Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

So I've been having a lot of trouble with my electrical system since I bought my car. The battery is ALWAYS dead, no matter how much i charge it/replace it. There's a short or something in the harness, but I have no idea where. I already rewraped the passenger half of the harness in the engine bay, and when I was there I fixed some cracked wires. only thing that accomplished was making my clock randomly start working again. while i had the mani off i decided to remove my rats nest.

now when I try to crank her, the car will start 3/4 times then instantly die before the battery is too drained to turn the starter.

I have almost no vacuum hoses left. and they are all new silicone, so I can't find my vac leak (if thats even why my car will die right away). The odd thing is that no matter how much gas i give it, it will always die in the same amount of time. I put in an safc as well, but its set to 0% correction, so I don't think it could cause this.

Then when i was messing with the IC clamps to see where my vac leak could be i touched the ic pipe to the intake mani with a screwdriver, and SPARKS. there is a voltage of exactly the voltage the battery has between the IC pipe and the upper intake manifold.

SUMMARY:
my car starts then dies
the battery wont hold a charge while the car is off
it has always had a battery problem since i bought it, but it keeps getting worse
i have replaced the battery/alt/starter/ign switch with no luck
i recently removed rats nest/installed safc/rewrapped half the wiring harness
before i had done these things the car ran perfectly fine except you couldn't ever get it started again because of the battery.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

dunno but i wish my TII was as pretty as yours . . . its been molested and negleted

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

check the Plug(connector) on the back of the alternator..also check all connections that pertain to the charging and Starting system.another Idea is check the wiring inbetween the alternator and the Keg..OH..Check the intercooler Piping(check the clamps,make sure that they are not Touching a Positive),sometimes it Interferes with the Alternator..it tends to short out there.Good luck...(if you had a spark when touching the piping to GROUND,then something is Wrong in That area)

Icemark

Current draw is??? (did you test for current draw?)
Voltage when starting is???
Voltage when running was???

Stock alt?
Alt or alt wires touching the intercooler?

And a short blows fuses or melts wires. If you have a draw it is because something aftermarket is wired wrong or you have a switch busted and on somewhere.


.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

i dont know the current draw.
the standing voltage is about 12.5 and it slowly decreases
the running voltage is about 14
I swapped to an s5 alt. but I've always had the same problem since I bought the car.
there are a bunch of soldered wires in the engine bay, but I have no idea what they are. they look like they used to be for an alarm or something, but i didnt install it, and its not there anymore.

alt wires aren't touching the IC

there are also a bunch of cut wires under the dash too. I have no idea where they are from either.

Icemark

was the alt every re-wired correctly for the S5 alt?

If not, then that is your draw problem

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you need to figure out all the aftermarket wiring. somebody screwed something up.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

the alt was rewired as per a diagram that HAILERS made.
this problem has existed since I bought the car.
when I bought the car everything was stock.

The electrical problem isn't as bad as the stalling though. if I could get it to stop stalling, I could at least drive it.
could the safc be causing this? I put the correction to 0%...
where could there be a vac leak big enough to stall the car out almost instantly?

Icemark

Most stalling issues are from a improperly set or bad TPS, or a bad BAC or a vac leak.

And you need to get a digital multi-meter and check the draw. I suspect that you have a relay, or aftermarket device, or light wired on all the time if the alt is wired correctly.

Of course unplugging the small two pin plug on the alt and seeing if the car stops draining ther battery overnight would also confirm that alt is wired correct or not.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

is your SAFC wired correctly? if the AFM in and out wires for the safc are backwards it wont get any afm signal to the ecu, and will rev up and die as u describe.

also is your SAFC settings set to use an AFM and the correct setting number??

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

I got a chance to mess with her this weekend. It turns out the stalling was due to the SAFC being set wrong, so I just reset the sensors, and it was fine.

I started it with a jump and then fuel started to leak ou from about where the lower intake manifold meets the tranny. Its probobly the PD. figures, once you start one thing another breaks.

I had to leave so I didnt get a chance to unplug the alt for very long, but I rechecked the diagram, and then unplugged it and watched the volts. There was no difference in the 10 mins or so I had to test with the alt plugged in/unplugged.

I also found this strange black box ziptied under the dash right above the pedals. could it be stock?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

prolly not if it's zip-tied! lol.