KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Cared to explain why? Here is your chance to prove your vast knowledge

Can you name 5 good reasons as to why not?


I thought thats what you said, however I believe there is a misundertanding here; I am talking about the ones on the engine bay. The fact that the main fuse should be tested, just in case there is any aftermarket electrical components

Read above.


You don't have to, I think I have been very clear on why I did it; yet I have proven that your ways of troubleshooting the issues is not all that . You have to get off the 100% stock car mentality, there is more to it that the FSM.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Am I confused or did you just say in your last post that you don't need to test all the interior fuses?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I thought NZconvertible was recomending it, so I used that to emphasise how its easier to set the MM at the battery; however I still recomend that the MAIN fuse be tested.

Hondaeat-R

So, with the key out of the ignition, engine off, all accessories off, doors closed...etc, put the MM to measure amps, and put it in series with the negative battery post and cable. It should show that I have draw (the parasitic load), then while the MM is still hooked up I should start pulling fuses until one of them makes the current drop a significant amount ? Then the draw will be part of that fuses circuit ? Is this accurate ? One thing, since i'll have the hood open, won't that cause draw to appear on the fuse that covers the OEM car alarm, since FC's have a sensor to know when the hood is shut ? Last time i was in my car, i couldn't even find my interior fuse box....i know where it SHOULD be, but i can't even see it at all. Now, one thing that I found odd last time i was poking around is that, with everything off & all that, I tested the BTN fuse blades using Volts on my MM and it read out like 12.38v. Isn't that too high, or am i testing the wrong thing again? Because all of the other engine bay fuses tested 0v.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Yes, that's exactly what you eed to do.

Don't worry about those, as stated by NZconvertible; when the ignition is off, those won't have any power. DO TEST the MAIN fuse at the engine bay (it has two 10mm bolts, one on each side)

NZConvertible

The question should be why would you? And where?

There is nothing you can say that makes checking voltage in series look anything but dumb.

That makes no difference at all. Added electrical stuff doesn't change the way you look for battery drain causes.

RotaMan99

Ah sorry. Jump the gun.

You can test it if you want. Im not saying not to, you were saying to pull the main fuse when you simply can't because its bolted in.

Also, I know from experience that removing a 10mm (or is it 12mm) from the B post of the alternator does take less time then screwing around with th efuse box to get a wrench or socket to loosen the 2 10mm bolts that hold the main fuse in.

How so? Care to explain?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Nothing wrong with testing the alt, but doing the fuse will tell you if the issue is in that area or not.


Yes, you are right, but what if the alt is good, but the issue is still somewhere after the main fuse? You might keep looking somewhere else, just because the main fuse was bypassed. My way of thinking is "start at the root" and work yourself down.

No need to explain it, there is no "rule of thumb", try looking it up in books, internet; you won't find a defined rule for this, not even the experts can answer the question...

Now let me ask you a question, why were you to wire an aftermarket alarm to the very same place the OEM alarm is wired to? The thief disables the oem alarm (by reading the FSM I might add), and BAM there also goes your aftermarket alarm.

Any other way, the thief WILL have to disable TWO alarms, one after the other (and not both at the same time, guided by the FSM); thats my logic

RotaMan99

I would do the same if I knew the alternator was working the way it should. The whole point of starting at the alt is for the very reason that so far the alternator is NOT working the way it should and COULD draw extra current from the battery. It has happend before and will again.

If the alternator happen to test good and was working correctly, then yes I would say test the fuses and the main fuse and not test the alt at all untill you come to it.

You can place it in a different location you know that right? You can add any sensor you would like but the car is already wired up if you use the stock wiring. Other sensors like motion sensor or glass bracking sensor you will have to wire your self but 90% of the work will already be done for you. I have a page on my computer that show you how to install an aftermarket into the OEM harness. And why would you want to stick with the OEM anyways? That alarm sucks I think.

You right, there is no rule of thumb just a very good way of wiring without all the extra hassel of running ALL NEW wires when you don't have to. The door locks, door switches, hood latches, key locks hatch and other items are already wired for you.

Most alarms can run without a battery source for a few minutes after disconnecting the battery. When you say disabling the alarm, what exactly are you refering too? Reaching under the dash and ripping the unit out? Reaching under the car and disconnecting the horn?

You can put the alarm box somewhere else and you can put the horn somewhere else to and you can put the door switches or install different switches near the same location and use the same wiring.

Yes you are right, but like I said above, we know there is an issue with the alternator so why not test that first now and not after you test 5 other items including unbolting the main fuse?

Hondaeat-R

Alright guys, i got a better Fluke brand MM to use and did some testing again. Doing this voltage test again showed varied results from the 1st time i did it. **One question, in the test below, does "alternator frame" mean the slide bar used for belt adjustment, or the exterior of the alternator itself ? I'll put both.

VOLTAGE TEST

Engine running, headlights on & heater fan on high.
Alternator B post to alternator frame = 13.5-14v (verifies alt. output) **my result 11.70v to alt exterior. 0.02 to alternator slide bar.
Alternator B post to battery + = 0v verifies primary + wire. **my result 0.08v
Alternator frame to battery - = 0v verifies primary ground **my result 0.00v
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery + to battery - = 12.5v and holds steady. (verifies battery) **my result 11.78 (Brand new batt.)

Now when i tested the alternator B post to negative battery post (with car running but no accessories on) the MM read 12.45. Thats too low right ? Battery tested 12.48.

Here comes the fun stuff...I put the MM on Amps dc, and connected it in series w/ the negative post and cable. i got a draw of 0.12 - 0.17 amps. Started pulling fuses, the BTN fuse was the fuse that when pulled, made the draw go away. So i started on the interior fuse box. Got to the 7.5amp "Room" fuse, and when pulled, the draw went away (obviously i had the BTN in @ the time) So there's my problem, a short in the Dome light....Now, since I have kept the 7.5a Room fuse out, my radio cuts out when I open the door, OR switch the dome light switch to either side from the middle. **The radio doesn't lose power, just no sound comes out. Weird right ? The only other thing affected by having the 7.5a Room fuse out, is the alarm light doesn't light up. Any suggestions now ? I guess I can live w/ not having a dome light, and the radio cutting out when I open the door.....it's quirky but not major. either way i'm seeing that I need an alternator.

One last thing , since i pulled that fuse, it shows no draw..but aren't you suppossed to have SOME draw ? my MM was showing none once I pulled the fuse. So, now i'm a little confused....

RotaMan99

0.12 is to high. From what I remember 0.040 is 40ma.

There are more items on that one fuse.
Cargo Room Light
Courtesy Lights
Interior & Spot Light
Warning Buzzer/Chime
Door Lock Cylinder & Ignition Key Cylinder lights (Select few had these)
EGI & ECS
Idiot lights and clock
Alarm System
Audio System

Without actually checking out your wiring I can't tell you for sure where to start looking.

Maybe your radio is wired up wrong or shorting out?

Hondaeat-R

I know that those are on the BTN, but they're not all on the "Room" light. I had the BTN in, but the 7.5a Room fuse out, and the 0.12a draw went to 0.00 on the MM.

NZConvertible

The ROOM fuse protects the interior lights, clock memory, stereo memory, ECU memory and alarm system. Using the same technique as before, unplug the warning light cluster, the ECU, the stereo and the alarm module, checking for any change in current each time you unplug one. If there's no change, it's the interior lights.

Hondaeat-R

I'm thinking it's those Int lights. because the radio cuts out when the door opens (the is suppossed to come on when you open the door) and i can turn the sound from the radio off by switching the dome light switch to either side. Is there any problem w/ keeping the fuse out like i am now ? I'll def test further, but keepinf the fuse out isn't hurting anything right /