back rotar not working?
back rotar not working?
ok so the engine is running off one rotar. We checked the spark to the back rotar and the spark is great, so are the spark plug wires. The engine starts and makes a putt putt sound and stays running if your foot is one the gas. we took out the spark plug and felt for any air coming out and yes there was 3 air shots. we reved it up a couple of days ago and it started running ok again, when i came to a stop and starting driving again it started putting really bad so i hit the gas and it eventually caught up and sounded normal again. Another interesting thing is i can only start the car if the fuel cut off switch is off, then once its started i have to turn it on. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Feb 19, 2007 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Remove 800K sig
thats what i was gonna say syonyk
also get a compression tester while you at it it never hurts to check, you might have a weak pulses but what is the comp on them is what matters
also get a compression tester while you at it it never hurts to check, you might have a weak pulses but what is the comp on them is what matters
Originally Posted by Syonyk
That sounds suspiciously like a bad (leaking & not firing properly) primary rear injector to me. Is there any fuel on the spark plug when you pull it out?
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
If you are mechanically inclined you can probably remove the injectors and have them cleaned, tested and refurbished with all new grommets, O-rings and pintle caps. You can't really "clean" the injectors effectively yourself. Send them off to Cruzinperformance.com or have a local injector shop rework them. While you're at it, replace the pulsation damper on the primary fuel rail which is a known failure point that has caused engine fires in these engines.
To access the injectors you need to remove the upper intake manifold/throttlebody and the fuel rails. Get a copy of the factory service manual from one of the links in the 2nd gen FAQ. Take a look at what this involves and decide if you want to tackle such a project. You can always find a rotary shop and have it done, but I would not advise you to continue driving a car with a fuel leak.
To access the injectors you need to remove the upper intake manifold/throttlebody and the fuel rails. Get a copy of the factory service manual from one of the links in the 2nd gen FAQ. Take a look at what this involves and decide if you want to tackle such a project. You can always find a rotary shop and have it done, but I would not advise you to continue driving a car with a fuel leak.
Originally Posted by DangerousCrew RX-7
i parked at the store that night and noticed a strange gas leak on the ground that spread about 5 feet from my car.
But, for diagnostic purposes, where was the leak? Under the engine bay?
If you're dumping fuel like that, you can often find the source of the leak (slightly) more safely by using the fuel pump test jumper. There's a yellow two-pin connector over near the passenger's side strut tower. Jumper this (I keep a paperclip in my glovebox for things like this), turn the key to the run position, and the fuel pump will run, pressurizing the fuel system. You can now look for leaks without the engine running (and heating the exhaust manifold/etc). Keep a fire extinguisher around, and wear safety glasses, but this might help you find the source of the leak.
-=Russ=-
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This guy had a small fuel leak too... 

Sounds like the sparkplug is fouled and/or the injector has a problem. When you tear the intake off to get to the injectors, replace your pulsation damper at the same time. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._dampener.html


Sounds like the sparkplug is fouled and/or the injector has a problem. When you tear the intake off to get to the injectors, replace your pulsation damper at the same time. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._dampener.html
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