btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i was in hunnington beach today at a gas station and my 90 rx7 glx non turbo didnt want to start. i took out the egi fuse and cranked it for about 6 seconds. the tried to start it again. it was stumbling and i gave it some gas and then it ran normally. i think its my bac valve. theres some rust on it check it out.

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=bacvalve.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/bacvalve.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

this is right under the intake at the throttle body. is this my bac valve? do you think this is why my car didnt want to turn on and was stumbling? is there any way to remove the rust? or do you recommend buying a new one?

also can anybody tell me a part number for this leaking part? i believe this is for my clutch. and thats my clutch release cylinder in the back right? my reverse lights dont work but the bulbs look okay. can anybody tell me how to clean the contacts on the reverse switch?
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=clutchleak.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/clutchleak.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

ive also attached some photos. can you identify the parts for me in the pictures. i hoping to find the tps. tps adjustment screw. and the valve for the aws. is the green or yellow connector for the test lamp test?

thanks for all your help!!!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The "rust" is from the coolant lines on the BAC leaking like crazy. Replace those hoses immediately along with every other hose on the motor. You're asking to blow a coolant line & motor leaving it like that. The coolant lines have little to do with BAC operation, they just maintain constant temp. The BAC is probably not your starting problem; it sounds like you have the typical leaky injector/flooding problem.

The hose going to your clutch slave cylinder needs desperate attention too. Get a new one from Mazda asap or you might get stranded somewhere when you can no longer shift.

The TPS is the black device with 2 plungers on the front side of the throttle body, and the TPS adjustment screw is on the throttle arm that the plungers rest against.

NoDOHC

First: Yes, that is the BAC valve. It could possibly be related to your problem (but I would guess that low compression is more likely. If the car revs then dies down at startup, the BAC is fine.

Second: Correct again, that is your clutch hose, supplying fluid pressure from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. You can gt one at any auto parts store (I got mine at NAPA).

Picture #1: That is the coolant supply to the themal wax on the AWS (auto warm up system.

Picture #2: Those two plungers compose the TPS the closer one is the low throttle TPS, while the other is the full range. The screw in the foreground is how you adjust it.

Picture #3: That is the connector to override the AFM and force the fuel pump to run when the key is on. The connector you are looking for is on the driver's side. A single green connector next to a larger green connector. You need to ground this to extract the codes.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/ TeamFC3s is good enough to host a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual). This will be a guiding beacon for you.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

thanks for you help.

so i need to replace all the hoses on my engine. whats the best way to clean away that rust from the bac valve? do you think i should just clean out the bac valve or replace it? im just asking because i dont have the money to right now. i would if i could.

as for the leaky injector/flooding problem, ill have to search the forum for solutions.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

oh an by the way. ive owned the car for about a month now. and since then ive never had to use the deflooding procedure to start the car. untill today that is. but almost always i turn the car on and it starts rough. i hit the gas and it gets better. is the rough start due to the bac valve or possible leaky injectors? the idle is a little weird. any recommendations on what to do to adjust my idle?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Idle adjustment is complicated if you haven't done it before. There should be a lot of threads on it, but the simplests adjustment are of the air bypass screw and the variable resistor. Search those terms to get more info and maybe some pictures.

Cleaning off the mineral deposits from the BAC water passage can be done with some scotchbrite. This will also be good for polishing away any rust. The water passage is really not necessary; I removed mine awhile back to get rid of some of the engine bay clutter, so don't worry about it somehow affecting the BAC's activation. Just clean up the metal and replace those coolant lines. The formed hoses from Mazda are expensive, but you can get away with using generic hose for most of the connections.

Formed lines needed: both heater hoses, throttle body to rear iron.

Generic lines: water pump to BAC, BAC to throttle body.

It's also a good idea to replace the silicon vacuum lines. Something like 20' of 3.5mm & 2' of 6mm line should cover it.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

do i have to drain the coolant from the radiator in order to remove the two coolant hoses from the bac valve?

HAILERS

No. You won't lose more than a cup of fluid if even that. Keep the water lines high after removing them so they don't dribble water. Common sense thing. Well, wait a minute. If you replace them you might lose a couple of cups of water. No sense in draining the radiator/block.

BAC valve...........when going to START with the key, the BAC goes full open as long as the key is to START. Has some effect on starting the engine. Seems holding the pedal open a bit would do the same thing.

HAILERS

So. What is that round black thing on the clutch line? It's not on a series four.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i dont know. some guy at autozone said it might be a filter.

while i was replacing the two bac valve hoses, i noticed some issues with my car. the temp gauge is erratic. it gets close to overheating but never does. and it shoots down to normal within seconds. anybody know what to do?

also i found this loose cable. next to my oil filter
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=oilfilter.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/oilfilter.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

heres another loose one. where should i connect this cable?
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=cable.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/cable.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

its grounded here! ontop of the tranny behind the engine
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=cable1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/cable1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


this picture looks like i have paper towels or something where a mount should be. i didnt notice the towels until i was upstairs uploading the pictures onto my computer. what do u guys think?
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=tranny.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/tranny.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

The grounding wire connects to a male spade terminal on the bulkhead/firewall up behind the intake manifold. The black thing on the clutch hydralic line is just nothing but a soft round thing

Rx-7fetish

Yep, it just stops the line from rubbing a hole in itself on something near it

I got one on my S4

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so does anyone know where this gets connected to?
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=oilfilter.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/oilfilter.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

and does this picture concern any of you?
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=tranny.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/tranny.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

should the bolt on the upper right hand corner be like that? and do you see the paper towels stuffed in the middle right hand side of the picture? thanks for all you help!

Rx-7fetish

The bolt is fine, its an exhaust hanger, the black box in the first pic should be bolted between the clutch slave cylinder and transmission, it grounds out the oil sending unit or something like that, it keeps the oil sending unit from going bad and giving you a false oil pressure reading.

Oh, and the paper towels look more like a thin rag, i wouldnt worry to much about it. Thats where the shifter enters the car, its prolly stuffed there to try and keep heat or noise out.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

yeah! thanks much for your help