is this aux port OPEN or CLOSED
07-01-05, 03:36 AM
#1
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is this aux port OPEN or CLOSED
thats all I need to know. are my ports stuck open or stuck closed. I know theyre stuck (wont move by hand) but are they open or closed?
and just as a refresher... closed = low end torque and less high end, and open = less low end torque, but higher top speed? right?
pic of one
and of the other
and just as a refresher... closed = low end torque and less high end, and open = less low end torque, but higher top speed? right?
pic of one
and of the other
07-01-05, 06:10 AM
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This is an S4 right? Then aren't they stuck CLOSED? I thought the actuators in S4's actually pulled on the levers to open the ports. Only S5's push (upwards) to open them. Seeing how they are already touching the the upper stopper pin; they can only move downwards and that would be acomplished by pulling by the actuator. If this is actually an S5 disregard all I've said 
Last edited by cprx7; 07-01-05 at 06:14 AM.
07-01-05, 10:12 AM
#3
IF YOU DON'T KNOW THEN DON'T TALK!
Those ports are in the CLOSED position.
The actuators are clearly series 4, which operates the reverse of series 5. The series 4 actuators "pull in" when they receive pressure, and those actuators are quite clearly extended.
The first thing you'll want to do is try and move them. I assume they don't, since you're saying that they're stuck.
Next, remove the actuators and all associated gasket material. They're a pain to remove, since they get heat soaked on a regular basis by the exhaust manifold. If the actuators are stuck, you can try spraying some WD-40 or PB Blaster in to free them up, or hitting them gently with a hammer, but... if they're really badly stuck, you have to replace them. I think I might have a working set laying around, PM me if you want them.
Now, try to rotate the ports by hand. Hopefully you'll be able to free them up, but if not, you're looking at removing the lower intake manifold to get them out and freed up.
-=Russ=-
Those ports are in the CLOSED position.
The actuators are clearly series 4, which operates the reverse of series 5. The series 4 actuators "pull in" when they receive pressure, and those actuators are quite clearly extended.
The first thing you'll want to do is try and move them. I assume they don't, since you're saying that they're stuck.
Next, remove the actuators and all associated gasket material. They're a pain to remove, since they get heat soaked on a regular basis by the exhaust manifold. If the actuators are stuck, you can try spraying some WD-40 or PB Blaster in to free them up, or hitting them gently with a hammer, but... if they're really badly stuck, you have to replace them. I think I might have a working set laying around, PM me if you want them.
Now, try to rotate the ports by hand. Hopefully you'll be able to free them up, but if not, you're looking at removing the lower intake manifold to get them out and freed up.
-=Russ=-
07-01-05, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by gxl90rx7
They are stuck in the open position. If you look at the way they are connected, there is no way the rod could pull in any further.
Actually it's not pulling down at all. The lever that turns the sleeve is touching the top metal pin that works as a stopper. That would be the closed position.
07-01-05, 10:58 AM
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Closed! Come on. Just read about the ports for thirty seconds and how to test them, on an S4 at least, and you'd know. If they aren't pulling in, fix them. First try to actuate the actuators by hand, just push down on the actuator rod, I found a simple "J" motion on the little cam to work really well, actually.
I just did some work on my actuators the other day, and have the smog pump running one, I still need to get some real gasket paper, cereal box just isn't cutting it. I used a 2 way gang valve for an aquarium. Go to RotaryResurrection.com for more details.
Here is some video:
Actuator
It's kind of hard to see, and my camera was flipped around, this is the back actuator.
I just did some work on my actuators the other day, and have the smog pump running one, I still need to get some real gasket paper, cereal box just isn't cutting it. I used a 2 way gang valve for an aquarium. Go to RotaryResurrection.com for more details.
Here is some video:
Actuator
It's kind of hard to see, and my camera was flipped around, this is the back actuator.
Last edited by JSmith0101; 07-01-05 at 11:14 AM.
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07-01-05, 11:23 AM
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Yeah, I figured I'd give the cardboard a try, can't hurt, don't work.
When you applied it, how did you do it? Around the intake holes, both faces, smeared, what? I'm not sure how to do it.
When you applied it, how did you do it? Around the intake holes, both faces, smeared, what? I'm not sure how to do it.
07-01-05, 11:42 AM
#9
The first step is to clean ALL the gasket material off, from both sides. Pain in the rear, btw.
If you look at the manifold, one of the sides has a hole for pressure, the other is solid. Figure out which side of the actuator goes over the solid side, and cover it liberally with RTV to keep it from leaking. On the side that goes to the hole, you need to be a bit more careful, and just get it around the edges. Then put the actuators on, and tighten them, but NOT VERY TIGHT or the RTV will squeeze out and not seal. Finger tight is probably good. After the RTV dries, you can tighten it down a bit more.
-=Russ=-
If you look at the manifold, one of the sides has a hole for pressure, the other is solid. Figure out which side of the actuator goes over the solid side, and cover it liberally with RTV to keep it from leaking. On the side that goes to the hole, you need to be a bit more careful, and just get it around the edges. Then put the actuators on, and tighten them, but NOT VERY TIGHT or the RTV will squeeze out and not seal. Finger tight is probably good. After the RTV dries, you can tighten it down a bit more.
-=Russ=-
07-01-05, 05:40 PM
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damnit. I was hoping they were stuck open. guess ill have to try and free them up... thanks for the help guys.
they should be able to just slide up and down by hand right?
they should be able to just slide up and down by hand right?
07-01-05, 07:26 PM
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If you can't push them down with finger pressure..........remove the two nuts. Then remove the circlip that holds the actuator rod to the input shaft. Now remove the actuator from the engine.
If you can't make the piston retreat with finger pressure........grab the actuator with your hand and firmly rap the rod/shaft against a piece of wood til the shaft will move in and out of the actuator with finger pressure. Spray with some of your favorite lubricant (where the shaft enters the actuator).
Reinstall the acutator. Use a new gasket or with a thin film of RTV.
You should be able to get a piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the actuator's input nipple and blow into the vac hose hard. The actuators should move all the way in as long as you keep applying pressure. It takes less than five psi to operate an actuator.
If you can't make the piston retreat with finger pressure........grab the actuator with your hand and firmly rap the rod/shaft against a piece of wood til the shaft will move in and out of the actuator with finger pressure. Spray with some of your favorite lubricant (where the shaft enters the actuator).
Reinstall the acutator. Use a new gasket or with a thin film of RTV.
You should be able to get a piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the actuator's input nipple and blow into the vac hose hard. The actuators should move all the way in as long as you keep applying pressure. It takes less than five psi to operate an actuator.
07-02-05, 05:44 AM
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it wont really make much of a diff I dont think. with them open youll lose low end toqrue though, so I guess that would affact it a bit, but im not sure in what way :P
07-02-05, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
WTF!? they are backwards on a s4?
on s5 NA's, the actuators PUSH the ports open, they dont pull.
crazy.
on s5 NA's, the actuators PUSH the ports open, they dont pull.
crazy.
07-02-05, 08:39 AM
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Hm... If those are stuck CLOSED, then the oppsite (open) would be with the plunger DOWN, and the tab with the rod would be against the OTHER stop-tab.
I've got the top half of my engine off, right now, and just happened to see this post.
Guess what? Same problem. Stuck shut, in the same position. No finger pressure, here..... Guess I should take 'em off and fix 'em? More then likely, people who've changed exhaust (or cat), will have this problem. The smog-pump (air-pump) isn't feeding any backpressure to the actuators, thus keeping them closed.
If this is the case - as with mine - what's the point of worrying about it? I mean, with out the air-pump doing it's job, they're useless, right?
Only thing I'd noticed, was that first gear is REAL short. I think I'm getting up to 20-or-so MPH at about 4k RPMs. Of course, I think that the air-pump IS pumping (well, it's still running w/ the engine), but I think it's not doing much.
Any cat-less remedy for the port-actuators?
I've got the top half of my engine off, right now, and just happened to see this post.
Guess what? Same problem. Stuck shut, in the same position. No finger pressure, here..... Guess I should take 'em off and fix 'em? More then likely, people who've changed exhaust (or cat), will have this problem. The smog-pump (air-pump) isn't feeding any backpressure to the actuators, thus keeping them closed.
If this is the case - as with mine - what's the point of worrying about it? I mean, with out the air-pump doing it's job, they're useless, right?
Only thing I'd noticed, was that first gear is REAL short. I think I'm getting up to 20-or-so MPH at about 4k RPMs. Of course, I think that the air-pump IS pumping (well, it's still running w/ the engine), but I think it's not doing much.
Any cat-less remedy for the port-actuators?
07-02-05, 08:50 AM
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Okay.. Just took the rear actuator off. Dropped some WD-40 in that sucker, and it wortks, fine....
Just out of curiosity, what's the screw on the opposite end of that for? Is this to set the depth of the plunger? It looks like a set screw for how open the port goes.
Any ideas?
[EDIT: You guys won't believe this. The FRONT actuator is rusted OPEN WTF!?!?
Is this a problem if the rear's shut, and the front's open?]
Just out of curiosity, what's the screw on the opposite end of that for? Is this to set the depth of the plunger? It looks like a set screw for how open the port goes.
Any ideas?
[EDIT: You guys won't believe this. The FRONT actuator is rusted OPEN WTF!?!?
Is this a problem if the rear's shut, and the front's open?]
Last edited by TrboSpdAnt; 07-02-05 at 09:02 AM.
07-02-05, 09:44 AM
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I just cleaned up this thread. For the record, S4's open their ports by pulling DOWN on the actuator. S5s push UP.
Please DO NOT POST IF YOU DON'T KNOW. All this is common information.
Please DO NOT POST IF YOU DON'T KNOW. All this is common information.
07-02-05, 10:33 AM
#23
According to the pictures you posted, the front actuator is in the closed position as well. What do you mean, it's "rusted open"?
I haven't played with the screw on the end of the actuator, but my guess is that it would set the spring tension, and therefore how much pressure it takes to open the actuators (and, with exhaust backpressure driving them, roughly where they open RPM-wise).
-=Russ=-
I haven't played with the screw on the end of the actuator, but my guess is that it would set the spring tension, and therefore how much pressure it takes to open the actuators (and, with exhaust backpressure driving them, roughly where they open RPM-wise).
-=Russ=-
07-02-05, 11:04 AM
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I didn't post those pictures. His are both closed.
By, "rusted open," I mean that the actuator ITSELF is rusted open. The valve is rusted closed. The Pin wasn't connected to the valve shaft. There's a seat that the actuator's plunger-shaft slides in. Mine is (was) stuck DOWN (Open), to the seat. Now it opens and closes (goes up and down) easily, but it has the seat attached tot he plunger-shaft.
The valve's shaft doesn't move for ****. The rear one's pretty easy to access, witht hte manifold off... The front one's a major hemmoroid. I've tried WD-40 and PB Blaster...
Both to no avail. That sucker's not movin'.
I figued as much about the screw. Kinda makes sense.
So if the REAR one opens and closes, and the FRONT one DOESN'T.... What then?
By, "rusted open," I mean that the actuator ITSELF is rusted open. The valve is rusted closed. The Pin wasn't connected to the valve shaft. There's a seat that the actuator's plunger-shaft slides in. Mine is (was) stuck DOWN (Open), to the seat. Now it opens and closes (goes up and down) easily, but it has the seat attached tot he plunger-shaft.
The valve's shaft doesn't move for ****. The rear one's pretty easy to access, witht hte manifold off... The front one's a major hemmoroid. I've tried WD-40 and PB Blaster...
Both to no avail. That sucker's not movin'.
I figued as much about the screw. Kinda makes sense.
So if the REAR one opens and closes, and the FRONT one DOESN'T.... What then?