Bad/no idle, Sickly rich, and I'm ready to break down because of it.
Bad/no idle, Sickly rich, and I'm ready to break down because of it.
K. So, I adjusted my throttle cable as best as I could. Then I adjusted my TPS so it had a smooth sweep from 1-5K. But, it still is a royally screwed idle. When I start it, it'll rev to about 3 K, fine by me. But it won't come down, so I pull up on the pedal a bit, it's come down to about 2K, but lopes a bit. But as soon as I give it any gas at all, it shoots right back up to 3K after I let off. So, I'm completely lost about that. I don't have any vac leaks. I fixed the last one earlier today. It's an S4 GXL swapped to a Jspec, by the way. So, that's my idle problem. Now onto my rich problem.
It runs rich.........very rich. And I have no clue why. I've tried searching, but haven't been able to find anything. Not to mention the search function is teh suxors when you use AOL.
It runs rich.........very rich. And I have no clue why. I've tried searching, but haven't been able to find anything. Not to mention the search function is teh suxors when you use AOL.
Have you tried pulling ECU codes???
As Wayne88N/A says.... you can solve ALOT of problems by starting there to solve your problems.
When your car starts, its supposed to stay at 3K... does it idle at 2-3K ALL the time? Or only when you start it.
BTW.. if you want it to not rev to 3K when you get the car fixed... start the car with it in gear.
Have you checked your BAC valve? Could be stuck open.
As Wayne88N/A says.... you can solve ALOT of problems by starting there to solve your problems.
When your car starts, its supposed to stay at 3K... does it idle at 2-3K ALL the time? Or only when you start it.
BTW.. if you want it to not rev to 3K when you get the car fixed... start the car with it in gear.
Have you checked your BAC valve? Could be stuck open.
Last edited by poor_red_neck; Aug 22, 2004 at 05:26 PM.
Pull at least one connector off of the temp switch at the lower left hand corner of the rad- start her up again, she shouldn't go to 3K this time, she should settle around 1500, give or take, until she warms up...If not, you have a vac leak, your fast idle cam is adjusted WAY off, your FPR isn't doing it's job, or something is screwy with AFM, TPS, or temp sensor inputs to the ECU. Keep in mind that we all run rich a bit on a cold start & at idle...To see how she's running during cruise, either read out your O2 sensor from the ECU (see the "troubleshooting...ECU" thread I just made), or get a simple A/F gauge...
No, even after warmup, it idles at 3K. I have an a/f gauge, and it reads rich during cruise. I just tried taking off the onme connector. It did settle right arount 1500 but when I have it any gas, it settled right at 3K again.
Think you just answered your own question...
BTW, you may want to check your TPS using voltage (approx 1 volt at the green/red wire to ground, S4's), this will give you a better idea of what the ECU is actually seeing as an input...
BTW, you may want to check your TPS using voltage (approx 1 volt at the green/red wire to ground, S4's), this will give you a better idea of what the ECU is actually seeing as an input...
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K,so the rich problem's taken care of. Where would I get another FPR? How much are they? And, are they universal? I wasn't aware that I needed a newer one, though it makes sense, more fuel=more of a need to regulate that flow. The green/red wire on the shock tower? Youcan IM me at yamahamxracer02 if it'd be easier.
No, the green/red coming off of the TPS sensor, at the connector...Or at the ECU, if you're adventurous...
Gonna have to find somebody running the Walbro to answer your FPR question...
Gonna have to find somebody running the Walbro to answer your FPR question...
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