smith88

I just ran the wires for my battery last night to the passenger side storage bin.
I ran the positive up to the original positive in the engine bay, and ran the ground to a bolt on the frame.

When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't start. Do any of the stock grounds in the front have to be directly connected to the battery? I was touching them to the frame, but the car had no juice.

I have remote terminals that I will be mounting in the engine bay where the battery tray is. That is why I wanted to keep the stock battery wires. Any suggestions , thoughts?

THX

smith88

here's my car info

RETed

Did you ground the stock ground wire?


-Ted

smith88

I didn't actually bolt it to the frame, but I was touching a bolt on the frame with the ground.
I will try and bolt it down next time I'm in the garage.

Do I really need fuses and a kill switch for this setup? If I have it J-hooked down in the storage bin, and connected to the stock wiring, it should be fine right?

THX

dr0x

If you plan on taking it to any race track youll need a fuse or breaker with an external master cut off switch.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Hence the reason why I didnt relocate my battery.

Jarrett

5 point whoa

I agree

dr0x

Meh. Its cheap/easy to set it up right.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

What do you recommend?

I know it's common place for a drag strip.. But is it also the rule at a real race course?

I know a few guys who race and have a relocated battery.. With no external cutoff switch.. And I'm not talking about the mad tyte street racers either..

Dan H

Would like to know too. I plan on going autocrossing with my car and maybe later, take it up to the tracks.

Going to re-do my interior soon so I might as well do a battery relocation too.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

This Is when someone posts the pictorial diagram RETed had on his former site>

RETed

Let's try this...
http://www.geocities.com/reted_2000/battrelo.jpg
You'll need to cut&paste since Geoshitties is an *** about redirects. :P



-Ted

fcfdfan

RETed, I only got to go to your old FC site a few times. I think I'm going to have to search the whole Forum and read every post you've ever made. And I don't just mean to check your avatars.

Thanks again.

RETed

I'm working on getting the site back up, but it's tedious cause I gotta redo all the hard links. :P On top of helping hIGGI with all the FC work, I don't have too much time, but I think I'll get a lot done this weekend, since we got some downtime from the shop right now.

I've got ideas on new additions to the website, which consists of SAE info which is very technical, but very interesting reading - I haven't seen info like this posted anywhere...

Be patient!


-Ted

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

Can't Wait!

Ted, where can you get a breaker switch that big? Or at least, what brand do you recommend? I've never really shopped around for 150A breakers..

Also, I would think that it would be better to go with something like a 200A breaker switch if you are running a few extra loads such as an electric fan.. ?

What do you recommend?

RETed

Parts Express carries 150A Phoenix Gold ones.
We've used the 100A ones which are readily available, but they seem to trip when we cranked the starter too many time - we were doing this to try and get a Haltech car to start.&nbsp On normal daily use, the 100A ones shouldn't trip though...

Whoops, looks like Phoenix Gold redid their CB ratings...they have a 140A and a 200A now.

200A one:&nbsp http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6274&DID=7

140A one:&nbsp http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6272&DID=7

Catalog page with entire listing, in PDF format:&nbsp http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/catalog03/293pec02.pdf?

Notice, the pics for the individual pages are WRONG - they show the 100A version, but the parts description and part numbers are correct.

Also, there is no price difference between all three (including the 100A one) CB's, so order the highest (200A) ones.

Oh yeah, one other thing...I am a real happy customer of Parts Express.&nbsp Everything I have ordered has been straight-forward, and they one time they screwed up an order (for rechargable batteries), they fixed it by telling me to keep the wrong parts and shipping the correct ones overnight!&nbsp Great customer service!&nbsp I've spent thousands of dollars from them - if you peruse their catalog, you'll understand why...

Good luck!



-Ted

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

So I guess from your experience the 150A is plenty, then?

Thanks Ted. Much Appreciated.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Excellent. I have one noob question. For my efan, Ignition Box etc - for clean appearance sake and preferably to not run all the wires all the way back to the rear, what did you do to have the given wires hooked up? Did you have It spliced Inline? An adapter midway, maybe In the Engine Bay? I've been wanting to do this for awhile now and these questions afirm my go!

dr0x

Breaker on the alt positive line, to the battery in the trunk, then a 150A breaker coming off the + lead on the battery to a moroso master cut off switch (70$?) at the rear, back to the front of the car. You have to run the alt to the back and not just to the front wiring so the car dies when they turn the switch off. A friend of mine got longer studs for his license plate, put the switch under there (so ppl couldnt see it on thte street). He just takes the plate off at the track.

RETed

For me, I run the blank extra fuse location in the fuse box under the car for the fan - it makes installing a 30A/40A fuse in there really easy, and it looks stock!&nbsp The fuse box is already powered - you just need a spare fuse.&nbsp Now, the other side of the circuit uses a 8mm female spade - not your typical 0.250" female spade commonly found in the U.S. - I strip these terminals from junkyard FC's for this purpose.

Now, the circuit breakers have 1/4" studs on them, and I connect smaller amperafe circuits straight to them - like the Crane HI-6 - with very little fuss.&nbsp Crimp on a 1/4" ring terminal, and it'll go right under the nut.


-Ted

RETed

Yes, I haven't had it trip on me yet.
Back to the 100A tripping...we were trying to get a Haltech car started, and it took at least 10 attempts of cranking at least 10 seconds each to trip the 100A circuit breaker.&nbsp Now, under ordinary circumstances, this should not happen.&nbsp I still would recommend the 100A units, if you're not going to go through this much electrical stress...


-Ted

dr0x

But if they are all the same price anyways, order the big one

liquidferrum

i know this may sound dumb...but why do you need a breaker?

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

Same reason they have them in everyones houses. If there is a short, the breaker will kick off instead of letting all the amperage through and potentially causing fire.

RETed

You ever seen 2 gauge wire short to ground?
You'll understand when wire the diameter of your thumb can suddenly vaporize and set everything else on fire...


-Ted