JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm trying to plan out a safe, reliable finish to my JDM 13B swapped convertible. Here's what I have so far.

89 convertible with a S5 13B turbo and transmission
N370 ECU with pins swapped on my N/A harness
TII driveshaft, diff and halfshafts
Airpump is removed and ACV is blocked off
Dual belt alternator pulley
N350 MAF on an Apexi cone filter with a 3-4" (can't remember the size ATM) custom TID. I've got a Cosmo MAF I'm trying to figure out how to create an adapter for. It won't bolt onto Apexi filter directly.

N390 Boost Pressure Sensor
Greddy v2 boost gauge
Racing Beat REV-TII exhaust, turbo back
FCD
Koyo radiator but still using the clutch fan.

I know I need to focus on the fuel system and a wideband A/F gauge. I'm interested in Innovative's LC-1 or AEM's wideband.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67
Any opinions on either of those widebands?

I bought an FD fuel pump this evening. I've gotten advice to get either 720 or 850 injectors for the secondaries. Can anyone offer up some opinions on what size injectors I should be looking for?

With my modest build do I need to look into engine management or a boost controller?

That's all I can think to include at the moment. Let me know if more info would make advice easier.

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I just did something very similar to you!!!

I have a S5 Vert, and just setup the entire TII drivetrain... engine, tranny, driveshaft, diff, halfshafts etc. I have a n370 ecu and n350afm (i think). Racing beat 3" back to two HKS old school 2.5" mufflers. mazdatrix FCD.

For fuel, I put in a walbro fuel pump then found a s4 fuel secondary fuel rail. I removed the stock pressure regulator and plugged an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator onto it. Hooked up a wideband and added fuel till WOT gave me 11.5 to 1. I then backed timing off two degrees. The car makes 193whp and 190lb ft of torque on a mustang dyno. I don't have a boost controller but the car makes 10psi.

I used a PLX Devices M-300 wideband. I used to have an LC-1, but it requires too much wiring and takes some time to calibrate itself. To be honest, it just pissed me off. I like the PLX way better.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the heads up on the PLX. I'll start doing some reading on it. The thing I kinda like about the LC-1 is that I don't need an A/F gauge. I want to keep my interior as clean as possible. The less shown the less a thief wants to break in. That and I really like the FC interior stock. I paid more for the Greddy boost gauge simply to keep the lighting as uniform as possible.

I know nothing about tuning so once I get all the pieces parts together I'll pay someone to tune it for me. Though I would love to learn tuning. From what little I know it sounds like it's both an art and a science. From what I understand once it's tuned the air fuel ratio should stay consistent to the settings...provided nothing is malfunctioning. If I'm assuming correctly an A/F gauge is great for immediate feedback, but the LC-1 will allow a laptop to be hooked up for tuning purposes. The reason I bring all this up is I'd prefer to have an A/F gauge that matches the amber lighting. From what I've read the LC-1 will let me plug a narrowband gauge into it. Once I find one that matches (possibly a Defi D) I can use that for immediate feedback and if it's running lean I can plug a laptop in and get a better idea of what is going on.

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

The LC-1 has the same outputs as the PLX, a narrow band output to simulate the stock O2 sensor output, and a wideband signal that you can feed into a standalone or datalogger. The LC-1 on it's own doesn't come with a gauge, but often times you do find it packaged with one. The PLX has a digital readout built into it.

Take a look at my interior... I just stuck the PLX on the right side of my center column... Temporary but still functional.

http://tooyoungto.servebeer.com/images/fc3s/interior

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

If you get back to me in near the end of Feb, I may have one of these available for ya!!

http://tooyoungto.servebeer.com/images/gauges

could be useful for a clean install with a wideband gauge????

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the offer, but I've got future gauge placement figured out...if/when I end up needing them. I've got my boost gauge on a single A pillar pod and can always make that a dual A pillar. Or use the single DIN slot between my aftermarket stereo and the ashtray.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The LC1 has a calibration feature that most other widebands don't have, so that the sensor will remain accurate longer than many other brands.

Stay away from the AEM. It is the easiest to install and use, but mine had a broken display and the idiot tech support people gave me the run around. Horrible support. Also the AEM has a notoriously poor 0-5v analog output signal if you ever want to use it with a standalone.

I would also forget messing with the cosmo AFM. save your money for Haltech or Power FC if you want a plug and play setup (AP Engineering version or Banzai Racing version).

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thank you for the post...I'm leaning heavily towards the LC-1. At $200 the price is near unbeatable. If I could find a used one that would be even better...though I guess a used one would probably need a replacement O2 sensor.

I've already got the Cosmo MAF on hand. It was one of the parts I collected along the way. It's just a matter of creating an adapter to mount it to the Apexi Powerwhateveritscalled intake. Though I get your point, if I go with engine management I'll switch to MAP...correct?

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

Just to let you know, the LC1 calibration feature is kind of un-needed. Each Bosch O2 sensor connector has a laser etched resistor which is calibrated to the sensor itself. The LC1 has a nasty habit of losing calibration for no reason at all then not being able to recalibrate until the O2 sensor has fully cooled down and your exhaust system has only AIR in it.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Interesting.....good to know about the LC1

Anybody have any feedback on secondary injectors? 720s and 850s are the advice I've gotten.

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I think 720's are the right way to go if you use the stock turbo. You can push a little more boost through without needing a fuel pressure regulator. For some reason I think 850's may give you too much fuel regardless of how much boost you run on the stock turbo.

Remember, even if you have enough fuel, the timing doesn't get retarded with additional boost over 12psi (I think) because the ecu isn't mapped for it. The results are even worse with a FCD which completely cuts the boost signal at around 8psi. The boost sensor which is what determines how much timing to pull back. So be sure to just back off the timing (at the crank angle sensor) if you plan to run more boost than you really should. It will give you less bottom end torque but your engine won't blow. I believe the accepted amount is 1 degree per pound of boost.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Before bed bump

680RWHP12A

with the stock turbo GSL-SE injectors will be pleanty, and later if you upgrade to a hybrid (larger turbo) you can use either an FMU of a r teck cu to add fuel, both work good and are inexpensive..

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

My noobishness has exposed itself can you explain "FMU of a r teck cu"?

I'll do a search of the site and find how much GSL-SE injectors put out CC wise. I found these on Ebay are these what you were referring to? Won't they be low impedence?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...2em118Q2el1247

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

While I'm on the noob topics anyway....for fuel injectors do I want peak/hold or saturated? Also on RC engineering's site I need to choose Denso or Bosch. I'll toss them an email, but figure if I ask here also maybe someone reading the thread will get the info they also need.

Anyone have a preference on brands?
If I buy new ones I'm leaning towards
1. RC Engineering 750cc http://www.rceng.com/Peak-Hold-Injec...top-P10C5.aspx
2. Sard 800cc thru RHD Japan https://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/SARD-80...Series-5-12679
3. Venom 720cc thru TLFperformanceparts on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Maz...2em118Q2el1247

Jager

iTrader: (10)

FMU = Fuel managment unit. I'm not sure the other one he's hinting too, maybe the Rtek ECU from http://www.digitaltuning.com?

GSL-SE injectors are low impedence 680CC.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

For an S5 you want high impedence, but honestly, I'm not familiar with S5's to give you a proper answer.

Good luck though, hopefully someone more knowledgable then I will chime in.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I just found the CC info and was going to post it. I'm not knowledgeable enough to swap low impedence for high impedence, so that option is probably out.

Last I checked Rtek didn't have anything available for S5 TII, only S5 N/A and S4 TII

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm leaning towards the RC Engineering injectors

I can pull my UIM and remove all my injectors, send 2 of them off to get cleaned and have them ship the new ones and my cleaned ones back to me. While that is going on I can replace the vacuum and fuel lines and replace the FC pump with the FD.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I happen to like my LC-1. Works great. I believe they still have a serial adapter? If you plan on hooking it into a laptop, you need a converter unless your laptop has a serial port.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

An adapter won't be a problem, I'm a computer junkie and probably have one lying around.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

What about a tuner in the Southern Indiana area. I don't trust myself to learn tuning and would rather pay someone to do it right.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Got my answer on peak/hold and saturated. RC Engineering has a nice little FAQ
Peak/Hold=low impedence
Saturate=high impedence

REnaissance_Sle7in

iTrader: (8)

Not to hijack the thread, but I am doing something very similar (and am also very noobish when it comes to swaps...and turbos in general) and I was just about to start a thread to ask this, but I'll just do it here...

JustJeff and Boost Lee: what all did you need to go out and get engine wise (TID, MAF, alternator, etc) that was not attached to the JDM engine? also, what is the bare mimimum I would need to get the car running savely? yes, I know what is all needed for the swap from the faq, but are FCDs, fuel comps, or a new fuel pump absolutely necessary? Fuel will be the first thing upgraded, but I just really need the car running ASAP

Boos Lee: is there any way I could PM you with some more questions (or anyone else) so I don't hijack the thread?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm leaving for work, but later tonight I can tell you what I needed. It'll somewhat depend on what you're getting with your JDM engine though.