Battery Drain
Battery Drain
I push started tth rx7 because it was flooded. I drove the car for about 5 miles and it stalled at an idle. I cranked the engine and it seemed to be flooded again. Then i pulled the "EGI COMP" and cranked the engine for a couple of sec. When I tried to crank it again the starter wouldn't work. It would only click. The starter isn't bad because it always worked before. I put the "EGI COMP" back in but it didn't make any diference. After a couple of hours the battery was COMPLETLY DEAD! What would cause this?!??
Sounds like a bad battery, dirty terminals. What was the condition of the battery before this all started? You should have the battery charged then checked along with the alternator.
Sorry for the long delay in answering. The battery tests out fine. It holds a charge and will crank another car. When it is in the RX-7, when you go to the START position on the key, everything goes dead. If you pull the positive cable and replace it, everything works again until you go to the START position again. Then everything goes dead again. Doesn't make sense to me because everything was fine until I cranked the enging with the fuse pulled. I hope someone can help on this cause I am at a loss.
This has only been covered 50 times...
Check battery terminals
Check grounds
Check the wire from the battery to the fuse box and the connection at the underhood fuse box.
Check battery terminals
Check grounds
Check the wire from the battery to the fuse box and the connection at the underhood fuse box.
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Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
One more possibility, if your electrical systems check out (listen to Icemark.) 
Carbon lock.
This happened with a 7 I was working on this past fall. It sounds like what's happened to you.
Don't freak. The engine isn't pooched. But you need to get whatever little chunk of carbon is in there OUT.
It would help to get either some ATF or fuel injector cleaner like Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes and let it sit for 8 hours before you attempt this. Just a few ounces in each rotor will do (put the oil in the upper plug holes - leave the bottom plugs in when you do this or the fluid may come out there.) With luck, the carbon is below the holes and the fluid will break it down.
You can either attack this from the front by working the main pulley or from behind and below by pulling out the starter and turning the flywheel with a prybar.
I have a ratcheting breaker bar so we hit it from the front.
VERY gently try to turn the engine forward and back. You want to get the rotors moving again without the chunk of carbon bitching an apex seal when it comes loose.
When you get the rotors moving again, pull the plugs and spray the business ends with carbon cleaner to flush out any fluid that may be in them. Then gently but firmly tap the ends against your wrist to knock out the fluid. Finally, take a lighter and hold it up to the end to burn off whatever's left. If you don't clean your plugs your 7 may not start.
Throw the plugs back in and fire her up!
This is just what we did and it worked. If someone has a better method for freeing up the carbon, please share it.

Carbon lock.
This happened with a 7 I was working on this past fall. It sounds like what's happened to you.
Don't freak. The engine isn't pooched. But you need to get whatever little chunk of carbon is in there OUT.
It would help to get either some ATF or fuel injector cleaner like Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes and let it sit for 8 hours before you attempt this. Just a few ounces in each rotor will do (put the oil in the upper plug holes - leave the bottom plugs in when you do this or the fluid may come out there.) With luck, the carbon is below the holes and the fluid will break it down.
You can either attack this from the front by working the main pulley or from behind and below by pulling out the starter and turning the flywheel with a prybar.
I have a ratcheting breaker bar so we hit it from the front.
VERY gently try to turn the engine forward and back. You want to get the rotors moving again without the chunk of carbon bitching an apex seal when it comes loose.
When you get the rotors moving again, pull the plugs and spray the business ends with carbon cleaner to flush out any fluid that may be in them. Then gently but firmly tap the ends against your wrist to knock out the fluid. Finally, take a lighter and hold it up to the end to burn off whatever's left. If you don't clean your plugs your 7 may not start.

Throw the plugs back in and fire her up!
This is just what we did and it worked. If someone has a better method for freeing up the carbon, please share it.
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