Bad connection? Bad sensor?
OK... My car ran great as long as I've had it. Some guy drives all the way from Michigan today to get the car--and after you drive it for a minute it gets a CEL and loses almost all power... just putts around. You turn the car off turn it back on... runs like a champ again for a few blocks then wham... putts.
I went over most connections in the engine bay made sure everything was snug and connected and didn't see anything with issue.
Just urks me it does this now... Why not when I had it out a few weeks ago to wash and clean it up. I'm sure it's an easy fix, but it just cost me the sale of the car today. -=\
I went over most connections in the engine bay made sure everything was snug and connected and didn't see anything with issue.
Just urks me it does this now... Why not when I had it out a few weeks ago to wash and clean it up. I'm sure it's an easy fix, but it just cost me the sale of the car today. -=\
The whole point of this thread is to find out what the problem could be, and how to pull the engine codes. I did a search twice now and everytime I get some php parse error and the results don't display.
Download The Fuel Section Of The Free Online Fsm. There You'll See How To Download The Codes And What They Each Stand For. By The Way, It's The Omp That Has Gone Bad.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 17, 2005 at 01:18 PM.
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Sounds like time for premix =0
My only question now is.... When eliminating the MOP... do I NEED to remove the oil injectors and replace them with bolts. Can't I just leave the injectors in there, disconnected?
I ask because I need to have the car back running 100% asap and don't have anything to shorten the bolts I would use in place of the injectors.
My only question now is.... When eliminating the MOP... do I NEED to remove the oil injectors and replace them with bolts. Can't I just leave the injectors in there, disconnected?
I ask because I need to have the car back running 100% asap and don't have anything to shorten the bolts I would use in place of the injectors.
Last edited by Traiko; Oct 17, 2005 at 03:07 PM.
Originally Posted by Traiko
Sounds like time for premix =0
My only question now is.... When eliminating the MOP... do I NEED to remove the oil injectors and replace them with bolts. Can't I just leave the injectors in there, disconnected?
I ask because I need to have the car back running 100% asap and don't have anything to shorten the bolts I would use in place of the injectors.
My only question now is.... When eliminating the MOP... do I NEED to remove the oil injectors and replace them with bolts. Can't I just leave the injectors in there, disconnected?
I ask because I need to have the car back running 100% asap and don't have anything to shorten the bolts I would use in place of the injectors.
About the oil injectors.....you don't have to remove them. Just cap off the line that came from the MOP. Leave the air line attached. But then again, you have to deal with the ECU not seeing a MOP.
Also check the codes just in case I'm wrong.
Originally Posted by Traiko
Also, anyone know if the ecu senses the MOP as a resistance or is it logic?
I built a bypass modual about 2 years ago, to trick the ECU into thinking it was still there, but it would have cost about $100-$150 to sell, and since FC owners are typically very cheap, and there are not that many FC or FD's even with the MOP, I couldn't justfiy mass producing them.
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