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BELTS light remains on

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Old 07-12-07, 10:30 PM
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BELTS light remains on

on my 10AE, after i turn the engine off, the BELTS light in the warning light cluster remains on. its very dim and doesnt really effect the battery, but remain on and is annoying. any advice would be much appreciated.
Old 07-12-07, 10:57 PM
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This happend on a 88 tII that i owned. To the best of my knowledge, i think it turned out to be the body CPU.
Old 07-12-07, 11:25 PM
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the body cpu being bad or having bad solder joints??
Old 07-13-07, 01:38 AM
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There's also a switch in the seatbelt "acceptor".
It might be dirty.


-Ted
Old 07-13-07, 07:36 AM
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Since you mentioned it doesn't affect the battery, are you saying it stays on with the ignition off?

Maybe I read your post too many times, but the power to all the warning lights is supposed to be cut with the ignition off. I checked the wiring diagram just to be sure. The only thing that makes sense to me is that maybe the battery power source (for the clock) is somehow passing power via some gunk on the circuit board. Take out the idiot light cluster and clean the board and re-solder the pins from the plug.
Old 07-13-07, 09:44 AM
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correct, the light stays on with the ignition off. the light is dim, but its on. basically, you can only see it at night. i noticed it last night when i went in the car to get the owners manual out for some reading. i usually only drive the car in the day so i had never really noticed it. as Ted mentioned, i can take apart the seat belt recievers and clean the switch and contacts in there, maybe it'll help. its funny that my alarm is no longer working and this light is on. i'm thinking that its possible that they're related. who knows though.
Old 07-13-07, 09:44 PM
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any other thoughts on this?
Old 07-13-07, 09:57 PM
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Yes, the seat latch is only a grounding point which completes the circuit. When you latch the seat belt on, the tongue of the latch moves the contacts apart.

Your problem is some battery power making its way into a circuit that should only receive power with ign. on. Come to think of it, how are the CPU and warning light functions otherwise? Do the interior lights turn on when a door or the hatch are opened? Do you get the warning chime with key in ignition - door open? Lights on, door open chime? Belt chime when you turn ign. on without seat belt latched? Sometimes door switches or bad CPU soldering or warning light solder joints cause a bunch of unrelated-at-the-surface problems.
Old 07-13-07, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
There's also a switch in the seatbelt "acceptor".
It might be dirty.


-Ted
I'm with reted for once.

I spilled coffee down my seatbelt one time, I had to take the whole thing apart and clean it before that stupid light would go off.
Old 07-13-07, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos
Yes, the seat latch is only a grounding point which completes the circuit. When you latch the seat belt on, the tongue of the latch moves the contacts apart.

Your problem is some battery power making its way into a circuit that should only receive power with ign. on. Come to think of it, how are the CPU and warning light functions otherwise? Do the interior lights turn on when a door or the hatch are opened? Do you get the warning chime with key in ignition - door open? Lights on, door open chime? Belt chime when you turn ign. on without seat belt latched? Sometimes door switches or bad CPU soldering or warning light solder joints cause a bunch of unrelated-at-the-surface problems.
the warning lights work perfectly. the lights work fin on the interior of the car. i get a beeping with the key in the ignition once the engine has been turned off and the door is open, no lights on reminder chime or door chime. no over rev buzzer, maxed out oil pressure gauge when engine is running.
Old 07-13-07, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
I'm with reted for once.

I spilled coffee down my seatbelt one time, I had to take the whole thing apart and clean it before that stupid light would go off.
i can take it apart tomorrow and clean it and post back with the results. can't hurt to try.
Old 07-13-07, 10:46 PM
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Focus on the solder joints where the plug pins attach. Look for gunk or burned spots or any signs of malfunction.
Old 07-14-07, 05:34 AM
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ok, will do. if there are an y bad solder joints i'll remove the old solder and resolder in place of the old solder.
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