florotory

Ok so i am in the middle of relocating my battery. I have the wire routed to the engine bay. I was wondering if this would work to connect the cable from my battery to the old cable that supplies the car with power?

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-80-Power-R.../dp/B000K52EAY

I just happened to have one laying around. I also have a 200amp breaker that im using near the battery already. thanks

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

A relay? Sure, you could, but you probably won't be able to use the stock battery terminals on your existing cable ends. I acutally just used a plastic box to isolate the junction from the fender. I cut off the cable end and crimped on a 2ga ring terminal lug (on both ends) and bolted them together at the plastic box. No problems.

florotory

what did you use for the bolts to hook the cable up too? kinda hard to see in the pic. I deff see what you did. just trying to see what i need to make/buy to get it all hooked up

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Just connect the new battery feed to the existing cable is going to make it a bit of a mess. Try something like these:

http://order.waytekwire.com/products...ction%20Block/

florotory

Thanks thats exactly what im looking for

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I drilled a hole in the plastic box and ran a regular grade 8 bolt through it. It's got a locknut on top to keep the bolt from moving, then a washer, the 2 cable lugs, another washer, then a nut to keep the connections tight. I bought the box from lowes, it's one of those electrical junction boxes that you install light switches in. I just painted it black to match the engine bay (it's blue plastic originally) then drilled holes, secured the bolt to it, then screwed the block to the fender well, then connected the leads. I like the junction that Aaron showed and I'd prefer to use it, but Lowe's is across the street

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

It is much cleaner and easier to just bypass the original factory battery cable altogether. If you're relocating the battery (such as to one of the storage bins) there is no need to use that wire. Battery (+) to starter, starter to fuse block. Battery (-) to chassis at the bins, and another heavy cable from the motor to the firewall. Done.

florotory

i was wondering about that as well cause the old battery cable is still from when the car was new. I thought about replacing that but, i might as well just do like you said. plus it will look much cleaner

florotory

ok which wire on the starter is the one that comes straight from the battery? is it the one on the bottom of the starter near the ground plug or the one on the top of starter? thanks

florotory

just finished it. deff much cleaner to go straight to the starter then fuse box. Mine came out great (IMO)

TitaniumTT

Instead of all that, why not buy a butt-connector and some heat shrink? Do it right? Seems alot easier, cleaner, safer - no exposed hot leads, etc etc etc

TitaniumTT

The junctions that Aaron posted are intended to be used as jumper leads. If you need to go through a firewall or a floor pan, this is what you want



http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...%20TYPE%20RED/

And again to above, even this would've been better in my eyes than some random junction box with a hole drilled through it. Creative, sure, destined to fail in my eyes though

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Interesting....never thought about jumper leads....

TitaniumTT

I have these connected directly to my battery and mouted in my bin, So if I need a jump, I'm not climbing in the back of the car, over a rollbar with jumper cables.



http://www.delcity.net/store/Dual-Po...104643.a_1.t_1

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

That's exactly why I did mine the way I did.

Look, I get beat on alot around here because I do things "differently." Just because it's different doesn't mean it's destined to fail.

florotory

i actually like the way you did yours. I chose to go a different route cause i wanted a cleaner look. I really dont think yours looks all that bad

TitaniumTT

Yeah me too. Think about all the abuse people get when they want to do FD sequential turbo's in an FC, on an RE and then back it all with a 6-spd, it's funny too becuase I don't see any of those people telling me it's a waste of time when I make 405rwhp/323ft/lbs with stock FD twins, and have a 6-spd that bolts in place with a properly located shifter. OOPS, oh yeah, I've never seen a higher dyno figure on twins than mine so all the people that told me is was a waste of time.

There's nothing wrong with doing things differently, that's not what I'm saying. What I'm saying is you've got a square piece of plastic supporting alot of amps, if it breaks, bad things will happen. It's also totally exposed. This is also bad. Waytek has no min, I'd order the stud and be done with it. WestMarine.com has smaller ones and I have a few of those scattered around my car as well. I have a pretty simple rule when I re-wire a car/boat - one cable per battery post. I've got two of those posts on the plane behind the fiberglass, infront of the bins to distribute power to where it belongs, gnd too. It's just a stronger way to do it.

Supercharged FC

iTrader: (7)

I did my whole battery relocation with parts from West Marine. Get a master shut off too, mines been a life safer. **** hits the fan I reach behind the pasenger seat a depower the car, plus it prevents those "i'm to lazy to remove the batterycable, so I'll pop my coils/main fuse/burn my dash/ect" instances.

TitaniumTT

Better than the disco switch, I've run those too, is the Painless performance remote battery disco switch. Basically a 200A cont rated relay. Just make sure you turn it off. It pulls ~1A and will kill your bat in a number of days.

And if anyone is wondering about it getting hot, I drove my FC to Deals and back last year, 14 hrs with it on constantly and no issues. I'm sure it got warm, but it's rated @ 200 A, I have a 140A Alt, and a 150A breaker.