Best aftermarket E-Fan to go with Koyo radiator?
#28
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I only put in an E-FAN because I had to for my engine swap (13B-REW).
I had a brand new black magic, last for less than a month before the motor died, got the taurus fan and it was to big for the setup I have.
Easy fix, swap the taurus motor into the black magic shroud, works great for several months now with no failure.
And I do have a KOYO radiator,
Best thing you can do is stick with the clutch fan if you can, its better on many levels
I had a brand new black magic, last for less than a month before the motor died, got the taurus fan and it was to big for the setup I have.
Easy fix, swap the taurus motor into the black magic shroud, works great for several months now with no failure.
And I do have a KOYO radiator,
Best thing you can do is stick with the clutch fan if you can, its better on many levels
#29
Apex Seal Treachery!!!!!!
iTrader: (13)
Completely off topic and I don't want to jack the thread, but I see you're using an LC-1. Mind tossing me a PM or checking out my thread, simply letting me know what you think of your LC-1?
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/need-build-advice-jdm-swapped-vert-723302/
#33
That's the one, it's a 3 wire(i.e. 2-speed) and better shaped shroud than the single speed 3.0 liter tarus/escort etc. The high speed is an amp hog but the advantage is the option to control it on the low setting and if needed switched to the high setting. You are going to need a FD or comparable 100 amp alternator if you plan on using it on the high speed with other accessories at idle.
#40
xXxFC3SxXx
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Stumbled across this thread. Last post was 2008 so 10 years have passed now. I'm currently running a Koyo N Flow with the stock clutch fan and shroud. I'm looking to clean up the engine bay with a Flexalite fan especially since my stock clutch fan is now 27years old. I reached out to Flexalite regarding the size. They recommended the Black Magic S-Blade (15in) since it will fit within the dimensions of the Koyo N Flow (see attached). Previously people had mentioned that they had bad experiences with failure. Is that still the general consensus?
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
#41
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Stumbled across this thread. Last post was 2008 so 10 years have passed now. I'm currently running a Koyo N Flow with the stock clutch fan and shroud. I'm looking to clean up the engine bay with a Flexalite fan especially since my stock clutch fan is now 27years old. I reached out to Flexalite regarding the size. They recommended the Black Magic S-Blade (15in) since it will fit within the dimensions of the Koyo N Flow (see attached). Previously people had mentioned that they had bad experiences with failure. Is that still the general consensus?
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
Old pic of the fan mounted back in the days when I was mocking up intercooler pipes:
#42
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
The 15 inch one will cover at least 80% of the radiator core. I've been using one since mid 90's. I've ran this configuration with and without a thermostat, in places close to the equator, in traffic, with AC, not issues whatsoever. The other one posted (extreme) has a larger shroud, and will require trimming it in order to clear the the radiator inlet hose (has been posted here). I currently have a 86-88 radiator rails with welded tabs for a the 15inch radiator, I can sell them to you cheap; and will make everything a bolt on affair (provided that you are running a 86-88 radiator)
Old pic of the fan mounted back in the days when I was mocking up intercooler pipes:
Old pic of the fan mounted back in the days when I was mocking up intercooler pipes:
Last edited by Gabriel82; 09-27-18 at 02:51 PM.
#43
Instrument Of G0D.
iTrader: (1)
Stumbled across this thread. Last post was 2008 so 10 years have passed now. I'm currently running a Koyo N Flow with the stock clutch fan and shroud. I'm looking to clean up the engine bay with a Flexalite fan especially since my stock clutch fan is now 27years old. I reached out to Flexalite regarding the size. They recommended the Black Magic S-Blade (15in) since it will fit within the dimensions of the Koyo N Flow (see attached). Previously people had mentioned that they had bad experiences with failure. Is that still the general consensus?
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
Another option I was considering is the Direct Fit Black Magic X-Treme for a Tacoma since it's off by .5inches height. It would require a little cutting of the shroud due to the filer neck and the intake/return pipes of the system.
#44
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Any decent 16" fan will give you enough coverage on that radiator even without a square shroud. I'm running a Spal (not the extreme 3000cfm one, too many amps!) mounted direct to pretty much the same radiator. It is more than adequate on the hottest days stuck in traffic.
- Using those direct mount zip tie kinda things is a really bad idea. The rad core was not designed to hold the weight and resist the motor starting torque...it'll rub and abrade the bars/fins until it leaks.
- Many in this thread don't seem to understand what the shroud is actually doing.
It's quite simple.
Air, just like water, can be considered a fluid in this scenario and like water, air will take the path of least resistance. The shroud forces the fan to draw through the core, rather than suck from the sides, which the fan is perfectly happy to do. Also, the shroud will space the fan off the core, which minimizes the "dead spot" under the motor housing, increasing the surface area being cooled. There are formulae to figure the ideal distance but practical considerations usually prevail and any distance is better than none. Finally, the shroud provides a sturdy platform to mount the fan, thus relieving the core of that duty.
The long/short here is USE A SHROUD.
#45
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
Two things, if I may...
- Using those direct mount zip tie kinda things is a really bad idea. The rad core was not designed to hold the weight and resist the motor starting torque...it'll rub and abrade the bars/fins until it leaks.
- Many in this thread don't seem to understand what the shroud is actually doing.
It's quite simple.
Air, just like water, can be considered a fluid in this scenario and like water, air will take the path of least resistance. The shroud forces the fan to draw through the core, rather than suck from the sides, which the fan is perfectly happy to do. Also, the shroud will space the fan off the core, which minimizes the "dead spot" under the motor housing, increasing the surface area being cooled. There are formulae to figure the ideal distance but practical considerations usually prevail and any distance is better than none. Finally, the shroud provides a sturdy platform to mount the fan, thus relieving the core of that duty.
The long/short here is USE A SHROUD.
- Using those direct mount zip tie kinda things is a really bad idea. The rad core was not designed to hold the weight and resist the motor starting torque...it'll rub and abrade the bars/fins until it leaks.
- Many in this thread don't seem to understand what the shroud is actually doing.
It's quite simple.
Air, just like water, can be considered a fluid in this scenario and like water, air will take the path of least resistance. The shroud forces the fan to draw through the core, rather than suck from the sides, which the fan is perfectly happy to do. Also, the shroud will space the fan off the core, which minimizes the "dead spot" under the motor housing, increasing the surface area being cooled. There are formulae to figure the ideal distance but practical considerations usually prevail and any distance is better than none. Finally, the shroud provides a sturdy platform to mount the fan, thus relieving the core of that duty.
The long/short here is USE A SHROUD.
#46
Instrument Of G0D.
iTrader: (1)
Two things, if I may...
- Using those direct mount zip tie kinda things is a really bad idea. The rad core was not designed to hold the weight and resist the motor starting torque...it'll rub and abrade the bars/fins until it leaks.
- Many in this thread don't seem to understand what the shroud is actually doing.
It's quite simple.
Air, just like water, can be considered a fluid in this scenario and like water, air will take the path of least resistance. The shroud forces the fan to draw through the core, rather than suck from the sides, which the fan is perfectly happy to do. Also, the shroud will space the fan off the core, which minimizes the "dead spot" under the motor housing, increasing the surface area being cooled. There are formulae to figure the ideal distance but practical considerations usually prevail and any distance is better than none. Finally, the shroud provides a sturdy platform to mount the fan, thus relieving the core of that duty.
The long/short here is USE A SHROUD.
- Using those direct mount zip tie kinda things is a really bad idea. The rad core was not designed to hold the weight and resist the motor starting torque...it'll rub and abrade the bars/fins until it leaks.
- Many in this thread don't seem to understand what the shroud is actually doing.
It's quite simple.
Air, just like water, can be considered a fluid in this scenario and like water, air will take the path of least resistance. The shroud forces the fan to draw through the core, rather than suck from the sides, which the fan is perfectly happy to do. Also, the shroud will space the fan off the core, which minimizes the "dead spot" under the motor housing, increasing the surface area being cooled. There are formulae to figure the ideal distance but practical considerations usually prevail and any distance is better than none. Finally, the shroud provides a sturdy platform to mount the fan, thus relieving the core of that duty.
The long/short here is USE A SHROUD.
As to the shroud, there are two schools of thought, one being that a shroud can actually impede air flow at speed, and if the radiator core is shaped in such a way that a single fan covers it , ie a square 18x18 in this case with say a 16" fan then a shroud is almost redundant, especially if there are clearance issues. Almost all the bars are covered by the fan and the say, 80% area that the fan covers is getting superior flow to the 100% of the rad that would be getting covered by a shroud. It all evens out.
its a contentious issue and each to their own, but shroudless does work fine and i would say preferable to a poorly designed or fitted shroud. Of course an oem style shroud would have to be the best option but not always practical in a modified car.
Either way the thing should be air tight to the rad.
just sayin.
Last edited by WANKfactor; 09-27-18 at 07:44 PM.
#50
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
Found the Taurus Fan for $52 on Rockauto. All I would need is a control switch, are there any you recommend?
Rock Auto - Ford Taurus V8 Fan.
Found this regarding the Mercury Villager fan.
Rock Auto - Ford Taurus V8 Fan.
Found this regarding the Mercury Villager fan.