Bad engine ground
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6
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From: seattle, wa
My 89 'vert quits when slowing quickly into turns. I had a similar problem a few years back and the shop told me it was a loose engine ground. Where can I find this in the engine copmartment and fix it?
Any other idieas on what might be causing this problem?
Any other idieas on what might be causing this problem?
Probably a dirty pre-fuel filter in the gas tank, or rusted out gas tank baffels
I'd check that first before the grounds, but I always recommend replacing and upgrading the factory ground wires to the motor and battery as well.
I'd check that first before the grounds, but I always recommend replacing and upgrading the factory ground wires to the motor and battery as well.
Full Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 50
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From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Battery Ground
I had the same problem in my 1988 TII. I fixed it by running a 10 gauge wire from the negative (duh!) terminal on the battery to the firewall. This worked. It also got rid of the dreaded 3800 RPM "hesitation", for me anyway. If that doesn't work it probably wouldn't hurt to clean your battery terminals OR even get a new battery
! Also, there are several other grounding points that are important. The main one is the ground wire which runs from the ECU and grounds in the engine compartment. Another one is the one that leads from the battery to the firewall as above. It looks to be only around 22 gauge so it won't carry much current!But running that 10 gauge wire as per the above will eliminate that as a potential problem and MAY even make a difference in other "problem areas" of your RX. Good luck!
! Also, there are several other grounding points that are important. The main one is the ground wire which runs from the ECU and grounds in the engine compartment. Another one is the one that leads from the battery to the firewall as above. It looks to be only around 22 gauge so it won't carry much current!But running that 10 gauge wire as per the above will eliminate that as a potential problem and MAY even make a difference in other "problem areas" of your RX. Good luck!
I slapped 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the chassis, and from the engine to the chassis. My problem is with cutting off (or seemingly) on hard left turns. Nothing better to do today than to pull out the fuel pump and check the screen everyone talks about...
Kinda off subject but for some reason every time I get close to my car I get shocked. It just happens on my 7. Any answers why????? Could it be b/c of my grounded amp to my seat bolt(what bolts the seat to the car)?
kleach
kleach
Originally posted by kleach18
Kinda off subject but for some reason every time I get close to my car I get shocked. It just happens on my 7. Any answers why????? Could it be b/c of my grounded amp to my seat bolt(what bolts the seat to the car)?
kleach
Kinda off subject but for some reason every time I get close to my car I get shocked. It just happens on my 7. Any answers why????? Could it be b/c of my grounded amp to my seat bolt(what bolts the seat to the car)?
kleach
I have no idea about the answer, but the question is the best one Ive ever heard
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Originally posted by kleach18
Kinda off subject but for some reason every time I get close to my car I get shocked. It just happens on my 7. Any answers why????? Could it be b/c of my grounded amp to my seat bolt(what bolts the seat to the car)?
kleach
Kinda off subject but for some reason every time I get close to my car I get shocked. It just happens on my 7. Any answers why????? Could it be b/c of my grounded amp to my seat bolt(what bolts the seat to the car)?
kleach
just kidding.
How bad are you getting shocked? instant like static electrical shock or an running shock?
Either way only Micky Mouse grounds his amps to the seat bolts. That should be fixed and the amp should be grounded to its own ground bolt or screw or a factory ground point rather than the seat (which is a horrible ground).
Originally posted by Josepi
I slapped 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the chassis, and from the engine to the chassis. My problem is with cutting off (or seemingly) on hard left turns. Nothing better to do today than to pull out the fuel pump and check the screen everyone talks about...
I slapped 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the chassis, and from the engine to the chassis. My problem is with cutting off (or seemingly) on hard left turns. Nothing better to do today than to pull out the fuel pump and check the screen everyone talks about...
). Here's what I did.1. Move carpeting and insulation.
2. Traced and found fuel pump connector.
3. Unplugged FP while car was running, it ran for a few seconds and cut off.
4. Tried starting the car a few more times to get any possible fuel outa the lines.
5. Removed cover for fuel pump.
6. Removed left hose (to engine), it was pretty dry.
7. Removed right hose (this one is the fuel return and is full of gas...I found out the hard way, use vice grips to clamp down on the hose and then remove it...I can still smell gasoline after 2 showers
)8. Removed 8 small screws holding the FP to the tank.
9. Lifted, turned 90 degrees and removed from tank.
10. Remove small screw at base of pump that holds filter, bracket, and rubber thingy.
11. Removed rubber thingy.
12. Removed filter.
13. Cleaned filter with paint thinner. Rinsed in gasoline, and used a really small needle to go in between the mesh of the filter. Rinsed again. (Maybe this is why I smell like petrol chemicals today...)
14. Dried filter via compressed air.
15. Reassembled.
So far so good, real test I think is going to be when the fuel gets down to around 1/4 tank, when the problem seemed to occur more. I took it out for a test drive and pulled a few hard lefts with around 3/4 tank and it never cut off. Into work this morning, a sharp turn that it sometimes (80%) cuts out on went by smoothly without incident (SWEET!). I'll let everyone know if that is what fixed it, I know it wasn't the grounds because I did those before (bout a week).
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befarrer
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