Alrightly this is sorta my inform others and learn from thread.

My weekend driver is my 86 GLX Rx7. Quite a bit done to it.
Stage 1 emissions
Six port Actuator something or other
Racing beat header, Corkspork Catback (Heat wrapped of coarse)
Mazda Trix short shifter
Tokico Shocks, Tokico Springs 8k front, 6k Rear
DTSS Elimination
Stage 1 Axis brake pads
Steel clutch Line
Turbo 2 Pressure Plate
Turbo 2 Slave Cylinder
88 GLX diff 4.30 Gears
Nardi Steering Wheel
Rear Cusco Three Piece Brace
Front Strut Bar


*Currently the brakes need work, doesn't stop like I want it to and have a hesitation around 3500-3800 RPMs almost like it looses fuel for a second.
*In a few days the car will be towed to my shop in Daleonaga, GA for a basic Roll cage and paint/body work.

What setups are you guys running? Any suggestions for better brakes? I don't know where to start.

 

Hawk pads are the normal upgrade for harder use. The stock brake setup in OE working condition is better than most. A seat would be on my next list of things to get.

Also what is this stage crap.

 

You drive touge and you forgot to list the most important parts of the car? Alignment? Tires? Seems like your cheapest and easiest "mod" would be to educate yourself on driving and suspension/chassis modifications and tuning. Read a book.

Hawk pads are great, only $50 for a pair. The stock pads suck compared to the hawks, crappy braking performance and they fade with short runs. Upgrade the brake fluid to DOT 4. If you plan on pulling the trans soon I would get a lightened flywheel, it helps with rev-matching and engine braking. The hesitation may be grounds, you should clean them. Aaron cake's site has a write-up on it I believe.

 

LOL. If it wasn't dark I'd snap a picture of my car. You can see the rear camber with stock rims. The previous owner used it as a drift car he only drove at events and rarely around town. The toe is kicked in just a little bit for some better cornering. It seems to drive very straight and I have no wobble what soever at speeds of 120+ (not that I do that everyday, just to see what it would do)

Also forgot to mention I do have a Corbeau Racing Seat with 4 point harnesses. I'm strapped in that sucker. Did I mention the car is gutted down to 2100 without gas?

 

Werd. CHECK OUT MY STAGE 50 ****, DAWG.

 

What is this "stage 1 emissions"?

 

Tokico Shocks, Tokico Springs 8k front, 6k Rear


Are the tokico shocks valved to handle those type of spring rates?

 

Stage 1 emissions block off kit. Like no cold start valves no EGR, everything is blocked, no air pumps, majority of the vacuum system is blocked off except for what the car needs to run on.

And as far as I know, yes they are valved to do so. Rides nice and stiff.

 

Hawk pads, no doubt they are quality but the customer service...

 

So why call it stage 1? Sounds to me like you've removed all the emissions. Is there a stage 2? What will that consist of?











Just givin' ya a hard time

 

Hawk pads
stainless/Teflon lines
ATE synthetic fluid ... maybe rebuild/replace master cylinder while you're at it.

you can't go wrong!

 

Maybe "Stage 2" is getting fined for poluting the enviroment? In that case: Atleast he's thinking ahead...

Riz.

BTW: My engine is in "Stage 2" currently. That's one stage after new, but one stage prior to rebuilt... :-)

 

Dangerous. In a crash, the shoulder straps will pull the lap belt up into your guts and you won't like the results on your insides. You can also submarine out from under it and suffer all sorts of injuries. You really need a 5-point or even a 6-point. 6-point keeps the boys safer and in more comfort since it has two sub straps off to the sides instead of one strap right up the middle.

 

I've had good results with thicker anti-sway bars front and rear, so I'd look into that if you don't have it. No one around here will understand what you're saying with that "stage" stuff as there aren't "stage III" chip upgrades or "Stage II" exhaust being marketed by anyone for RX-7s.

 

Haha, no worries. And its just what the previous owner called it. I see everything blocked off so its definitely there I guess just named wrong?

Thats about what I was looking to do, I have heard the stock brakes are pretty good because of the weight of these cars. The fronts are 4 piston and 2 piston rears?

Hmm, I did no know that. Guess I will be using it for my passenger belt and getting a 5/6 point harness for myself. MMM Cage goes in first tho

 

You forgot to listen to eurobeat while you are driving. Use the gutter trick.

 

What so your passenger can eat it if you crash? Be aware that if you're planning to attend any driving schools with it (which you absolutely should do!) where an instructor rides along, they're going to require equal seating and harnesses for both sides.

The rears are single piston slider type calipers. I'd recommend doing brake ducts on the fronts so you don't cook them.

I'd also recommend attending sanctioned track events instead of risking a nasty crash hours away from potential help on a mountain pass. Where do you live? There are good organizations with access to world-class tracks all over the place.

 

Sway bars would be a great addition to your setup.
Check your grounds and clean them up, that hesitation your getting is super common in FC's.

 

You know your a ricer when you refer to your emissions changes in Stages....

Oh, and upgrade to a 5 or 6 point harness. 4pt are not good for street use. Ask someone that's been in accidents with 4 pt and 5-6pt harnesses. They will tell you the 5-6 pt harnesses are much safer.

A 4 pt may keep you in your seat well under normal driving conditions as will a 5-6 pt, but its what happens in the event of a collision where there is a major difference.

 

Eh, I have the RB front bar, and took off the rear bar.

 

 

Auto-cross is your best bet for learning your car.

If you are a student and under 24, show them the student ID and you'll pay a total of 20 bucks for that day's race.

Do not use racing harnesses without some sort of roll protection. You will likely suffer neck injuries or worse in a rollover.

 

I call BS on that.

The 4.30 gear set came only from the 89/90 GTUs models.(yes and the infini's in japan, but they were only for TII diffs).

 

Actually the few places I've seen do have that requirement. I've never seen any track that said otherwise, but I haven't looked at that many. That rule is definitely out there though, whether it's a standard across the board or not.

 

best laugh ive had all day.

i want stage 1 emissions. i have stage 12 now but its too much for the canyons so i have to down grade. pm me if interested in trading.