Really sorry if im asking a question that's prolly been asked a trillion times, but I'm about to get a FC with some mods on it and was wondering what would be the best bang for the buck. Here's the quick run down on the car :

6,000 Miles on rebuilt streetported engine
Microtech LT8 ECU
Walbro 255LPH pump
Taurus E-Fan
SS Clutch and Brake lines
ACT Street/Strip clutch
Aluminum Radiator just profesionally cleaned.
3' RB Downpipe, Pre-silencer, and Corksport catback
Ported wastegate
TurboXS Type H BOV
New alternator
new battery
New Radiator hoses
Emissions removed

Was wondering out of those mods, was wondering what I could get for a smoother ride / more power. Really sorry again if im asking such a newbie question. Not too familiar with cars, especially rotaries.

Now on the side...
1)I was wondering what kinda of cat I needed to get to help me pass emissions.... Because when I look online for parts I see two/three different cats.

2)Also when someone says that they removed the "Emissions", exactly what is that?

3) What does the compression of the engine usually deal with? I mean, the engine / seals were all replaced when the engine was rebuilt about 6k miles ago. So the compression should be ok, right?

I'm sure I'll end up bringing up more questions when I actually get the car, but this is it for now... So flame on ~ :P

PS- Thanks in advance for any advice / flames

 

To pass emissions, you need to get rid of the downpipe and get a good hi-flow catalytic converter. When you've got a good RB system, it's a damn shame to have to do...but hey, it's gotta be legal. Depending on your skill with cars, you may get a cat for inspection day, and stick the downpipe in the rest of the year...

There aren't many cats that can hold up to the Rotary's heat. If you want a permanent solutions, I'd recommend a Bonez Superflow. Make sure you get the right one for your car. Most other cats will burn up quickly. Of course, if you use it for inspection-day only, find something cheap. Heh heh.

As far as removing Emissions... here's the quick rundown:

The biggest thing holding back a stock rotary engine is emmissions standards. To legally drive, the car exhaust has to be so clean, but all the stuff that makes it clean holds the engine back. When someone removes the emissions, they take out all that crap, usually make a straight pipe from the engine to the back (like what you have) and this makes the engine able to produce the type of power it's really capable of. This, of course, means the car isn't street legal in places that have emissions testing.

Also, if they removed everything from emissions, you're probably missing your air pump too, which is essential to passing emissions.

Good luck...

 

thought the cat goes after the DP?

 

On some, yes.
The RB turbo down pipe goes all the way to the mid pipe (cat back).

 

Well, that's certainly an interesting car to start with.

Nowhere are fuel injectors mentioned. While the Microtech will certainly eek out more power from the stock injectors then the stock ECU would, I would still worry. Especially if you don't know who tuned the car. Tuning is VERY important with any standalone ECU. A properly tuned standalone will be lighyears ahead of the stock ECU. A poorly tuned one will be hell to live with, and if you don't have the knowledge to tune it yourself, then be prepared to pay a good amount to have it done.

 

Injectors really aren't necessary items at this stage. He has the exhaust mods, a ported wastegate and a walbro pump. The walbro and the microtech should be more than enough to keep things safe for now. Tuning, as you said, is the key but the car sounds properly modded to me. I'd bring it to the dyno to tune with a wideband just to be sure the previous owners tuning was ok, make a conservative tune and forget about it.

 

I'd get a quality boost gauge and an electronic boost controller, (MT's don't have boost controllers do they?) probably a greddy profec b. Then a fmic, some 720s for the secondaries, and a dyno tune to 12psi or so. From there it really depends how far (fast) you want to go.

 

thanks everyone for their input! right now doing as much research as I can on it... in terms of passing emissions... I guess i really need to be able to see the car to help me figure some things out eh? lol. " some 720s for the secondaries" what are 720s? O_o

 

errr nm.. 720cc secondary fuel injectors right?

 

It sounds like you need to know some more about these cars before you go ahead and buy one to beat on. We wouldn't want you to blow your new car up

He is talking about fuel injector size here. The computer in your car is very flexible and a good tuner should be able to get the car to run well and make good safe power. For bigger power, larger fuel injectors are needed. Your car has 4 injectors, 2 primary and 2 secondary. The secondaries are there to give the car more fuel as the revs and load on the motor increases. The stock injector size is 550cc, he is referring to 720cc which will get some more gas in there to make even mroe power safely. The computer in your car will control larger injectors if it is tuned correctly. Pretty much anything added to the car will require different tuning at this stage.

 

Etrips if you are in northern VA you won't be passing emission without dropping some coin on the car. Might try going to rotary perfomance in Manassis and having the check the car over before you go buying stuff and trying. Unfortunatly Virginia is not a fan of modding your car out and gutting emissions.

 

Alright from what I have gathered so far. Seems like VA emissions (IM240) test you need to pass the visual in which they look for a main catalytic converter right? do they look for anything else? or just the cat? If thats it, then just buy/borrow/steal/Acquire one and get a air pump and that should take care of that part. Then you have to pass the measurement of HC, CO, CO2, and NOX. Which I think is the easy part... just make sure to add the "additive" to your gas tank. And if need be, change the fuel maps and AFR... anything Im missing here?

 

Yeah I know, need to learn more... but I still got a week to learn as much as I can lol. Just getting sick of my 240sx, so Im selling that car and buying this 7 Yeah I figured out the 720s after like 10sec I posted what it was. Just woke up! and information is still sinking in lol.

 

What I would personally do is buy a cheap cat. and have flanges welded on it so it will be a direct bolt-in replacement for that RB presilencer. Then get the car tuned for the best possible emissions. I have heard of people passing with no cat before at all this way. Just lean it way out I guess. A good tuner should be able to tell you specifics and do it for you. Then swap the cat out and switch back to your other setting(s) for boost.

 

Guessing your refering to taking my car to any rotary specialist and doing this? Approx how much do you think a shop would charge to get the flanges welded in and tuned?