killalot13601

iTrader: (5)

Dude, really...

This thread is AMAZING. I never pay super attention to every post made in a thread. This; I did. Dude, you really don't understand how you are making you're self look.

70% of you're awnsers are straight jokes. You know nothing about anyone on this thread yet you claim were all the kiddies. Dude, what does being able to drink have to do with knowledge? I'm 19. When i was 17 I successfully turbo'd a 6 port. Theres 14 year olds that could quite possibly know tons more about this specific car than I do, I gaurentee there is.

You're coming off as a ricer troll.

I'm coming off as a harsh jerk but you can clearly see not a single person in this thread has taken you seriously. So go ahead and buy a stage 5 brain and start thinking about what you say.

40.60 brake bias? You've got to be kidding me! Explain to us why you think thats a good choice. Prove me wrong. I would have no problem with that.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Is it just me or is a thread that is basically asking "Hey guys! What is your setup to endanger others on public roads?" just going to receive a negative reaction? Hmm...

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/

They like you better there, Bye!

Post of the year nominee.

rnz520

iTrader: (10)

Damn guys no need to be so rough, just educate the man on why his set up is wrong.
You shouldnt run positive camber if you want your car to handle half decently, a slight amount of negative is what you want for street/track car. If it was only track you could run a lot more, but your tires wont last.
Also, with a 40/60 brake split, your *** end is going to be very very VERY nervous under braking, you might want to run a 60/40, now that would work a lot better.
You have to remember, when you brake, your weight transfers to the front, putting more strain on front brakes, which is why the front calipers and rotors are bigger. With a 60% split in the back, once the weight comes off the tires will lock up and you will be spinning around if you dont expect it.
Also, I really reccommend going to an autocross, even if you are not set up for it, it will teach you a lot about your car.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

wtf???

the OP needs to drive his car instead of worrying about his settings, pure and simple.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Instead of lashing back at us for criticizing your logic, please address the query regarding:

-Positive Camber
-40F/60R Brake bias

If you wish, I can PM you a TON of information concerning suspension/brakes.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

i guess this reminds all of us... that it's not about the car, but the driver. that sounded really gay right now.... but it's showing up. do some research on some topics so you know what you're getting yourself into. I'm only 18, but I do the research, I go out and experience the differences between running positive and negative camber, I set my camber negative and notice the difference in grip while I take hard corners.

I've only been into cars for over a year, but research helps. research and experience. My car is not bone stock, but it sure as hell used to be. I don't care that you have the money to make your car so great, I don't care that you may smoke me on the straight aways, or blow past me on the corners. I find that a more experienced driver/mechanic is somebody with limited means who is able to overcome obstacles easily surpassed by people who have an unlimited supply of resources.

Use logic in your thinking about racing... it's all mechanical logic, dynamics, g forces... yup. Why does negative camber work? I believe it is because when your car is turning, it transfers the weight to the other side, and since that side is slanted in the negative camber direction, it provides more grip. In the case of using positive camber, it will actually hinder the ability for a car to grip since it will be slanted the other way. See... logic. Now, anybody is free to correct me, and I will not be insulted. I will see it as a learning process, something that is required in autocross, drifting, anything to deal with cars.

You may have your Stage 1 emission upgrade, your suspension that's Oh so great, and the money to do a LS1 swap, but so what? Will peole want to go tandem drifting with you because of what you have in your car? I don't think so. So what if my car has a bunch of suspension goodies now... I'm still running N/A. I'm still hindered by a lot of factors, but I'm always open to learning.

I'm trying to go turbo, but I've done my research. I'm still learning about it, I'm still learning about rotaries. Okay, that's it. Just use the search button, or go to a rotary shop and start asking questions. If you don't know... ask. Believe me... it helps.

Anyways, my setup for touge or autocross is:
Racing beat sway bars
KYB AGX all around, all set on the hardest setting
Racing Beat springs
Rear camber is at -2%(havent bought a rear camber adjuster, but it works perfectly),
front camber is also negative, found it gives me more grip taking corners or onramps or... just turns haha.

yet to put in the dtss eliminators... tried but couldn't get the axle out... long story

all have let me reach stage 6 perfection... ohhhhhyeahhhh haha jk
as for power... who cares, it's n/a and personally, I see handling as key. Until i go turbo



edit: oh yeah, and for that last comment i quoted. I dont care if you have connections with shops.... I do my **** myself, maybe help from one or two friends. I have money, I have the means to get some stuff done by shops... but why waste the money? Read the FSM or research how to do a LS1 swap yourself.... it'll be more rewarding than a $20k bill.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

look up the FSM. It will give you a brief description of what models came with open end and limited slip differentials, as well as viscous type and clutch type. But, they are 20 year old cars. People do swap them off. Just start looking at pictures to tell. Jack the rear of the car up, and turn one wheel. if the other one turns in the same direction, you got yourself a lsd... correct me if i'm wrong.

open ends would turn the oposite directions. s5 n/a's did not come with LSD, except for the GTUs, but I do believe that the s5 differential is a viscous type. I've never drifted a viscous type diff, but I heard it's bad. I have a 1988 gtu, so it's equipped with a clutch type lsd. all tII's come standard with lsd. again, correct me if Im wrong.

just go out and buy a kaaz 2-way. I mean... if 900 bucks is nothing, why not?

fcdrifter13

I like my carpet I dont think ill ever cut it lol. I do however want the light weight carpet found in a certain T2

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

unwritten rule of rx7club , dont discuss your plans if you dont want to face criticism

fcdrifter13

Meh I think the only real difference between the infini carpet and the regular carpet is the lack of sound deadening, but i could be wrong. I just never got the point in the floor bar lol.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

if you wanna get good at drifting you need to eat over9000 bacons.

Rexpelagi

Haha I might get to read all this again if he goes there.

Back on topic though, some people have given good answers for you. People on this forum just like to have fun with new people from time to time.

Blitanicle99

From re reading everything posted and read, yes I run alot of camber and to my understanding positive camber (correct terminology) is where the bottom of your tire sticks out more than the top, creating more traction when in a turn because of all the weight distribution of the car into the tire. If I am wrong on this, let me know. Hell, I could be saying positive and meaning negative Camber. Bad Terminology FTL
And yes, I run more brake in the rear. Reason being is because if I over shoot a turn, I can tap the brakes just a bit, it will jerk the rear end a little bit and I can just light the tires through the turn until the turn is complete. I do not have a proportioning valve that I can do this right now, however in a few days the car will be transported to the shop to be torn apart. I will be doing my brake kit then I believe and if I remember Ill try and track down a proportion valve that I can mount in the cab.





Well thank you muffin.



Again, maybe the proportioning I have wrong? I want the car to cut in if if I bump the brakes in a corner if I over shoot. Thus, more power to the rear brakes?

Why? I can drive the car all day and only get so far. Improving the car's performance with simple tuning and tweaks.

Again, maybe I mean I am running negative camber. IIRC positive camber is where bottom of your tire sticks out to create more traction in a turn however ruining my tires. And 40 F 60 R should create the car to jut in if a turn is over shot at too much speed. If this is done correctly I can just break traction in the rear end and regain my lines with a simple drift.

Man I don't want to argue with different things you said in your post. However in a nutshell, I will be doing the LS1 swap itself myself, however Vengeance will be supplying and building and tuning the motor. The actual swap I will be doing and my buddy Dave Ciporkin of Lethal Injection will be wiring it up for me.

I dunno, I for sure have a clutch type LSD. I am 100 % positive, I would not be able to kick clutch it like I can without an LSD in it.

And Ill have to build the rear end anyway for all that power of the LS1, so Ill consider it.

rnz520

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=Blitanicle99;8824903]From re reading everything posted and read, yes I run alot of camber and to my understanding positive camber (correct terminology) is where the bottom of your tire sticks out more than the top, creating more traction when in a turn because of all the weight distribution of the car into the tire. If I am wrong on this, let me know. Hell, I could be saying positive and meaning negative Camber. Bad Terminology FTL
And yes, I run more brake in the rear. Reason being is because if I over shoot a turn, I can tap the brakes just a bit, it will jerk the rear end a little bit and I can just light the tires through the turn until the turn is complete. I do not have a proportioning valve that I can do this right now, however in a few days the car will be transported to the shop to be torn apart. I will be doing my brake kit then I believe and if I remember Ill try and track down a proportion valve that I can mount in the cab.


Yea you been meaning negative camber all along haha, its ok just a confusion problem. Glad thats straightened out.

Also I get what you are trying to say with your brake set-up being like that, but the backwards distribution will create such LONG braking distances that the time you will lose will completely offset any advantage you will have in being able to swing the end around with a tap of the brakes, remember, you should always brake in a straight line going into a corner.
Do more bias towards the front, like that you will always break in time to make the corner and wont have to do any midcorner corrections, that just means you lose time by not taking the right line.
I will say if you get a chance to get that valve (which btw I would love to have one) take it to an autocross event and find the settings you like, it could be 50/50 or 70/30, or hell, even 40/60, but I doubt that one working in your favor. Please DO NOT do it on the streets, your chances of spinning around and getting tboned are too high to be worth it.
Also before you do LS1 you should learn your car and how it handles at the limit, it will help you a lot once you do go LS1

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

No problem babycakes. Keep runnin' in the nineties.

WingsofWar

Blitanicle99

BTW, Merry Xmas everyone. Oh and I am used to people messing with new people, I have been on Import Atlanta and pirate 4x4 the two sites you do not want to post idiot comments.


Confusion FTL lol. Anyways, I only plan on running a different brake bias on the track, this car is not my daily and I only drive it on the weekends or when I go to a car meet ill take it out. Otherwise, I daily an F250 Diesel on 34s, talk about a completely different driving style lol.

And as for breaking my line, I understand that the exit of the corner is much more important than the entrance, however there is nothing stating that I can't slide through the turn and power out of it. I can keep the same speed but keep my power band in good range and be able to catch any speed I lost almost instantly. (It works in my head?)


I have no idea what you mean lol

Rexpelagi

Instead of using the brakes to kick out the rear mid-turn if you are understeering why not just blip the throttle? It would have the same effect (assuming there is enough power to do it) and you wouldn't have to sacrifice braking performance.

Tofuman FC3S

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, my FC is stock. Exept for the "Stage 1" dents and "Stage 2" scraches tho...

Anyways, I'm not hating on you, just trying to have a good/fun time together with while we figure out how to help you.

You want good front braking, so you can tap the brakes and shift weight to the front, making the rear wanna step out easier. If you need instant loss of grip in the rear, use the handbrake to lock the rear wheels.

Riz.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I guess you can powerslide through turns if you can afford the tires.

But still, the fastest drivers around barely break traction in the corners. Take a look at Formula 1.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You learn much more by driving all day than simple tweaks.

Here's an adage that I know a lot of racers swear by. Most fast drivers are fast in spite of their setup, not because of it.

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

Amen, seat time is the best investment you can make. Hence why we are suggesting you make it out to an auto-x.

theeliteone3

Agreed, using throttle oversteer is a much better way to achieve your desired result of more turn in. Setting brake bias at 40/60 as mentioned is a foolish way to achieve better turn in and will actually destabilize your car and increase your likelihood of loosing control of you car and getting into an accident.

What wheel and tire setup will you be using? A better solution would be to use a staggered setup and increase bump and rebound damping in the rear until you reach your desired amount of oversteer. If your problem is only needing more oversteer in mid-turn just increasing rebound damping in the rear may achieve your desired results. Depending on your wheel setup I would recommend a higher spring rate in the rear. Additionally, increasing negative camber in the front can increase turn-in response... as will increasing rear toe-in.

rnz520

iTrader: (10)

Deff a Gallo 24...