exquivical

I'm getting some vibrations that continually get worse the faster I get. It's "clunking" on and off load (sounds like its coming from directly under the car). I can actually get it to make the noise if I blip the throttle a few times.

If it's a U-Joint, they are replaceable for cheap, right? In the land of BMW world, you have to replace the whole driveshaft, but I figured it wouldn't be the case with a 7.

BTW, I have an 88SE if that matters.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it could be driveshaft. Check under car and see if joints have play, even if you need to remove shaft from rear. Check any excessive play in rear, along with trans mount. And yes, if you need joints, they are not replaceable. Most get a used one. New around $250.

exquivical

Thanks....dangit!!! I was hoping the u-joint was replaceable. Oh well. I'll take a look at the trans. mount too, but judging from past experiences and different cars, I think I'll end up having to replace the driveshaft. Thanks again.

deadRX7Conv

Here are new ones with replaceable ujoints.
http://mazdatrix.com/g4.htm

If you can't replace them, maybe a driveshaft shop can replace the ujoints for you. Anything assembled should be capable of dissassembly.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=83551

exquivical

I'm just going to pickup a used one. The swapout isn't that painful is it? A driveshaft is a driveshaft, but when I changed the pads on my RX that through me for a loop at first too (anyone that's done this should know what I'm talking about).

opelbits

iTrader: (5)

I had similiar symptoms, but it was a bad rod end on one of the angled links in the back. Forgot what they are called but they are about 15" long and at about a 45 degree angle.

exquivical

Can anyone elaborate on this? I'm going to try and get it on the lift tonight and take a look at it.

bignatedogg

please more info here too. when i put my clutch in it does the exact same thing. they told me it was the trans mount bushing, it wasnt there but i have put rubber in thereand it still clunks. its not the right bushing but it is rubber. im lost too so dont feel bad man

Audiofight

Damn,

No one ever listens to me! I have access to replaceable U-joints for these damn cars and have rebuilt my driveshaft.

A new pair will run you $44.95 shipped.

duffles

what, how, when, tf do you do this im in need of info audiofight. pm me with details. i am also subscribed to this thread.

BlackRx7

Yep that happened to me, and I ignored it untill one while cruzing at 40mph my front U-joint broke off, the drive shaft took out my shifter column on my tranny also, I just got a used one at the junk yard and it was as good as new

pjtj2

iTrader: (3)

Audiofight,
Where'd you find the u-joints and how bad was the installation? If anyone else can help finding these please reply. BTW, is the convertible driveshaft the same length as the coupe? Thanks

Cheers!

i would check your engine, tranny and diff mounts before the drive shaft.... i have hte same clunking/shudder underload and getting off load... and i have checked hte U joints, they are good.

but the tranny mount is no good.... the tranny mount where the tranny sits on... i can push the tranny around with my hand...

so check mounts first.

Samps

My front U-joint went bad and it made that nasty clanking noise that comes from right under the shifter. I had checked the rear U-joint a few times and it was always fine. Most people think the rear is the one that gives out but my front joint was almost completely snapped off. It actually got to the point where the driveshaft itself was no longer good. I cracked the fingers on the front of the driveshaft making it impossible to rebuild without some sort of welding. Your symptoms sound very much like mine so I suggest you remove the drive shaft and check the front joint. You can remove it in your own driveway with a jackstand and a simple floor jack. You will need to remove the four bolts on the rear off the shaft, then unbolt the heat shild that runs under it. Once the heat shield is released you can then wiggle the shaft and get the front to slide out. Check it real good. But from the sound of it you will most likely notice that alot of material is missing from the front u-joint and the play should be obvious. Getting the new one back in a as simple as getting the front shaft to line up with the tranny. Just be patient and wiggle it around for awhile and it will eventualy slide back in. Now you won't be ashamed to drive through a crouded parking lot with a clunking car.

exquivical

I still haven't got off my tail and put it on the lift and looked at it. It's very tolerable up until 46+mph (it's sad I know the exact mph of unbearable vibration). I'm going to look at it in the next couple days to come so I don't have an incident like BlackRx7.

I'll definitely pickup the replaceable u-joint from you Audiofight if it is indeed the driveshaft.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you updated and checkout your other suggestions.

exquivical

"Now you won't be ashamed to drive through a crouded parking lot with a clunking car."

That was the confirmation I needed

Now I'm really 99.9% sure it's the driveshaft.

Samps

Even better way to relate your symptoms to mine:

Does yours get the vibration when "on" throttle but goes away slightly when letting off the gas?

exquivical

Yep.

exquivical

U-Joint. Replacing driveshaft. My tech friend at the shop got a kick out of it that I was actually driving my car around. It was BAAAAD.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It's VERY hard if not impossible to check the driveshaft with it still on the car - you really need to pull it off to inspect it.

NA driveshafts give up the ghost usually sometime in the early 100,000 mile area. I've YET to see a TurboII driveshaft have bad U-joints - I have no idea why.

Used NA driveshafts that are good aren't super easy to come by, BTW. You can get them rebuilt some times - it just depends on the circumstances.

Dale