Battery tray and tie-downs
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Why aluminium?
My steel box weighs under 3 LBs and is much stronger and easier to fabricate:

Battery straps not shown.
My steel box weighs under 3 LBs and is much stronger and easier to fabricate:

Battery straps not shown.
well, my battery box weighs much less than 3 pounds and is still located under the hood. besides, aluminum simply just looks better, imo. also, easy fabrication depends much on the skill of ones welding abilities. also, having a flux core mig weldor wont do.
but hey, it's all up to the person. aluminum, steel, carbon fiber... whatever you want to use, as long as its safe and can hold.
for mine this season, I just went to a local auto parts store. I picked up a battery tray and j hooks for about 15 bucks for the set (My bottom was completely deteriorated). I just got some long screws and a couple of washers to even out the distrobution, and screwed it into two of the stock holes. J-hooks/crossbar attach to the tray. It passed tech inspection all year, which is good, they didn't like my ratcheting tye-down I used at the last race of the last year, when my battery tray broke in the grid... they did let me run, though
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I used a some threaded rod and made my own J-hooks ..used the cross bar piece and put two nuts on the threaded rods(j-hooks) ..and problem solved...price 2 bucks!..I can shake the whole car when I try to move the battery..Solid!
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