Jaared

ok i know what the bac does...

and i think i know what the other valve does that in the pic...




I have no AC so what will the results be of the removal of these two things? Im guessing i will have to readjust my idle...

Where will i have to adjust my idle at with the BAC gone? the stop screw? If so then ill have to play with the tps also when adjusting idle...

What do i do with the vaccume and coolent lines and all that are hooked to these things?

jaared

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

egr

dont' remove the bac unless your serious.

makes the car a lot harder to idle at 750.

you have to manually set the butterflies and then mess with tps.

you lose the nice screw that mazda provided. I've run with out a bac for about a year now. It's fine one u get it tuned right.

coolant lines for thermo wax

so you have to reroute or take out.

i would recommend leaving that in (ran with out that for ever then put back in)

kill the egr leave the bac/thermo

that's my opinion

Jaared

Im talking abou the ACV.. thats what it is i think.

under the BAC and over the turbo.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

from

http://www.1300cc.com

NZConvertible

I agree with Sesshoumaru (except for one point). Leave the BAC valve in place at let it do it's job. It works well, so I can't see why everyone's so keen to remove it.

I also think the EGR valve should be left in place unless you're removed the vac rack. It's not in the way, you can barely see it, it has no effect on power (that's right, no effect), and it reduces fuel consumption. Again, I can't see why everyone's so keen to remove it if it's not faulty.

Jaared

Its the ACV i want to take out

the ACV... i know where the egr is.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

what are you doing about the cat?

Jaared

cat.... what cat....?


That pic if from the day i got the car. My list of mods shows that im not stock anymore.

My 1987 TII
Cone air filter, Walbro, Boost & Temp gauge, Heat wrapped HKS 3"dp, single 2.5" RSR catback, FCD by YearsOfDecay, 680cc secondaries, Removed airpump & PS, rotor dual pulley, Greddy turbo timer, MBC, Tyfoon stage II BOV, s5 tails, 3" TID, ebay strutbar, crazy 88s headlights, Apexi S-afc NEW ON 5-6-04 Stage 2 turbo.... To4b with super ported WG

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

ok but doesn't mention cat.

I'll take it you don't have one then (some pply still run cat with mods - like me ).

so what exactly do you want to know?

you don't care about back firing or emissions.

Jaared

the hks DP goes from the turbo to the cat back. Its all one pipe.

i want to take the acv off.

Im asking about effects on idle and start up... and if i can just cap off the vac hoses that are there.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i would do a complete removal and redo the rats nest while i'm in there

you can buy a block off plate for just the ACV. I would see no reason just to cap stuff off if your not going to physically remove it.

NZConvertible

The ACV has no effect of the engine's starting and running. Apart from a bit of popping from the exhaust on decel (the ACV incorporates an anti-afterburn valve), you won't even notice it's missing.

You need to buy or fabricate a block-off plate, cap three metal vac lines and tee the pressure sensor line into the BOV line.