Before diving into uim removal...
01-09-10, 12:23 PM
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Before diving into uim removal...
My car has been for sale for about a month and I'm replacing my pd because its leaking. The uim has never been taken off. Because it's for sale, I'd rather not order a Haynes manual and I want to get this taken care of asap. The short instructions in the FSM are just that- short. Is it really that simple? Theres plenty of hoses all over I don't know which have gas or coolant or are just vacuum lines. Also, is the m12x1.25 banjo bolt something that I can find at a hardware or auto parts store?
01-09-10, 12:37 PM
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I don't think you'll find it at either store, but your best bet would be an auto parts store.
Just mark off which hoses go where. Better yet would be t snap a pic of the engine bay before you pull hoses.
Most will be vacuum lines. There are two fuel hoses attached to the fuel rails. There are two coolant lines to the throttle body. (They will have braided pattern on them and be thicker than the vacuum lines. They will also have clamps on them since the cooling system has pressure in it.)
Prepare a couple 8-10mm shaft thickness bolts for the coolant lines. Just pop them off and shove a bolt in there. Stops coolant from going everywhere.
Just mark off which hoses go where. Better yet would be t snap a pic of the engine bay before you pull hoses.
Most will be vacuum lines. There are two fuel hoses attached to the fuel rails. There are two coolant lines to the throttle body. (They will have braided pattern on them and be thicker than the vacuum lines. They will also have clamps on them since the cooling system has pressure in it.)
Prepare a couple 8-10mm shaft thickness bolts for the coolant lines. Just pop them off and shove a bolt in there. Stops coolant from going everywhere.
01-09-10, 02:50 PM
#3
Post #2 in the link below should help.
Also, remove plug to BAC and TPS. Of the two coolant hoses, one is on the back of throttle body and has foam sheathing or covering on it in two places while the other one connects to the BAC and comes from the top of the water pump housing. All of the vacuum hoses "should" be the same size except the vacuum spider hose located on the front and very top of the throttle body.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=remove+uim
Also, remove plug to BAC and TPS. Of the two coolant hoses, one is on the back of throttle body and has foam sheathing or covering on it in two places while the other one connects to the BAC and comes from the top of the water pump housing. All of the vacuum hoses "should" be the same size except the vacuum spider hose located on the front and very top of the throttle body.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=remove+uim
01-09-10, 07:55 PM
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You may also have to replace cracked/broken vacuum lines and/or oil metering lines. It's also a good time to clean the fuel injectors. You also need a replacement UIM gasket. The old one can be difficult to remove.
01-09-10, 08:14 PM
#6
These can be purchased at a local auto parts store such as O'reilly's. The hose measurement is 5/32 id ( inner diameter). Not counting the vacuum spider for the oil injectors, 15 feet will be sufficient to replace "all" and leave enough for mistakes with some room to spare. It would also be a good idea to clean up the ground wire connection.
01-09-10, 10:42 PM
#7
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
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01-10-10, 08:39 AM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
01-10-10, 10:37 AM
#9
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That bolt looks correct.
No sealant is required since the threads are straight metric threads and the fittings are sealed with the crush washers.
Why are you using a banjo bolt instead of just replacing the damper? This should be something disclosed to the buyer of the car.
As for manifold removal, the advice in this thread is good. Just make sure to label all wires and hoses so they go back in the correct location. You'll probably need a new 90 degree coolant hose so order that in advance. The UIM gasket material can be easily removed by using using a Scotch Brite pad in a drill (stuff some rags down the LIM first).
You might just want to buy a kit of vacuum hose since it's a good time to replace it all now.
No sealant is required since the threads are straight metric threads and the fittings are sealed with the crush washers.
Why are you using a banjo bolt instead of just replacing the damper? This should be something disclosed to the buyer of the car.
As for manifold removal, the advice in this thread is good. Just make sure to label all wires and hoses so they go back in the correct location. You'll probably need a new 90 degree coolant hose so order that in advance. The UIM gasket material can be easily removed by using using a Scotch Brite pad in a drill (stuff some rags down the LIM first).
You might just want to buy a kit of vacuum hose since it's a good time to replace it all now.
01-10-10, 02:27 PM
#11
thats like buying a ford explorer with Firestone tires, and then willingly get a new set of Firestone tires because it an oem suggestion.
also guys, dont forget about injector o rings or bungs.
also, be sure to be careful with those connectors. they will break.
the oil metering pump lines are color coded, make sure you know where they bolt to. the haynes or shop manual will telly you this.
but dont worry about it. the whole ordeal can be done in a weekend if you go slow.
01-10-10, 04:49 PM
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That bolt looks correct.
No sealant is required since the threads are straight metric threads and the fittings are sealed with the crush washers.
Why are you using a banjo bolt instead of just replacing the damper? This should be something disclosed to the buyer of the car.
As for manifold removal, the advice in this thread is good. Just make sure to label all wires and hoses so they go back in the correct location. You'll probably need a new 90 degree coolant hose so order that in advance. The UIM gasket material can be easily removed by using using a Scotch Brite pad in a drill (stuff some rags down the LIM first).
You might just want to buy a kit of vacuum hose since it's a good time to replace it all now.
No sealant is required since the threads are straight metric threads and the fittings are sealed with the crush washers.
Why are you using a banjo bolt instead of just replacing the damper? This should be something disclosed to the buyer of the car.
As for manifold removal, the advice in this thread is good. Just make sure to label all wires and hoses so they go back in the correct location. You'll probably need a new 90 degree coolant hose so order that in advance. The UIM gasket material can be easily removed by using using a Scotch Brite pad in a drill (stuff some rags down the LIM first).
You might just want to buy a kit of vacuum hose since it's a good time to replace it all now.
01-10-10, 06:16 PM
#13
aaron, with all do respect, not many people want to buy one, or have the notion of buying one.
thats like buying a ford explorer with Firestone tires, and then willingly get a new set of Firestone tires because it an oem suggestion.
also guys, dont forget about injector o rings or bungs.
also, be sure to be careful with those connectors. they will break.
the oil metering pump lines are color coded, make sure you know where they bolt to. the haynes or shop manual will telly you this.
but dont worry about it. the whole ordeal can be done in a weekend if you go slow.
thats like buying a ford explorer with Firestone tires, and then willingly get a new set of Firestone tires because it an oem suggestion.
also guys, dont forget about injector o rings or bungs.
also, be sure to be careful with those connectors. they will break.
the oil metering pump lines are color coded, make sure you know where they bolt to. the haynes or shop manual will telly you this.
but dont worry about it. the whole ordeal can be done in a weekend if you go slow.
I think with the tire analogy it would be like your tires wearing out and replacing them with some cheap walmart tires that aren't the right size. As opposed to putting some 65-70k mile tires that will last for a long time.
I can completely understand why the OP is doing the banjo fix but I wouldn't do it for a permanent fix in my own car. The pulsation damper serves a purpose unlike some of the parts on the car. I believe you could get an after market fpr though.
01-10-10, 10:47 PM
#14
It's always a great debate on rx7 club about wether the pd bolt mod is a bad thing or a good thing.
I'm confident if the entire fuel system is in good order (no cracked/jank *** hoses or clamps, good injectors with good grommets/o-rings) then the banjo bolt mod wont hurt anything.
A $10 fix that hasn't shown any ill effects seems to be a good alternative to paying $100+ for a piece of plastic that is in contact with fuel that is close enough to the exhaust manifold to make me uneasy.
I'm confident if the entire fuel system is in good order (no cracked/jank *** hoses or clamps, good injectors with good grommets/o-rings) then the banjo bolt mod wont hurt anything.
A $10 fix that hasn't shown any ill effects seems to be a good alternative to paying $100+ for a piece of plastic that is in contact with fuel that is close enough to the exhaust manifold to make me uneasy.
01-31-10, 06:45 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
Also doing the banjo bolt mod in my car VERY shortly as well as putting new o rings and grommets on the injectors. Same boat as you but i have a haynes.
Can anyone veryfi if the bolt in the link above will be proper for the application and would anerobic sealant be suitable for the threads that go into the rail?
02-01-10, 05:55 PM
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02-01-10, 06:03 PM
#19
I'm still doing the banjo bolt but I'm just saying that the one in that link above is the wrong one. you need the one with no female port. I just ordered this one. I just ordered this one it should work. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EA...5&autoview=sku
02-01-10, 08:42 PM
#21
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._dampener.html
this was enough motivation for me to swap it.
RX-7s made during this time frame had a small round device on the primary(lower) fuel rail called a pulsation dampner, or PD or FPD for short. Often these fail allowing raw fuel to be shot out, which then runs down the side of the engine onto the hot exhaust manifold. Many junkyard rx-7s died a fiery death because of this, and many owners have had their cars catch fire spontaneously due to this. IF you remove the yellow plastic cap and find that the screw has come out and is laying in the cap, your PD is ready to fail and must be replaced. FC turbo model shown, the PD on nonturbo engines is on the front of the lower rail, behind the alternator.
02-02-10, 07:40 PM
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Did you replace any secondary fuel injector grommets when you pulled off the uim or did you leave those alone? Did you find it easy to remove the injector clips? How did you go about removing the gasket under the uim? Did you drain the engine of coolant before removing the necessary coolant hoses or did you just try to catch it as you removed the hoses.
02-03-10, 12:30 AM
#23
My pd was on its way out... I'd drive to the gas station buy a cigar come home smoke the 'gar in front of my 7 and it would taste like gas...I always thought they were selling me gas tasteing cigars.. quick lil banjo bolt change no more gas smell comin from my 7...
Oo yea why don't yall use the banjo bolt from oppsite side of the primary rail... that's what I used works perfect.. Find one in a junk yard..
Oo yea why don't yall use the banjo bolt from oppsite side of the primary rail... that's what I used works perfect.. Find one in a junk yard..
02-03-10, 05:26 AM
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My pd was on its way out... I'd drive to the gas station buy a cigar come home smoke the 'gar in front of my 7 and it would taste like gas...I always thought they were selling me gas tasteing cigars.. quick lil banjo bolt change no more gas smell comin from my 7...
Oo yea why don't yall use the banjo bolt from oppsite side of the primary rail... that's what I used works perfect.. Find one in a junk yard..
Oo yea why don't yall use the banjo bolt from oppsite side of the primary rail... that's what I used works perfect.. Find one in a junk yard..
05-14-10, 05:54 PM
#25
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that is a great link with lots of motivation, I am doing the banjo bolt this weekend, instead of paying $100+ for the FPD and $200 for labor, it will only cost me $15 for the bolt and mid and upper intake gaskets total. my FC smells like a gas station too.