Battery relocation - What's the best cable path?
#26
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by SureShot
I found why my sensor signals were inacurate.
The cheesy primary ground clip had slipped off the firewall spade.
The cheesy primary ground clip had slipped off the firewall spade.
Given that this cable happily carries ~100A during cranking, if the cable is in good condition and it's connections are clean and secure you have to question the worth of adding extra grounds from the engine. The current this wire carries while the engine is running is far less than when cranking.
#28
Lives on the Forum
Yes NZ, but you have to envision the current flow paths here (or more accurately, the bonding). I, like others, figure the very best spot for that ground is right on top of the starter. That's the component that uses the most "juice", therefore that's where the juice terminal needs to be. Our metal-to-metal contact points on our engines (starter-to-tranny, tranny-to-rear housing, rear housing to rotor housing, etc...) leave something to be desired when considering electrical flow paths. Especially mine now, with hylomar "squished" between them, lol. Do you really want 100A flowing through your rear housing-to-tranny-to-starter mating surfaces?
This is the very reason I installed a stout (10 gauge) bonding jumper right on top of that rear rotor housing ground, directly to the firewall. Now that my starter is directly fed, and that housing ground is directly fed, there is no need for any worries about the conductivity of the housing-to-housing (or tranny-to-starter) contact points. Now, I don't call this an "extra" ground, it is nothing more than a bonding wire, but I guarantee it provides a better electrical path to the chassis "potential" than the OEM setup. SureShot, you may want to try this...You're right, that firewall "spade clip" is cheesy...
Thanks, RETed, exactly the info I was looking for. I reiterate my demands for editing that "grounding how-to" thread so these guys will quit grounding that boost sensor and then wondering why their cars are running like crap...
This is the very reason I installed a stout (10 gauge) bonding jumper right on top of that rear rotor housing ground, directly to the firewall. Now that my starter is directly fed, and that housing ground is directly fed, there is no need for any worries about the conductivity of the housing-to-housing (or tranny-to-starter) contact points. Now, I don't call this an "extra" ground, it is nothing more than a bonding wire, but I guarantee it provides a better electrical path to the chassis "potential" than the OEM setup. SureShot, you may want to try this...You're right, that firewall "spade clip" is cheesy...
Thanks, RETed, exactly the info I was looking for. I reiterate my demands for editing that "grounding how-to" thread so these guys will quit grounding that boost sensor and then wondering why their cars are running like crap...
#30
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
This is the very reason I installed a stout (10 gauge) bonding jumper right on top of that rear rotor housing ground, directly to the firewall.
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toplessFC3Sman
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03-20-18 01:54 PM