 1 needed to be flipped, hence not matched.
I just want to wear them down without glazing/heat checking so they bite better.
Cerametalic on steel, the discs were used and 1 needed to be flipped, hence not matched.
I just want to wear them down without glazing/heat checking so they bite better.
09-14-07, 11:34 AM
#4
Freebasing mountain roads
Just drive normal for a few days. No high rev burn outs, dont try to catch second gear etc. Common sense will due just fine, and dont let clutch slip much when you take off. After a few days (100 miles) drive like you want to.
09-15-07, 09:04 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Don't slip when I take off, haha.
That's funny, I haven't been able to do that since a stock organic.
I know what you mean though, I haven't really abused it just yet.
I've just been doing a lot of light highway slips.
I lowerd my boost from 18 to 16psi and it almost fully holds it. 14 psi is 400rwhp.
I think I may still need a stronger clutch but, dam this thing shifts so much better.
That's funny, I haven't been able to do that since a stock organic.
I know what you mean though, I haven't really abused it just yet.
I've just been doing a lot of light highway slips.
I lowerd my boost from 18 to 16psi and it almost fully holds it. 14 psi is 400rwhp.
I think I may still need a stronger clutch but, dam this thing shifts so much better.
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09-16-07, 12:51 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Problem solved, after another 50 miles tonight and a ton of high gear slips, she seated in and is holding good. Just took 200 miles to do.
6 puck soild also = broken axels.
6 puck soild also = broken axels.
09-16-07, 08:20 AM
#11
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hey mate
i got a 6puk sprung clutch and a new flywheel(stock)
and i ran it in for 1000km's.
lots of people told me Rev and dump it and she is ran in, some said slip it a few times on take off and its embeded,
but i opted for proffesional advice, drive normal for 1000km's, no flat changing, no rev and dump, nothin over 3-3500 rpm.
i wouldnt run a clutch in any other way.
cheers
i got a 6puk sprung clutch and a new flywheel(stock)
and i ran it in for 1000km's.
lots of people told me Rev and dump it and she is ran in, some said slip it a few times on take off and its embeded,
but i opted for proffesional advice, drive normal for 1000km's, no flat changing, no rev and dump, nothin over 3-3500 rpm.
i wouldnt run a clutch in any other way.
cheers
09-16-07, 03:31 PM
#12
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heh, from what i know, the first couple of time you take off and slip a few, thats all u need to do. i know a guy at the performance shop that does that to break in clutches for customers. after a couple of times he basically drives it hard to check for slippage. usually thats done after 50 miles.
09-16-07, 10:43 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just like engine breaking in, everyone has different thoughts I guess.
It's too late , I have already gone easy the first 100 miles. at 250 miles I just got back from the strip. It holds go till 19 psi. I noticed a little slippage above that so I most likely need to finish the break in period. As I have come to understand, the main thing is to heat cycle it when it is new, like race tires. Since the clutch was used, it doesn't need that. Because the disc did not match the surface, I just need to wear it into place. And anyone who has seen what cerametalic does to flywheels can tell u how it eats them up. I think heat checking is the only danger, glazing must be for organics IMO.
It's too late , I have already gone easy the first 100 miles. at 250 miles I just got back from the strip. It holds go till 19 psi. I noticed a little slippage above that so I most likely need to finish the break in period. As I have come to understand, the main thing is to heat cycle it when it is new, like race tires. Since the clutch was used, it doesn't need that. Because the disc did not match the surface, I just need to wear it into place. And anyone who has seen what cerametalic does to flywheels can tell u how it eats them up. I think heat checking is the only danger, glazing must be for organics IMO.
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