Battery Drain issue
03-06-07, 08:53 AM
#51
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Jeez, this is so obvious...
You're checking for the circuit that has more current flow than it should. As already explained, there shouldn't be more the 40-50mA of current draw through the whole system when the ignition's off, so if you find a circuit with more than that, a system on that circuit will most likely be the cause of the battery discharging.
You're checking for the circuit that has more current flow than it should. As already explained, there shouldn't be more the 40-50mA of current draw through the whole system when the ignition's off, so if you find a circuit with more than that, a system on that circuit will most likely be the cause of the battery discharging.
Instead of looking for the actual numbers, I just looked for the fluctations on those numbers (amps or volts) when pulling one fuse at a time. You mentioned somewhere in here, to MEASURE the amps drawn on every single fuse.
I think my way of looking for the draw is faster\smarter...
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
WTF are you talking about? What you just said is completely irrelevant to the discussion. What to relays have to do with this?
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Again, how is that relevant? Any modifications should still be protected by fues in exactly the same way.
WOW, just wow...
Any modifications should have its own fuse, such fuse might be right behind the 100amps fuse (somewhere under the dash)
03-06-07, 09:00 AM
#52
Originally Posted by KNONFS
There are different was to skin a cat...
Instead of looking for the actual numbers, I just looked for the fluctations on those numbers (amps or volts) when pulling one fuse at a time. You mentioned somewhere in here, to MEASURE the amps drawn on every single fuse.
Instead of looking for the actual numbers, I just looked for the fluctations on those numbers (amps or volts) when pulling one fuse at a time. You mentioned somewhere in here, to MEASURE the amps drawn on every single fuse.
03-06-07, 12:05 PM
#54
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The fastest most correct way is to look at the jpg I posted and have at it.
Or if you like to fiddle **** around, get a current clamp. Jpg attached.
And the last time I looked, there's more than just the fuses in the engine fuse box to consider. The line large line off the altenator feeds the 80amp fuse and also it feeds the ignition switch which in turn feeds fuses in the interior fuse box.
Have fun.
Or if you like to fiddle **** around, get a current clamp. Jpg attached.
And the last time I looked, there's more than just the fuses in the engine fuse box to consider. The line large line off the altenator feeds the 80amp fuse and also it feeds the ignition switch which in turn feeds fuses in the interior fuse box.
Have fun.
Last edited by HAILERS; 03-06-07 at 12:18 PM.
03-06-07, 01:10 PM
#55
Originally Posted by HAILERS
And the last time I looked, there's more than just the fuses in the engine fuse box to consider. The line large line off the altenator feeds the 80amp fuse and also it feeds the ignition switch which in turn feeds fuses in the interior fuse box.
Have fun.
On my case, I had an open circuit after the main fuse, however the draw was still there even after I removed the alt positive cable from the post, and disconnected the cable that feeds the switch.
That's why "I" recommend doing the MM test on the main fuse, rather that bypassing it and doing the ones on the kickpanel.
03-06-07, 03:31 PM
#56
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Hmm, we are thiking outside of the box now, aren't we
I guess, I can recreate the problem, test it my way with two different multimeter; and take pics...
I guess, I can recreate the problem, test it my way with two different multimeter; and take pics...
As I mentioned before, I wouldn't worry about finding HOW much amps are being drawn on top of the static ones. You already know there is a problem, right?
He can just swap out the alternator and start the car, shut it down and hope it doesn't die, OR he could really calm his nerves and test for current to get rid of the ugly thought in the back of his mind that something else could be wrong, and that something else may have fried his alternator.
1 - If you are going to follow the amps test, disconnect the positive side; and set the multimeter in series between the battery post and the cable terminal.
2 - Start pulling fuses, while monitoring the MM readings (start with the fuses at the engine bay, make sure you also test the main one 100amps that its hold by two 10mm bolts on each side).
My way,
1 - Disconnect the negative side, and set the multimeter in siries between the battery post and the cable terminal.
2 - Start pulling fuses, while monitoring the MM readings (start with the fuses at the engine bay, make sure you also test the main one 100amps that its hold by two 10mm bolts on each side).
2 - Start pulling fuses, while monitoring the MM readings (start with the fuses at the engine bay, make sure you also test the main one 100amps that its hold by two 10mm bolts on each side).
My way,
1 - Disconnect the negative side, and set the multimeter in siries between the battery post and the cable terminal.
2 - Start pulling fuses, while monitoring the MM readings (start with the fuses at the engine bay, make sure you also test the main one 100amps that its hold by two 10mm bolts on each side).
so is "your way" testing in volts, or amps as well ? thanks for the help , really
Disconnect the main wire going to the alternator AT the alternator. Not the 2 small one, the big fat one. Hook your MM in series using the ammeter selection and you should see 0.000amps. If you see anything more then your alt is pulling the juice. You CAN also test the 2 small wires to make sure the alt or interior electronics are not pulling in juice from there as well.
03-06-07, 11:54 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Instead of looking for the actual numbers, I just looked for the fluctations on those numbers (amps or volts) when pulling one fuse at a time. You mentioned somewhere in here, to MEASURE the amps drawn on every single fuse.
Looking for "fluctuations" in voltage measured the wrong way won't show you if the current in the circuit is normal (powering the clock or whatever) or excessive. The whole point of the exercise is to find the problem circuit, not the ones that are fine.
I think my way of looking for the draw is faster\smarter...
A malfunctioning relay, is not an irrevlant issue on a battery drain problem...
Any modifications should have its own fuse, such fuse might be right behind the 100amps fuse (somewhere under the dash)
...you can isolate a HUGE part of the oem electrical system by doing the test on the main fuse (which is a 100amps on the 89-91).
03-07-07, 06:06 AM
#58
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Assuming you're working on your own and have a DMM connected at the battery, when checking the interior fuses your method seems to involve reading the meter, getting in the car and pulling a fuse, getting out to see if the meter reading has changed, getting back in to replace the fuse and pull the next fuse, getting out to read the meter, getting back in to replace the fuse and pull the next fuse, etc, etc. My way the meter is at the fuse box with you. It should take less than a minute to do.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
The MAIN fuse is in the engine bay, not under the dash. Added systems can easily be checked by pulling their fuse and measuring the current through the terminals just like the rest. Those fuses should always be located near the battery anyway, so they're easily checked.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
You can isolate a huge part of the electrical system by leaving the ignition switch off.
03-07-07, 06:15 AM
#59
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
You are kinda right but not completly. The problem could still lay somewhere else. To see if the alt is pulling juice he can simply put the amp meter in series with each wire on the alt. You should see 0 on all of them with a stock S4 and I believe S5. I know the S6 alt should not pull any current while the engine is off.
Wouldn't it be easier so set the MM in series at the battery, LEAVE it, and start puliing fuses, cables?
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
How can you say your way is easier. Looks the same to me.
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
Disconnect the main wire going to the alternator AT the alternator. Not the 2 small one, the big fat one. Hook your MM in series using the ammeter selection and you should see 0.000amps. If you see anything more then your alt is pulling the juice. You CAN also test the 2 small wires to make sure the alt or interior electronics are not pulling in juice from there as well.
03-07-07, 11:22 AM
#60
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Hmm, hahaa. thanks for the suggestions guys... I honestly have NO CLUE what to test now. i guess i'll just figure it out because i def don't have time to test ALL of these argued methods. i do appreciate the many responses though...
03-07-07, 05:07 PM
#61
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Let me ask, instead of saying it...
Wouldn't it be easier so set the MM in series at the battery, LEAVE it, and start puliing fuses, cables?
Wouldn't it be easier so set the MM in series at the battery, LEAVE it, and start puliing fuses, cables?
I like to work smarter, not harder.
Hmm, hahaa. thanks for the suggestions guys... I honestly have NO CLUE what to test now. i guess i'll just figure it out because i def don't have time to test ALL of these argued methods. i do appreciate the many responses though...
Definetly easier than measuring at EVERY single connection or fuse.
How is it any different?
03-07-07, 10:54 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
I take you haven't troubleshooted an aftermarket car alarm issue; I have never seen a car alarm fuse at the battery. Car alarm fuses will be under the dash, carpet or kickpanel.
An alarm will be connected to a circuit that is fed from the BTN fuse, which would've been one of the first pulled for testing if you followed the method in my first post. If the BTN circuit showed an abnormal current draw and the interior fuses I listed didn't, then you'd go check your alarm. It's a logical process of elimination.
03-08-07, 05:53 AM
#63
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Oh geez...
An alarm will be connected to a circuit that is fed from the BTN fuse, which would've been one of the first pulled for testing if you followed the method in my first post. If the BTN circuit showed an abnormal current draw and the interior fuses I listed didn't, then you'd go check your alarm. It's a logical process of elimination.
An alarm will be connected to a circuit that is fed from the BTN fuse, which would've been one of the first pulled for testing if you followed the method in my first post. If the BTN circuit showed an abnormal current draw and the interior fuses I listed didn't, then you'd go check your alarm. It's a logical process of elimination.
Main fuse bro, so if I were to do it your way, I would still be scratching my head
03-08-07, 06:00 AM
#64
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
Not when you want to test a specific device, in this case, the alternator. You can put the mm in series at the batt a pull fuses if you have no idea where to look. Since he has a problem with his alt, he can test the alt specifically to see if THAT is the cause of the drain.
I like to work smarter, not harder.
I like to work smarter, not harder.
See where I am going with this?
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
Haha, guy, stop im LMAO! Ok you said, "Wouldn't it be easier so set the MM in series at the battery, LEAVE it, and start puliing fuses, cables?".
How is it any different?
How is it any different?
There is no wrong way, I just happen to think that by eliminating the constant move of the MM you are saving a time and steps.
Tomatos - Tomatoes = Choose your poison!
03-08-07, 06:02 AM
#65
Originally Posted by Hondaeat-R
Hmm, hahaa. thanks for the suggestions guys... I honestly have NO CLUE what to test now. i guess i'll just figure it out because i def don't have time to test ALL of these argued methods. i do appreciate the many responses though...
I wouldn't concentrate on one specific place, but thats just me. Did you pulled all of the fuses on the engine bay while using the MM?
03-08-07, 04:10 PM
#66
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You are assuming is the alternator, what if the alternator is good (not the one causing the draw), then what? are you going to thest the amp draw on EVERY single fuse\connection?
See where I am going with this?
See where I am going with this?
After that, then you can either check each fuse or hook it up the MM in series at the battery USING THE AMMETER section and start pulling fuses or isolating circuits some other way. Again, what is the difference?
See where I am going with this?
There is no wrong way, I just happen to think that by eliminating the constant move of the MM you are saving a time and steps.
Tomatos - Tomatoes = Choose your poison!
Tomatos - Tomatoes = Choose your poison!
There is a wrong way, using the volt meter instead of the ammeter. The whole time we are telling you to use the ammeter in series not the volt meter in series. We never said you CAN'T or SHOULDN'T hook the ammeter in series at the batt. Infact, we suggested he put it in series at the battery.
I don't see where your idea is faster still.
Follow their advice, it will take you to the same place.
I wouldn't concentrate on one specific place, but thats just me. Did you pulled all of the fuses on the engine bay while using the MM?
03-08-07, 04:25 PM
#68
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i'm gonna do more testing once the temp outside gets above 15 degrees, hhaa. so i should put the MM is series w/ the alternator B post, and the large cable that goes to it ( once disconnected). ?
03-08-07, 04:52 PM
#69
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
Yes I am for right now since the alternator has so far failed at every test. Why NOT test the alt?
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
After that, then you can either check each fuse or hook it up the MM in series at the battery USING THE AMMETER section and start pulling fuses or isolating circuits some other way. Again, what is the difference?
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I have been lost with your directions from the beginning.
I don't see where your idea is faster still.
I don't see where your idea is faster still.
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I would since we know the alternator is most likley bad. If the alternator is the cause, why not test the alt for the drain instead of pulling each fuse. Wouldn't that be faster? If the alternator is not the problem, then you wasted 1-2 minutes of your life. Big deal.
1 - with the MM test at the main fuse (NZconvertible way) and check the readings.
2 - with the MM at the battery, remove the main fuse and check the readings (my way)
03-08-07, 05:52 PM
#71
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I've had a couple of alts die on me, none of them drained the battery over a period of one week.
Dude I'm over the amp vs volt test
Should've mentioned it before. When I say my way, I am referring to hooking the MM at the battery, and LEAVING IT there; rather than pluging it on every single fuse location.
1 - with the MM test at the main fuse (NZconvertible way) and check the readings.
2 - with the MM at the battery, remove the main fuse and check the readings (my way)
2 - with the MM at the battery, remove the main fuse and check the readings (my way)
Last edited by RotaMan99; 03-08-07 at 06:10 PM.
03-08-07, 05:54 PM
#72
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NZ Convert was talking about the OEM Alarm. Also, if you wire up the aftermarket alarm right, it should be wired the same exact way as the OEM through the OEM harness.
03-09-07, 01:17 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Not the alarm on my car
Main fuse bro, so if I were to do it your way, I would still be scratching my head
Main fuse bro, so if I were to do it your way, I would still be scratching my head
You are assuming is the alternator, what if the alternator is good (not the one causing the draw), then what? are you going to thest the amp draw on EVERY single fuse\connection?
There is no wrong way...
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
NZ Convert was talking about the OEM Alarm.