2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Battery Relocation

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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 05:40 PM
  #26  
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From: Wisconsin =(
oh alright, i wasnt really thinking, but how come there arent ones on stock electrical systems?

Last edited by liquidferrum; Oct 6, 2003 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 07:09 PM
  #27  
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There is. They are called fuses.

Fuses blow and need to be replaced, breaker switches will kick off and can just be flipped back on rather than replaced.

We need them because there aren't 2 or 4 gauge wires bone stock that are of such excessive length. When you are relocating you will have some big wires running along the chassis. Namely the power wire is big and the chassis is a big ground. Just like RETed said. You DO NOT want a short, because it will cause alot of damage.
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Old Oct 7, 2003 | 10:47 AM
  #28  
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From: Wisconsin =(
oh alright, the fuses are what i was getting at, i should have just asked why the stock fuses wouldnt do the trick, thanks for taking the time to clear that up for me =)
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 09:03 PM
  #29  
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where did you guys run the wire from the stock connectors and alterator to the bin?
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Old Nov 7, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #30  
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Do you need 2 circuit breakers or just one circuit breaker and a fuse? On the diagram you have 2 circuit breakers...
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 11:25 PM
  #31  
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You really don’t need any circuit breakers. Two fuses will do just fine and will be much cheaper. If you are blowing fuses or tripping breakers there is something wrong.

Just remember that circuit breakers are nothing more than reset-able fuses. They are interchangeable. What you use in your setup is up to you.

It is kind of convenient to be able to flip a switch when working on the electrical system, as apposed to disconnecting the battery.

…and yes, whatever you use, you should have two of them.

I have a question though.
Does it matter what type of power wire we use?

A friend of mine said that the High-Strand-Count car audio power wire should not be used for battery relocation, and something with a lower stand count should be used instead. Is this true? Why?
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 11:40 PM
  #32  
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How are you anchoring your battery to the floor of the storage bin? Did I miss that?
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 06:49 PM
  #33  
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I'm anchoring my battery to the bin floor with J-hooks. I had to drill 2 holes and cut off the lengthy J-hooks, but it worked.
I only have 1 breaker back by my battery. I had to run a Power and Ground up to my remote terminals in the engine bay. Power on the passenger side, ground on the drivers side. And then I hooked up the stock battery wires to the newly ran wires onto the terminals.
Everything is working great. I even took it to a dragstrip, and they didn't even check the inside of my car or under the hood. Ran a slow time though, think I lost a vaccuum hose.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 07:38 PM
  #34  
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From: Front Royal, Virginia
Originally posted by jinx22630
How are you anchoring your battery to the floor of the storage bin? Did I miss that?
Ok, cool, just wanted to make sure you didn't get decapitated if you were ever in a roll-over. Just make sure that bitch isn't going anywhere!!!!!!
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Old Dec 1, 2003 | 01:30 AM
  #35  
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Did you guys run the wire inside the car or outside the car? What way is better to do?
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