everyone tells me to start the car in gear to avoid the 3,000 RPM cold start, however that does not work for me.

only the US cars do this jump to 3,000 RPMs and it has to be bad on the engine when it is so cold.

someone give me a way to get around it!!!!

 

yes, info on this would be good.
i live here in arizona and is basically never cold so i dont
think that i really need it, but maybe im wrong.
so anyone with some good info on this would be much appreciated(sp?).

 

So it's good for us Canadians up here right?

One thing though....when mine does it goes up and down between 3000 and 3200 like 4 times until it dies to 2 or less? Nothing that bothers me, but is that how it's supposed to go?

 

The throttle body mod removes the 3000 RPM startup.

You can try unplugging the temperature switch on the bottom of the rad, which seems to work for some people. Bare in mind that unplugging this switch may cause ECU error codes, and your car to run rich when warmed up.

 

I was wondering if theres a way to lower the rpms during the cold start. Instead of it going up to 3k, we can make it go to like 2k.

 

There is no way to control the startup speed, short of reprogramming the ECU.

Though, I guess in theory you could adjust the fast idle cam and bring it down a little.

 

You do not want the AWS to work. Myself and some friends call it the Accelerated Wear System (really Accelerated Warm-up System). It is just to warm your cats up, so you can get better cold-start emissions. It is not good for the engine, but either starting the engine while it is in 1st gear, or blipping the throttle as the revs climb to 3K will stop the AWS.

 

The approx 3000 rpm for 17seconds on startup is a function of the BAC in conjunction with the Airbypass Solenoid with a mix of the water thermo switch in the radiator if you talk about a 86-88. To prove it to yourself, pull the plug off the bac and the Airbypass Solenoid, and start the car on a cold morning. Result is no 3000 rpms for 17 seconds. Not a fast idle cam/ thermowax function. Take the Airbypass solenoid connector off by itself and you still get almost 3000rpm upon startup for 17seconds. More like 2500rom. Put it in gear and it will be disabled. If putting it in gear does not stop it , you have a problem with your over the top switch. Fix it. If you pull the plug off the water thermo switch on the radiator(86-88) you will disable the 3000rpm on start up but will also for all practical purposes disable the relief and switching functions of the air control valve. Putting the car in gear until 17seconds go by is the least distructive thing to do.

 

I just give mine a light, quick rev and it drops from 3000 to about 2400 and then slowly gets lower as the engine gets warmer...

I dont think it hurts too much b/c MAZDA engineers MUST HAVE anticipated that people in the upper 1/2 of the US and JAPAN would also be buying the cars... There's a reason they have the cold start as it is. Anyone a Thermodynamic engineer out there who can help us out? Didn't think so...

 

i dont know what everyone is talking about....starting it in first gear does not stop it

 

Did you try starting the car then putting it into gear right away? it wokrs for mine. never tried starting in gear

 

I start mine in gear. or you can stick it in gear after if you forget and it'll drop. the only reason for the 3000 start up is emissions. it can't be good for the engine...

 

Is it strictly for emissions cuz I think the higher oil pressure can get into the engine parts quicker than at lower revs / lower oil pressure which might not have enough energy to force the thick cold oil into those tight places.

 

Just tap the throttle! I do this every morning. If you just tap the throttle, it will drop to about 2500, then, after it's warmed up, she will go to her usual idle speed.

 

yeah just slightly tap the gas a once or twice and it sould drop down in rev"s

 

I guess my car is different. On start up, it revs to 3K for 1 maybe 2 seconds then drops to 1500 and slowly goes to 750 as the car warms up. I don't mess with putting it in gear or blipping the throttle since the start up is fine with me.

My clutch switch is wired direct, could that have anything to do with it?

 

I'd jumper the clutch switch, but I still want the cruise control to work.

 

My clutch switch is jumpered and my cruise still works.

 

Throttle tappers have won me over.Tap and it goes south.