well You guys my friend bought a 10th ann , 88 t2 ....and it has PROBLEMs lol ....I got him to Tow it to my school ( my automotive School ) FIRST problem is Its Blowin smoke , OIl to be exact...Its a beat up engine so i know its due for an rebuild...the rest of the problems are ELECTRICAL The engine harness looks Different to me , there are about 6 or 7 male Connecters that have no plug in places ....check them out




...... The cars previous owner added a Greddy Boost controller , and a Fuel pump kill switch ........The other problem is The car seems to be starving itself and Bogs out an shuts off , when you Rev it up as the revs come down it jus DROPS below 500 rpms and jus CUTS .........any help you guys? where should i begin...........and my buddy refuses to get rid of it , he says he wants to stick it out.....SO any Info would help

 

sorry for the HUGE pics

 

Don't know about the first 2, but the last one is just for diagnostic crap and don't need to be connected to anything.

 

diagnostic are the green ones and the white ones are for some kind of light

 

get better shots of the bay

 

I don't think you need to plug any of those in. Check and see if the ACV is plugged in because that black connector may be for it....

Compression test it first and then go from there. If it's dying out, the variable resistor may be turned to full lean. Try turning it all the way to rich. If it idles ok then back it off a bit so you're not spooging excess amounts of fuel at idle...

Also, check your TPS and BAC....

 

yea alot of those plugs mean nothing, my car only has like 8 plugs actually plugged in and it ran fine. till the bearings turned into mush

 

thats one of many things the fc is known for

 

The BAC helps hold the idle speed. Check it out first.

It also sounds like the Fast Idle components are not adjusted right. Take a look at the fast idle cam, water thermowax etc. See the online and free Factory 'Service Manual. The Fuel Section.

In other words look for a butchered throttle body.

 

That first connector is the alternator precharge connector. It's what gets the alternator pumping out the right amperage by giving it a quick boost from the battery, and could very well be the reason for the car stalling after revving (though probably not the only reason, by the sounds of it). Plug it in to the back of the alternator.

Not sure what the white plugs are, sorry.

Green plugs are diagnostic plugs and do not need to be connected.

 

mazda put some of the same wiring in all the cars.
i have a 86 gxl with adjusting suspension
and i friend on mine has a an 87 gtu and he has the same wires

 

thanks for the INfo guys ill check it out .................. NOW my NEW question is , THe TUrbo is whats Leaking oil ........could that be the SMoke out the exhaust problem OR is it oil seals going out?

 

Could be both!

 

Connector 1 looks like it goes to the back of the alt? There are a couple of diagnostic plugs and mess in the car. There are quite a few plugs in my engine bay that are not plugged in either and everything appears to work fine. Check what codes your car is throwing?

 

strange thing is ..... THe car isnt throwing any Dtc's well what i mean is theres no check engine light on

 

Your luck day! I can solve that quesiton. The series four have no check engine light.

 

check the compresion that will thell you if its your motor or turbo and yeah does it die out when cold or all the time if only cold its could be the BAC mine did that.

 

i think you have a bad turbo and a vacuum leak.. with any new to you seven check compression... check for any wobble (endplay) in the turbo. and check for any cracked hoses and make sure the air flow meter is connected both physically and electrically. i dont know what that white plug is it looks weird..

 

Def adjust your dashpot. When i first got my 87 TII when i revved it on occasion it would just drop down to like 200 rpms then stall out. THe dashpot wasnt catching it so now i adjusted it and it catches it perfectly and holds it at 800 or so. Also check your tps. You can build a little diagnostic tool for a few bucks. I think it might be 1300cc.com or something like that that has a write up on how to do it. Also i wish ur buddy luck they can be a lot of fun but a pita sometimes

 

Don't count on the engine is blown just because there is oil smoke. That is common when the engine hasn't been run in a while and even happens occasionally when just sitting for a couple of days.
My '97TII sat in the driveway for a very extended length of time. when I put a new battery on and cranked it up, it blew dense blue fog for almost 20 minutes. After that, it cleared up and I've put another 29,000 miles on it with no other work on it.

Remember, on a rotary, blue smoke doesn't always mean a rebuild.

- k -

 

WEllllllll You guys lol The engine DIED today , We came into class and had an electricall worksheet to do , and when we started it up WE heard a POP and It sound like the car was REDLining and jus Bogged out .....tryed to start it back up and wellll IT wouldn't ......it Sounded like NOTHING was inside , and freely spining , with no Compression it seemed....( we didnt have a COmpression tester at hand ) Ohh well , BUT thanks Everybody for the Help , well jus have to rebuild it

 

Sounds like a project. Can you post some more pics of the engine bay and exterior of the car?

 

GL with that all of my problems with electrical related.