Fault Bucket

I'm looking for reasons why this might be a BAD idea. I'm working on doing a battery relocation to the passenger side bin. This is for a dedicated track and auto-x car, but I do drive to/from events. I'm thinking about power cable routing options and want some feedback on why I might choose to not go this direction.

I'd like to run two power feeds, one directly to the input side of the main fuse block in the engine bay and one directly to starter. For the main fuse block I'll use at least 4GA (4GA should be plenty for just the main block), and for the starter I'll use at least 2GA.

The run to the main fuse block will be the standard route through the driver side sill and into the engine bay through the existing big grommet.

Now for the possibly controversial part - I'm thinking of running the starter cable through the driver side frame rail and out just even with the starter, either on the bottom or side of the rail (see pics). There's plenty of room in the frame rail, and there is a nice existing hole from the bin area just above the rear of the rail. I figure I can run through that hole, right into the frame rail, and then exit the frame rail just even with the starter for a fairly short, protected run. I'll likely be using 2GA welding cable. I do plan on a 150A breaker at the battery end.

Anyone have valid reasons to not consider this option? One I can already think of is that if the car get t-boned on the driver side there's the chance for an arc near potentially ruptured fuel lines. Any other showstoppers?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

thats how mine is ran except i am running both through the frame rail. the only problem ive had was the wire going to the main fuse wasnt ran well and got twisted around the steering rack. its all good now though

dawicka2

Ran mine through the frame rail as well. Also welded on a long [ looking channel over the framerail for added rigidity. No issues at all using 0 gauge monster cable.

john ny

TitaniumTT

through the frame rail isn't the best idea becuase there is no real way to secure it. Build some brackets and mount it with the hard lines.

Also - 0 gauge, next time buy 2ga marine cable and give me the savings if you're just going to waste $$. We'll put it on my wholesale account so I can get more $$ too

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

What worked for me was 2ga welding cable. It was pretty inexpensive, super flexible, and has a nice think rubber insulation. I ran it behind the seats and along the frame rails under the carpet.

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

the only problem I can see if some how the rail gets damaged it will crimp the wire

Mr.FC3s

yeah but if that happens getting power is the least of his worries

petree_777

iTrader: (1)

ran mine through the rail also. running 9 but that is just because i got it for free.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I ran mine On the inside of the rail..NOT Enclosed,just Beside it.I used some plastic Clamps so it wouldn't Short out if they wore through.I also Wrapped the living Crap out of the Wiring From the Main cables,all the way back to the Battery Location in the passenger side bin,.By using a couple rolls of Electrical tape.(should have used Wire Loom,but I was Broke,so I improvised!!.I popped them up through the separate grommets there.Now,It Works,But I am thinking on running them differently come spring.I am going to make a ground at the Battery Location to the Frame,with a short Piece of cable,and use the other Terminal on the battery..The Positive will get re-routed also,I just haven't come up with a Good Idea for that..But the way I did it,it still incorporates the Fuse block on the engine bay..so That was my Goal..Not to screw up anything there.Just go and string two Cables to the battery at it's new location,as it would work just like the Stock location.Only Lose a bit of Voltage due to the Long run of wire.But,I am also Running an FD alternator on the FC,so it doesn't effect the Voltage that much.I still get 13-14.