When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
rx7 FC GXL TII swap
Was wondering what is the best FMIC setup that doesn't require very many modifications to the body or relocation of too many things?
I dont use the power steering on my car atm so im probably going to take that out anyways, and my hood has no water squirter's so the window washer fluid container can be removed too.
Know I have to make some mods to make holes for the IC piping, but want to get other peoples opinions and thoughts so i only have to do it once and don't mess up my baby
also looking at a Mishimoto Z line intercooler. Looks to fit well with the stock front bumper and (in theory) should clear everything as it is, any other recommendations?
Edit: I am also 100% ok with any aftermarket TMIC options if there still are any. ive found a few old threads that talk about this subject but most of the links just dead end with no results. This would be the preferred option but I know that if im going to want more boost a FMIC would be the way to go, im just really nervous when it comes to custom fabbing shiz.
HKS and ARC both made upgraded top mounts, they come up used here and there, $$$. Re Amemyia takes 2 stock IC's and makes a 1.5 intercooler, seems to be a really good solution.
the kit you'll see on ebay and such is a copy of a Greddy kit, and it goes right up front in the grill, requires cutting and such.
the HKS kit, and the old school Greddy kits go under the hood latch, and its a nice place for the IC. the old school kits require cutting, but you can run the AC and PS and air pump. the HKS Type S kit is the big core size like the new Greddy and Ebay stuff, but it fits under the hood latch, and the end tanks point the hoses in a way that you don't need to cut anything, which is nice.
if you're running a stock based turbo, the top mount works really well, and a bigger top mount would only improve things.
HKS and ARC both made upgraded top mounts, they come up used here and there, $$$. Re Amemyia takes 2 stock IC's and makes a 1.5 intercooler, seems to be a really good solution.
the kit you'll see on ebay and such is a copy of a Greddy kit, and it goes right up front in the grill, requires cutting and such.
the HKS kit, and the old school Greddy kits go under the hood latch, and its a nice place for the IC. the old school kits require cutting, but you can run the AC and PS and air pump. the HKS Type S kit is the big core size like the new Greddy and Ebay stuff, but it fits under the hood latch, and the end tanks point the hoses in a way that you don't need to cut anything, which is nice.
if you're running a stock based turbo, the top mount works really well, and a bigger top mount would only improve things.
Right now im running stock turbo but want to prepare for the future when i get a BNR turbo (stage 2 or 3) and boost controller. I found the RE Amemiya IC you were talking about. How much boost/horsepower do you think that one can take before your blowing hot air into the motor? I'd like to get around 300 reliably and that is about where i want to stop.
For a sub-400RWHP motor, the stock top mount will do just fine.
I'm running a street ported 13BT that I built a few years ago for my '89T2, dynos all day at 360~380RWHP at 15psi boost on a BNR stage "2.5" turbo Bought the turbo when BNR was changing up his lineup, mine specs somewhere between the current stage 2 & 3 turbos he sells. Anyway, I went all in on engine management with an AEM Infinity ECU, supporting fuel mods (i.e., Supra fuel pump, ID 1000 injectors all around, better fuel plumbing, etc.) and a Koyo N-flow radiator and E-fan to keep things cool.
I've been logging IAT's and they stay pretty cool with the stock top mount. From a cold start if I keep moving, they will stay at no more that 20*F above whatever the ambient temps are. And if it heat soaks (i.e., I get stuck in traffic), a few minutes of moving at 40mph or more and it cools right down.
For a sub-400RWHP motor, the stock top mount will do just fine.
I'm running a street ported 13BT that I built a few years ago for my '89T2, dynos all day at 360~380RWHP at 15psi boost on a BNR stage "2.5" turbo Bought the turbo when BNR was changing up his lineup, mine specs somewhere between the current stage 2 & 3 turbos he sells. Anyway, I went all in on engine management with an AEM Infinity ECU, supporting fuel mods (i.e., Supra fuel pump, ID 1000 injectors all around, better fuel plumbing, etc.) and a Koyo N-flow radiator and E-fan to keep things cool.
I've been logging IAT's and they stay pretty cool with the stock top mount. From a cold start if I keep moving, they will stay at no more that 20*F above whatever the ambient temps are. And if it heat soaks (i.e., I get stuck in traffic), a few minutes of moving at 40mph or more and it cools right down.
Right now im running a Koyorad aluminum racing radiator so Im not sure if I should get a better radiator. although, that being said, this summer my car has handled the Florida heat fairly well (the same cant be said about the ac system O.o). if you think the stock top mount will do just fine, then ill leave it as it is, although I did see a forum post regarding grinding off the heat plate below the intercooler for added cooling. not sure if that is true but if it is its certainly a cheap way to decrease intake temps.
one more thing. I was thinking of getting an E fan for the condenser. would it be fine adding an E fan to the car using the stock s4 alternator or should I upgrade to the FD alt to be safe? Im still running the clutch fan, I decided to take the advice of someone who told me the clutch fan + fan shroud and undertray would be more efficient to move air through the rad. (i could be wrong)
Right now im running a Koyorad aluminum racing radiator so Im not sure if I should get a better radiator. although, that being said, this summer my car has handled the Florida heat fairly well (the same cant be said about the ac system O.o). if you think the stock top mount will do just fine, then ill leave it as it is, although I did see a forum post regarding grinding off the heat plate below the intercooler for added cooling. not sure if that is true but if it is its certainly a cheap way to decrease intake temps.
one more thing. I was thinking of getting an E fan for the condenser. would it be fine adding an E fan to the car using the stock s4 alternator or should I upgrade to the FD alt to be safe? Im still running the clutch fan, I decided to take the advice of someone who told me the clutch fan + fan shroud and undertray would be more efficient to move air through the rad. (i could be wrong)
Don't grind the metal under the stock TMIC off. It's there to serve 2 purposes - (1) Working with the hood scoop,, it helps direct air flow thru the IC core rather than around it, and (2) Since it provides an air gap between the IC core and the rest of the IC structure/top of the engine, it helps reduce heat soak. I'd bet that if you grind it off, the IATs would end up higher than they were normally, and it would take less time to heat soak.
Definitely keep the undertray, and fan shroud/ducting for whatever fan you end up using - you want airflow to go thru the radiator core and not around it. I was perfectly happy with the stock mechanical fan, and it cooled the car really well. The only reason I replaced it with an E-fan is because with the switch to an aftermarket ECU allowed for a more efficient and programmable control of when & how the fan operates, and it reduces parasitic drag on the engine a bit.
Stock T2's and AT equipped FCs have an auxiliary E-fan for the AC condenser - it should come on whenever the AC is operating. The fan on my T2 was noisy as hell, and I discovered 2 of the 5 fan blades were broken, throwing it out of balance. Replaced it with a small 9' or 10" generic fan that I got off of Ebay, that I managed to fit into the OEM fan mounting hardware.
I've been logging IAT's and they stay pretty cool with the stock top mount. From a cold start if I keep moving, they will stay at no more that 20*F above whatever the ambient temps are. And if it heat soaks (i.e., I get stuck in traffic), a few minutes of moving at 40mph or more and it cools right down.
i found the same thing, the stock cooling system works really well.
Don't grind the metal under the stock TMIC off. It's there to serve 2 purposes - (1) Working with the hood scoop,, it helps direct air flow thru the IC core rather than around it, and (2) Since it provides an air gap between the IC core and the rest of the IC structure/top of the engine, it helps reduce heat soak. I'd bet that if you grind it off, the IATs would end up higher than they were normally, and it would take less time to heat soak..
i think there was a thread where someone put insulation on that bottom plate, and that coupled with an air intake that gets cooler air would work well too
Don't grind the metal under the stock TMIC off. It's there to serve 2 purposes - (1) Working with the hood scoop,, it helps direct air flow thru the IC core rather than around it, and (2) Since it provides an air gap between the IC core and the rest of the IC structure/top of the engine, it helps reduce heat soak. I'd bet that if you grind it off, the IATs would end up higher than they were normally, and it would take less time to heat soak.
Definitely keep the undertray, and fan shroud/ducting for whatever fan you end up using - you want airflow to go thru the radiator core and not around it. I was perfectly happy with the stock mechanical fan, and it cooled the car really well. The only reason I replaced it with an E-fan is because with the switch to an aftermarket ECU allowed for a more efficient and programmable control of when & how the fan operates, and it reduces parasitic drag on the engine a bit.
Stock T2's and AT equipped FCs have an auxiliary E-fan for the AC condenser - it should come on whenever the AC is operating. The fan on my T2 was noisy as hell, and I discovered 2 of the 5 fan blades were broken, throwing it out of balance. Replaced it with a small 9' or 10" generic fan that I got off of Ebay, that I managed to fit into the OEM fan mounting hardware.
Well mine isn't a turbo II, its a GXL with a swap. and mine didn't come with a e fan. but your saying the stock alt should provide enough power for all of it?
also, on the subject of the intercooler. with my CF hood, it doesn't come with the rubber liner that's on the stock TII hood to aim air at the IC. I'll post a picture of the underside of my hood, but im wondering how to add that liner if that makes a difference, which I'm assuming it does.
Well mine isn't a turbo II, its a GXL with a swap. and mine didn't come with a e fan. but your saying the stock alt should provide enough power for all of it?
The stock alternator is pretty weak even with a completely stock electrical system; S5 puts out a few more amps than S4, 80 vs. 70, IIRC. That said, it should be enough if you add just the stock auxiliary e-fan or similar sized small fan for the AC condenser. If you go for a main E-fan, you really need to consider an upgraded alternator that can put out at least 100 amps
.
Originally Posted by Paulc19
also, on the subject of the intercooler. with my CF hood, it doesn't come with the rubber liner that's on the stock TII hood to aim air at the IC. I'll post a picture of the underside of my hood, but im wondering how to add that liner if that makes a difference, which I'm assuming it does.
Is your CF hood a copy of the T2 hood with the scoop and the underside hole in the same place? Post up some pictures, I'm sure something can be improvised that would work. What you might try is using some of that self-stick foam used for HVAC & window/door insulation. Run the stuff along the metal top edge of the stock IC, to form a dam that surrounds it all the way. Then if sized right, when you close the hood on it, the foam will compress some and create a seal between the IC and the hole in the hood.
The stock alternator is pretty weak even with a completely stock electrical system; S5 puts out a few more amps than S4, 80 vs. 70, IIRC. That said, it should be enough if you add just the stock auxiliary e-fan or similar sized small fan for the AC condenser. If you go for a main E-fan, you really need to consider an upgraded alternator that can put out at least 100 amps
.
Is your CF hood a copy of the T2 hood with the scoop and the underside hole in the same place? Post up some pictures, I'm sure something can be improvised that would work. What you might try is using some of that self-stick foam used for HVAC & window/door insulation. Run the stuff along the metal top edge of the stock IC, to form a dam that surrounds it all the way. Then if sized right, when you close the hood on it, the foam will compress some and create a seal between the IC and the hole in the hood.
Yea now I'm looking at it, think i will definitely need some sort of rubber lining to direct air into the IC. I used to have a s4 upper and lower manifold but the lower intake manifold cracked on me (thankfully not while driving) and I had to get a new one and the only thing that was available was s5 so that's why the IC is a bit crooked
Also wondering what other mods i can do to it to decrease heat soak and keep air temps low when i finally pull the trigger and up the boost. Wanting to aim for 300 but no more than that. I've heard that the s5 turbo might be able to make those numbers (which i do have an s5 turbo) but just in case I'm also prepared to get a bnr hybrid if it comes to it.
This picture might help - it's a shot of my stock S5 IC & hood. As you can see, the rubber seal is fitted to the hood. But you can probably get the same result by gluing a rubber or foam weather strip type material around the metal lip on the IC. As long as it seals up reasonably well with your CF hood, and the hole in the hood lines up well with the IC when closed, it should work the same. Foam will be less durable over time than rubber though.
This picture might help - it's a shot of my stock S5 IC & hood. As you can see, the rubber seal is fitted to the hood. But you can probably get the same result by gluing a rubber or foam weather strip type material around the metal lip on the IC. As long as it seals up reasonably well with your CF hood, and the hole in the hood lines up well with the IC when closed, it should work the same. Foam will be less durable over time than rubber though.
