So i'm in the process of trying to finish up the loose ends on the five speed swap on the FC. She runs and drives, but there are a few quirks left to get out.

Ever since the swap, the car literally takes about ten-20 seconds of cranking to start when cold. Prior to this, it never did it. Could be the battery on its way out though, I suppose. Since I remember when I had jumper cables connected to it from my rx8, I want to say it fired up right away. It is a few years old.

But anyway, I digress, when the car is cold, this is how it behaves. Once it warms up the idle stabilizes, although its a bit high. I can hear it missing pretty badly when I rev it too, Sparkplugs have been changed a few months ago, but then again if they were getting smoked like crazy they probably could use a good cleaning.

I'm thinking its either the BAC or Thermowax, or hell, maybe both?


Sorry for the atrocious mic, terrible cell phone. Also, anyone have any idea as to why my oil pressure is so high at those RPM's? Gauge is reading a hair under 60

 

Depends on which pressure valve you have for oil pressure. I wouldnt be too worried about it. Your idle. I would start checking for vacuum leaks, then check and adjust your idle per the fsm. Mine does this as well, but its because i have the set screw bumped in to try and offset the output of my alternator. I need to find a way to over drive it to compensate for the Taurus alternator.

 

oil pressure is about right for that rpm. when its warm it should hit 70psi before 3000rpm.

for the bouncing idle, the S5 has target idle speeds, and if your manual adjustment is too far out of the target zone, it will hunt just like your video. the thermowax, which is the thing that pushes the throttle open when the engine is cold, is adjustable, and its quite commonly air locked, or the hoses are plugged with crud.

the proper method for fixing this, is to warm it all the way up, set the base idle speed, and re-check the TPS. then if the cold idle is still too high, then look at the thermowax