Been testing all morning and still no idea what to do, no start thread; please help.
04-12-11, 11:28 AM
#1
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Been testing all morning and still no idea what to do, no start thread; please help.
A while back I was playing with some things.
Went to start the car and the tach died and the car just cranked and cranked.
Checked spark... none.
Checked coils... good.
Checked to see if I fried the ecu... no.
Main relay... good.
starter cut relay .. good.
Oh, and I triple checked all the fuses...
I noticed I've got no power to the radio when the key is set to ACC.
Checked my voltage on the ignition switch.
I've got nothing on the red wire and the black wire at the center of the ignition switch.
Where do I go from here?
I've been reading all day and my brain wants to quit working, but I really want to know what parts to order today...
From what I've seen on the forum I'm not getting power to my engine fuse row since I've got no power to either of those wires on the ignition switch.
When it first happened I thought I blew my 15A engine fuse.. so this makes sense...
But how do I find out if it is a problem with my ignition switch or somewhere else?
Please help, I'm taking a pizza and beer break because my brain is mad at me.
Went to start the car and the tach died and the car just cranked and cranked.
Checked spark... none.
Checked coils... good.
Checked to see if I fried the ecu... no.
Main relay... good.
starter cut relay .. good.
Oh, and I triple checked all the fuses...
I noticed I've got no power to the radio when the key is set to ACC.
Checked my voltage on the ignition switch.
I've got nothing on the red wire and the black wire at the center of the ignition switch.
Where do I go from here?
I've been reading all day and my brain wants to quit working, but I really want to know what parts to order today...
From what I've seen on the forum I'm not getting power to my engine fuse row since I've got no power to either of those wires on the ignition switch.
When it first happened I thought I blew my 15A engine fuse.. so this makes sense...
But how do I find out if it is a problem with my ignition switch or somewhere else?
Please help, I'm taking a pizza and beer break because my brain is mad at me.
04-12-11, 11:54 AM
#2
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: I checked my 15A engine fuse and it was showing that it had power.
I was checking the fuses in the engine bay and my the location for the egi fuse was showing voltage on both sides.
I'm new to electronics but all the other fuses had volts on one side and nothing on the other.
Having 12v on one blade and 1v on the other side would indicate a short somewhere in that circuit correct?
I was checking the fuses in the engine bay and my the location for the egi fuse was showing voltage on both sides.
I'm new to electronics but all the other fuses had volts on one side and nothing on the other.
Having 12v on one blade and 1v on the other side would indicate a short somewhere in that circuit correct?
04-12-11, 03:06 PM
#3
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update Update: I just was checking the CAS again and noticed the plug didn't seem to be connected all the way when I put it back on. There was a piece of plastic down inside the plug that was keeping it from being connected all the way.
The battery doesn't have enough juice for me to crank the car, and I think that the piece of plastic fell in the plug when I took them apart to test again.
But, on the off chance it was already down there and is the reason my car was acting dumb..
I'll update and let everyone know of my stupidity.
Fingers crossed.
The battery doesn't have enough juice for me to crank the car, and I think that the piece of plastic fell in the plug when I took them apart to test again.
But, on the off chance it was already down there and is the reason my car was acting dumb..
I'll update and let everyone know of my stupidity.
Fingers crossed.
04-12-11, 06:25 PM
#5
Rotary Freak
The fuses in the engine bay fuse box...................the forward socket on each fuse should show power and the rear socket of the fuse no power...until you install the fuse and then the fuse passes power from the fwd socket to the rear socket.
04-12-11, 06:34 PM
#6
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If the Black wire leading to the ignition switch pigtail doesn't have constant voltage then you need to see if voltage is coming from the the Main fuse in the engine fuse box, so there should be voltage on both wires leading to and from the Main fuse.
The fuses in the engine bay fuse box...................the forward socket on each fuse should show power and the rear socket of the fuse no power...until you install the fuse and then the fuse passes power from the fwd socket to the rear socket.
04-12-11, 06:40 PM
#8
Rotary Freak
The large WHITE/RED wire in the middle of the ignition switch is the power wire that feeds power to the other wires in the switch when the key is turned to certain positions.
No power on the white/red?????? Do like Satch said.
Power for the white/red comes from a pure black wire at the pigtail connector for the ignition switch. You need to go to and find the ignitoin switch pigtail connectors about a foot fwd of the ignition switch itself.
THERE you will find the white/red wire AT the ignition switch itself is connected to a pure black wire in the FRONT harness. That pure black wire gets fed from a connector in the engine bay about a half foot below and inboard of the engine bay fuse box. See my second jpg for that single wire connector. Make sure its connected.
The black wire in turn is fed from the MAIN FUSE in the center of the engine bay fuse box. The black wire is connected to the engine bay fuse box at the rear of the box and by a 10mm socket size bolt IF memory serves.
No power at the white/red in the center of the ignition switch means ain't nothing important a gonna work til you power it up via the pure black wire I just mentioned.
If one jumpers the white/red wire to the large Black/Red (not that skinny black/red in the attached jpg but the large black/red just behind the white/red wire in the jpg) then the starter should spin IF the white/red has power on it.
The skinney black/red is of no use at all and if it has power on it ...who cares. It's just power for the igniton key light or some bs function and is useless. Yours probably has power on it but take no note of that or even care if it does.
No power on the white/red?????? Do like Satch said.
Power for the white/red comes from a pure black wire at the pigtail connector for the ignition switch. You need to go to and find the ignitoin switch pigtail connectors about a foot fwd of the ignition switch itself.
THERE you will find the white/red wire AT the ignition switch itself is connected to a pure black wire in the FRONT harness. That pure black wire gets fed from a connector in the engine bay about a half foot below and inboard of the engine bay fuse box. See my second jpg for that single wire connector. Make sure its connected.
The black wire in turn is fed from the MAIN FUSE in the center of the engine bay fuse box. The black wire is connected to the engine bay fuse box at the rear of the box and by a 10mm socket size bolt IF memory serves.
No power at the white/red in the center of the ignition switch means ain't nothing important a gonna work til you power it up via the pure black wire I just mentioned.
If one jumpers the white/red wire to the large Black/Red (not that skinny black/red in the attached jpg but the large black/red just behind the white/red wire in the jpg) then the starter should spin IF the white/red has power on it.
The skinney black/red is of no use at all and if it has power on it ...who cares. It's just power for the igniton key light or some bs function and is useless. Yours probably has power on it but take no note of that or even care if it does.
04-12-11, 08:30 PM
#9
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The large WHITE/RED wire in the middle of the ignition switch is the power wire that feeds power to the other wires in the switch when the key is turned to certain positions.
No power on the white/red?????? Do like Satch said.
Power for the white/red comes from a pure black wire at the pigtail connector for the ignition switch. You need to go to and find the ignitoin switch pigtail connectors about a foot fwd of the ignition switch itself.
THERE you will find the white/red wire AT the ignition switch itself is connected to a pure black wire in the FRONT harness. That pure black wire gets fed from a connector in the engine bay about a half foot below and inboard of the engine bay fuse box. See my second jpg for that single wire connector. Make sure its connected.
The black wire in turn is fed from the MAIN FUSE in the center of the engine bay fuse box. The black wire is connected to the engine bay fuse box at the rear of the box and by a 10mm socket size bolt IF memory serves.
No power at the white/red in the center of the ignition switch means ain't nothing important a gonna work til you power it up via the pure black wire I just mentioned.
If one jumpers the white/red wire to the large Black/Red (not that skinny black/red in the attached jpg but the large black/red just behind the white/red wire in the jpg) then the starter should spin IF the white/red has power on it.
The skinney black/red is of no use at all and if it has power on it ...who cares. It's just power for the igniton key light or some bs function and is useless. Yours probably has power on it but take no note of that or even care if it does.
No power on the white/red?????? Do like Satch said.
Power for the white/red comes from a pure black wire at the pigtail connector for the ignition switch. You need to go to and find the ignitoin switch pigtail connectors about a foot fwd of the ignition switch itself.
THERE you will find the white/red wire AT the ignition switch itself is connected to a pure black wire in the FRONT harness. That pure black wire gets fed from a connector in the engine bay about a half foot below and inboard of the engine bay fuse box. See my second jpg for that single wire connector. Make sure its connected.
The black wire in turn is fed from the MAIN FUSE in the center of the engine bay fuse box. The black wire is connected to the engine bay fuse box at the rear of the box and by a 10mm socket size bolt IF memory serves.
No power at the white/red in the center of the ignition switch means ain't nothing important a gonna work til you power it up via the pure black wire I just mentioned.
If one jumpers the white/red wire to the large Black/Red (not that skinny black/red in the attached jpg but the large black/red just behind the white/red wire in the jpg) then the starter should spin IF the white/red has power on it.
The skinney black/red is of no use at all and if it has power on it ...who cares. It's just power for the igniton key light or some bs function and is useless. Yours probably has power on it but take no note of that or even care if it does.
I think the connector is connected, but I will double check and make sure.
I'll also try what you said and let you know if the starter spins or not.
Thanks.
I'm really running out of ideas short of replacing the wiring harness.
04-12-11, 08:51 PM
#10
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, I checked the voltage again and I do have power going to the white/red wire.
I don't have voltage to the skinny black and the skinny black/red.
That connector was also plugged in.....
Any idea where to start looking next?
I don't have voltage to the skinny black and the skinny black/red.
That connector was also plugged in.....
Any idea where to start looking next?
04-13-11, 09:01 AM
#11
If you have voltage on the Black wire (Front harness) to the W/R wire (ignition pigtail) then disconnect the plugs to the the ignition pigtail which are connected to the front harness that features the Blue wire in a plug w/Black/Red wire and disconnect the single wire plug of the front harness that connects to the ignition pigtail which has a Black/Red wire. Then turn the key to ACC and check which wire in the ignition pigtail has voltage besides the White/Red wire and then do the same thing w/key to on and then w/key to start.
04-13-11, 10:55 AM
#12
Rotary Freak
Also look at these two jpg and the words on them.
I rarely use these wires and their colors because the wire colors CHANGE on a couple of them at the wire connectors a foot fwd of the switch and that causes confusion.
But if you get a jumper wire and jumper b/t the wires I show, certain items should work. That's IF the WHITE/RED has usable power on it coming from the engine bay.
If I got some of this wrong........someone tell me. I didn't go back check it.
I rarely use these wires and their colors because the wire colors CHANGE on a couple of them at the wire connectors a foot fwd of the switch and that causes confusion.
But if you get a jumper wire and jumper b/t the wires I show, certain items should work. That's IF the WHITE/RED has usable power on it coming from the engine bay.
If I got some of this wrong........someone tell me. I didn't go back check it.
04-13-11, 11:14 AM
#13
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also look at these two jpg and the words on them.
I rarely use these wires and their colors because the wire colors CHANGE on a couple of them at the wire connectors a foot fwd of the switch and that causes confusion.
But if you get a jumper wire and jumper b/t the wires I show, certain items should work. That's IF the WHITE/RED has usable power on it coming from the engine bay.
If I got some of this wrong........someone tell me. I didn't go back check it.
I rarely use these wires and their colors because the wire colors CHANGE on a couple of them at the wire connectors a foot fwd of the switch and that causes confusion.
But if you get a jumper wire and jumper b/t the wires I show, certain items should work. That's IF the WHITE/RED has usable power on it coming from the engine bay.
If I got some of this wrong........someone tell me. I didn't go back check it.
Also, those .jpgs look right as I jumpered a few of them and they did what you list.
I've got power to everything in the car that I have checked so far; until I crank the engine over.
The resistances on both the coil packs are good so I guess when I crank it something is killing the power to them? since I have no spark?
All my fuses are good; tested them with a fuse tester.
Nothing on the ignition switch would cause this.... right?
04-13-11, 12:38 PM
#14
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After a lot of searching today I think I've verified that it was my ecu not sending out the REF? voltage to my sensors. They were only getting 1v instead of the 5v that it says they should.
However, I had hacked up the wiring to my MOP already so I've hot wired the brown/? wire that sends the voltage to the sensors. My battery is too dead to rotate the engine enough to start.
However, when I cranked it for a second or two I did see that my tach is working again.
I am crossing my fingers that 1) I won't destroy any of my sensors doing this. 2) It actually will start and run this way.
I've already ordered an ecu but I need something to drive to work and back. (Only 5 miles).
However, I had hacked up the wiring to my MOP already so I've hot wired the brown/? wire that sends the voltage to the sensors. My battery is too dead to rotate the engine enough to start.
However, when I cranked it for a second or two I did see that my tach is working again.
I am crossing my fingers that 1) I won't destroy any of my sensors doing this. 2) It actually will start and run this way.
I've already ordered an ecu but I need something to drive to work and back. (Only 5 miles).
04-13-11, 01:37 PM
#15
Rotary Freak
That brown/white wire is what you say, its the ref voltage OUTPUT from the ECU to several sensors. IF one of the brown/white wires is grounded by mistake or the sensor it's connected to is dragging down the ref voltage output.........then as you say the car won't start. That ref voltage is used internally in the ECU and is required to produce spark/fuel injector action etc.
What usually gets destroyed is the ECU itself and you'll never ever get spark again out of it. But your lucky and still can get spark so the engine should start. You need to repair of fix that wiring to the OMP right or sooner than later you'll destroy the device inside the ECU that created the 5vdc ref voltage. Sounds like your on the way to fixing the car.
What usually gets destroyed is the ECU itself and you'll never ever get spark again out of it. But your lucky and still can get spark so the engine should start. You need to repair of fix that wiring to the OMP right or sooner than later you'll destroy the device inside the ECU that created the 5vdc ref voltage. Sounds like your on the way to fixing the car.
04-13-11, 02:13 PM
#16
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That brown/white wire is what you say, its the ref voltage OUTPUT from the ECU to several sensors. IF one of the brown/white wires is grounded by mistake or the sensor it's connected to is dragging down the ref voltage output.........then as you say the car won't start. That ref voltage is used internally in the ECU and is required to produce spark/fuel injector action etc.
What usually gets destroyed is the ECU itself and you'll never ever get spark again out of it. But your lucky and still can get spark so the engine should start. You need to repair of fix that wiring to the OMP right or sooner than later you'll destroy the device inside the ECU that created the 5vdc ref voltage. Sounds like your on the way to fixing the car.
What usually gets destroyed is the ECU itself and you'll never ever get spark again out of it. But your lucky and still can get spark so the engine should start. You need to repair of fix that wiring to the OMP right or sooner than later you'll destroy the device inside the ECU that created the 5vdc ref voltage. Sounds like your on the way to fixing the car.
I made that post. I checked the ref voltage pin at the ecu and it is showing .96.
I checked all the sensors I can see and they all show .96.
I've unplugged them one at a time and checked and it won't make a difference in the voltage.
When somebody showed up to jump my car, it was the same.
No movement from the tach and no spark as well.
Is there a list somewhere of all the sensors that could drag down the ref voltage?
I checked the tps, omp, pressure sensor, cas, and the afm.
I think I'm missing a few. I'll check out the FSM some more.
I've got a feeling all this testing is just a waste of time and I need to wait on my ecu.
But... I'm going to search for a list and probably test a few more things.
I'm refusing to say it is the ecu because all the fried ecu's I've seen are black on both sides of the circuit board.
I've just got a huge dark/white spot on one side.
04-13-11, 03:20 PM
#17
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Disregard the previous about the REF voltage; I didn't have the egi fuse in.
With the egi fuse in I do have exactly 5v on the ecu pin and all of the sensors.
Where do I start looking from here.
Everything is good, but yet for some reason when I crank it over I have no spark at all....
I'm sure I'm missing something but.... I'm clueless...
With the egi fuse in I do have exactly 5v on the ecu pin and all of the sensors.
Where do I start looking from here.
Everything is good, but yet for some reason when I crank it over I have no spark at all....
I'm sure I'm missing something but.... I'm clueless...
04-13-11, 03:44 PM
#18
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: I was checking the pins and noticed that I'm getting a little under 5v at the ecu on pins 3E 3G and 3H which are the pins for the CAS; they are all supposed to be below 1v with the key on. Would this indicate a short in the wiring between the CAS (cas tested good) and the ecu or would it be a problem with the ecu?
04-13-11, 05:46 PM
#19
Rotary Freak
That sounds peculiar. Are the elect plugs on (connected to) the ECU when you do this? and your backprobing those wires, right?
The FSM shows the plugs from the back of the plug where the wires enter the elect plug and you read from the rear of the plug from Right TO Left in a up/down fashion.
On your series FIVE car the wires from the CAS are a straight run from the CAS to the ECU plug. It's the CAS that outputs a voltage TO the ECU. Thats what the word INPUT at the top of my second jpg is getting at where it shows if the pin is a INPUT or a OUTPUT. So a CAS sitting still can't output 5vdc ever. Can't happen.
Pin 2I (two eye) should show approx 5vdc when the key is to ON, engine OFF. Should be a brown/white wire. Gotta back probe the wire with the connector on the ECU
Ever take a spare CAS and connect it to the harness .........put the key to ON........then spin the bottom gear on the CAS and listen for spark clicking and injector clicking sounds? If you hear those items then there is spark.
When you put the key ON do you hear the main relay click? If not then ENGINE fuse or the EGI fuse might be blown. IF the tach needle makes one twitch when the key is put to ON.........most likely those fuses are good and powered up.
The FSM shows the plugs from the back of the plug where the wires enter the elect plug and you read from the rear of the plug from Right TO Left in a up/down fashion.
On your series FIVE car the wires from the CAS are a straight run from the CAS to the ECU plug. It's the CAS that outputs a voltage TO the ECU. Thats what the word INPUT at the top of my second jpg is getting at where it shows if the pin is a INPUT or a OUTPUT. So a CAS sitting still can't output 5vdc ever. Can't happen.
Pin 2I (two eye) should show approx 5vdc when the key is to ON, engine OFF. Should be a brown/white wire. Gotta back probe the wire with the connector on the ECU
Ever take a spare CAS and connect it to the harness .........put the key to ON........then spin the bottom gear on the CAS and listen for spark clicking and injector clicking sounds? If you hear those items then there is spark.
When you put the key ON do you hear the main relay click? If not then ENGINE fuse or the EGI fuse might be blown. IF the tach needle makes one twitch when the key is put to ON.........most likely those fuses are good and powered up.
04-13-11, 06:41 PM
#20
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That sounds peculiar. Are the elect plugs on (connected to) the ECU when you do this? and your backprobing those wires, right?
The FSM shows the plugs from the back of the plug where the wires enter the elect plug and you read from the rear of the plug from Right TO Left in a up/down fashion.
On your series FIVE car the wires from the CAS are a straight run from the CAS to the ECU plug. It's the CAS that outputs a voltage TO the ECU. Thats what the word INPUT at the top of my second jpg is getting at where it shows if the pin is a INPUT or a OUTPUT. So a CAS sitting still can't output 5vdc ever. Can't happen.
Pin 2I (two eye) should show approx 5vdc when the key is to ON, engine OFF. Should be a brown/white wire. Gotta back probe the wire with the connector on the ECU
Ever take a spare CAS and connect it to the harness .........put the key to ON........then spin the bottom gear on the CAS and listen for spark clicking and injector clicking sounds? If you hear those items then there is spark.
When you put the key ON do you hear the main relay click? If not then ENGINE fuse or the EGI fuse might be blown. IF the tach needle makes one twitch when the key is put to ON.........most likely those fuses are good and powered up.
The FSM shows the plugs from the back of the plug where the wires enter the elect plug and you read from the rear of the plug from Right TO Left in a up/down fashion.
On your series FIVE car the wires from the CAS are a straight run from the CAS to the ECU plug. It's the CAS that outputs a voltage TO the ECU. Thats what the word INPUT at the top of my second jpg is getting at where it shows if the pin is a INPUT or a OUTPUT. So a CAS sitting still can't output 5vdc ever. Can't happen.
Pin 2I (two eye) should show approx 5vdc when the key is to ON, engine OFF. Should be a brown/white wire. Gotta back probe the wire with the connector on the ECU
Ever take a spare CAS and connect it to the harness .........put the key to ON........then spin the bottom gear on the CAS and listen for spark clicking and injector clicking sounds? If you hear those items then there is spark.
When you put the key ON do you hear the main relay click? If not then ENGINE fuse or the EGI fuse might be blown. IF the tach needle makes one twitch when the key is put to ON.........most likely those fuses are good and powered up.
I had a friend put the key to ON and heard the main relay click. I also get the tach needle to twitch when the key is put to on.
If the CAS can't output 5v ever then I'm not for sure what is going on..
The cas resistance tests are good.
I'm not getting spark for sure as I checked the spark three different ways.
Is it possible that the ecu has a short and is causing the voltage to leak over to the other pins?
My uncle is an electrician and said that some of the corrosion on the board could be the cause.
EDIT: I double checked the voltage on the prongs for the CAS.
With the CAS plugged in and the key "on" they see 4-5v
With the CAS unplugged they see 1.5-2v
I checked the "ground" pins beside the CAS pins and I noticed that one of them
"3A" had a little more than 5v on it.
It is a ground and is supposed to have 0v.
Last edited by slitherz90gxl; 04-13-11 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Checked something, reporting back. Can't solve problem on my own. Nobody near here will touch my car. :'(
04-13-11, 07:23 PM
#21
Rotary Freak
Write back and tell me what the colors of 3E, 3G and 3H are at the ECU plug. Your reading the voltage on these wires with the plug attached to the ECU, right?
Is your battery neg cable going WHERE? one end on the batt neg and the other attached to the starter long bolt OR one of the transmission/engine attach bolts. Plus a small cable off that large neg cable goes to a location just a foot or so below the left front strut tower.
Could be the ground wire for the ECU that is located on the ENGINE is not in place???? ECU won't operate unless the gnd wire is attached to or grounded to the engine/chassis. I think on a series five that gnd wire is black/white and located??? i don't have a series five so can't say exactly. This could be your problem. The ground wires for the ECU's guts isn't there. The ECU has power but no return to ground? Might be that.
Is your battery neg cable going WHERE? one end on the batt neg and the other attached to the starter long bolt OR one of the transmission/engine attach bolts. Plus a small cable off that large neg cable goes to a location just a foot or so below the left front strut tower.
Could be the ground wire for the ECU that is located on the ENGINE is not in place???? ECU won't operate unless the gnd wire is attached to or grounded to the engine/chassis. I think on a series five that gnd wire is black/white and located??? i don't have a series five so can't say exactly. This could be your problem. The ground wires for the ECU's guts isn't there. The ECU has power but no return to ground? Might be that.
04-13-11, 07:28 PM
#22
Rotary Freak
3A, 3B, 3C and 3D are all ECU grounds so pull the elct plug off the ECU and probe those wires and have the meter on ohms and not volts. Those wires should read/????? 0.1 to 0.4 ohms give or take a tiny bit here and there.
If they all read .1-.4 ohms that is not the problem. Meter on ohms.
KEY OFF when you do that, please. NO key ON.
If they all read .1-.4 ohms that is not the problem. Meter on ohms.
KEY OFF when you do that, please. NO key ON.
04-13-11, 07:39 PM
#23
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3A, 3B, 3C and 3D are all ECU grounds so pull the elct plug off the ECU and probe those wires and have the meter on ohms and not volts. Those wires should read/????? 0.1 to 0.4 ohms give or take a tiny bit here and there.
If they all read .1-.4 ohms that is not the problem. Meter on ohms.
KEY OFF when you do that, please. NO key ON.
If they all read .1-.4 ohms that is not the problem. Meter on ohms.
KEY OFF when you do that, please. NO key ON.
I'll check the ohms right now and write down the colors for the other wires.
Also, the ecu ground is good.
I checked it earlier. =/
04-13-11, 08:13 PM
#24
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The wire colors for 3E, 3G, and 3H are red blue white; I'm not for sure if the colors are in the right order but they all have 5v.
The grounds all ohm at or around .4ohm but it was hard to get an accurate reading.
I'll try again in the morning because one of them would show .4 and then 1.8 etc etc.
The grounds all ohm at or around .4ohm but it was hard to get an accurate reading.
I'll try again in the morning because one of them would show .4 and then 1.8 etc etc.
04-14-11, 02:04 PM
#25
Resident Rotard
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, I did the CAS test where you spin the lower gear and listen for injectors clicking/see spark with the key on. I didn't hear/feel my injectors clicking or see/hear any spark.
Last night I re-did the ground on the ecu that was showing a little less than 5v on it.
It lowered the voltage reading on the CAS pins on the ecu.
But now I'm not getting the REF voltage.
I hooked the factory ecu ground back up to the ecu and the REF voltage still wasn't there.
(.06v)
I'm still trying to buy another s5 ecu to see if it is the ecu; even though there is only one small burn in the left corner of the circuit board (minus the corrosion where the omp pins are on the left).
Nothing makes sense to me on this to be honest.
If the ecu doesn't fix it, I'm not for sure where to start looking.
Last night I re-did the ground on the ecu that was showing a little less than 5v on it.
It lowered the voltage reading on the CAS pins on the ecu.
But now I'm not getting the REF voltage.
I hooked the factory ecu ground back up to the ecu and the REF voltage still wasn't there.
(.06v)
I'm still trying to buy another s5 ecu to see if it is the ecu; even though there is only one small burn in the left corner of the circuit board (minus the corrosion where the omp pins are on the left).
Nothing makes sense to me on this to be honest.
If the ecu doesn't fix it, I'm not for sure where to start looking.