Battery wiring.
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sun Diego
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Battery wiring.
Alright so basically my ground wires to my battery terminals are messed up. the bolt nut is stripped from i don't know how. and the rubber around them has a small tear in it. i was just wondering if its hard to replace the wires and if i should use any specific brand when i get new ones?
#2
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
I did this when I dropped in my new motor. It might be a little painful to do with the engine in, but this mostly depends if you have AC and PS still. I just went to the autoparts store and got 2 48" or 52" dont recall exactly lengths of 2 gauge battery cable wire. Get a black one for negative and a red for positive. For the positive one make sure to get one with the extra wire coming out of the terminal with a butt splice connedtor because you need to connect this to the main fuse. You might want to buy a roll of 2 of electrical tape and some loom because you will have to tear the stock tape loom off.
#6
Lives on the Forum
He may be a commercial electrician...In normal 120v house wiring, the black is hot
On chassis grounded vehicles, or other DC systems however, red is always positive (or "hot", if you will), as far as I'm concerned...
Honda Dude, how's that car coming along?
On chassis grounded vehicles, or other DC systems however, red is always positive (or "hot", if you will), as far as I'm concerned...
Honda Dude, how's that car coming along?
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sun Diego
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the crash course on colors. red to me has always been like negative since i always saw it on my test papers back in the day of education, hah
Trending Topics
#8
Lives on the Forum
Just replace the terminals - it's easier.
Trying to replace the existing wiring might cause more trouble.
There are retrofit battery terminals that allow you to cut the lead crimped stock battery terminals and bolt on the new ones.
-Ted
Trying to replace the existing wiring might cause more trouble.
There are retrofit battery terminals that allow you to cut the lead crimped stock battery terminals and bolt on the new ones.
-Ted
#9
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Originally Posted by RETed
There are retrofit battery terminals that allow you to cut the lead crimped stock battery terminals and bolt on the new ones.
-Ted
-Ted
#10
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I have found the brass wrap-around plated terminals more durable & reliable.
Even Wal-Mart has them now.
To be reliable, you should solder the wire to the lug. (I used a butane mini tourch.)
Even Wal-Mart has them now.
To be reliable, you should solder the wire to the lug. (I used a butane mini tourch.)
#11
spending too much money..
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
He may be a commercial electrician...In normal 120v house wiring, the black is hot
On chassis grounded vehicles, or other DC systems however, red is always positive (or "hot", if you will), as far as I'm concerned...
Honda Dude, how's that car coming along?
On chassis grounded vehicles, or other DC systems however, red is always positive (or "hot", if you will), as far as I'm concerned...
Honda Dude, how's that car coming along?
#12
Lives on the Forum
Lol, hijack...
Our cars are never done, that's what keeps us going
Good to hear you haven't blown anything up yet. They have meets in Houston, but I try to stay out of the city. If I were to break down, I'd be lost, because I don't speak the native language, lol...
Our cars are never done, that's what keeps us going
Good to hear you haven't blown anything up yet. They have meets in Houston, but I try to stay out of the city. If I were to break down, I'd be lost, because I don't speak the native language, lol...
#14
spending too much money..
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Lol, hijack...
Our cars are never done, that's what keeps us going
Good to hear you haven't blown anything up yet. They have meets in Houston, but I try to stay out of the city. If I were to break down, I'd be lost, because I don't speak the native language, lol...
Our cars are never done, that's what keeps us going
Good to hear you haven't blown anything up yet. They have meets in Houston, but I try to stay out of the city. If I were to break down, I'd be lost, because I don't speak the native language, lol...
#15
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Originally Posted by RETed
Just replace the terminals - it's easier.
Trying to replace the existing wiring might cause more trouble.
There are retrofit battery terminals that allow you to cut the lead crimped stock battery terminals and bolt on the new ones.
-Ted
Trying to replace the existing wiring might cause more trouble.
There are retrofit battery terminals that allow you to cut the lead crimped stock battery terminals and bolt on the new ones.
-Ted
#16
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Ground is different then negative. Negative refers to a voltage below ground. But many people use the terms interchangably because they simply don't know.
In electronics, red is normally positive, brown or green is ground, and black is negative.
In electronics, red is normally positive, brown or green is ground, and black is negative.
#17
Lives on the Forum
Don't confuse the guys with sine wave theory, Aaron, lol...All "negative" voltage is in that case is current flowing the other way (just as in your house wiring- where ground and common (or neutral) are both at the same potential)...It's all relative, just like time and the speed of light
#22
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
I originally was going to do this but figured it wouldnt be too difficult to unwrap the harness and retape everything. What I also did was cut the extra stock ground from the negative battery to the driverside shock tower and bolted it to the negative battery terminal in addition to a grounding kit.
Um, this doesn't isolate the battery terminal(s) themselves, since corrosion can impede conductivity *inside* the battery terminal itself.
-Ted
#23
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
I meant unwrap the actually battery cables from the rest of the electrical harness that runs along the driverside to the firewall and then retape the wires that were originally wrapped up along with the stock battery cables. Maybe I worded something wrong but I used brand new battery cables from terminals to the other end.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FC3S Timmy
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
16
10-03-15 01:08 AM
FC3S Timmy
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
8
10-02-15 08:08 AM