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Aux port conversion to use the air pump

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Old 02-13-18, 05:02 PM
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Aux port conversion to use the air pump

Hey guys I've been doing some searching and found a thread about this conversion. I have an 88 rx7 SE. I'm trying to eliminate the exhaust back pressure actuation and have the aux ports open with the air pump instead.

I've found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...itches-907824/
however the part is no longer available.
What are some options for this conversion to help use the actuation of the aux ports on my S4.




P.S. I've found this but I'm not sure if this will help for what I need it for .https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...8950/overview/
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Old 02-14-18, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by FCl0v3r View Post
Hey guys I've been doing some searching and found a thread about this conversion. I have an 88 rx7 SE. I'm trying to eliminate the exhaust back pressure actuation and have the aux ports open with the air pump instead.

I've found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...itches-907824/
however the part is no longer available.
What are some options for this conversion to help use the actuation of the aux ports on my S4.




P.S. I've found this but I'm not sure if this will help for what I need it for .https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...8950/overview/
Why not get the racing beat header with aux port activation tube. Thats what I would do rather than trying to make it work off the air pump. Also are you sure you ports are working?
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Old 02-14-18, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by littlebit421 View Post
Why not get the racing beat header with aux port activation tube. Thats what I would do rather than trying to make it work off the air pump. Also are you sure you ports are working?

Because I've aquired an old Mindtrain exhaust from someone and I would like to make it work. Also I would like to simplify the exhaust as much as possible. I'm sure my aux ports are working considering that when I get up to around 4000 rpm I get even more power. Also I'll be using this car for racing, track days and occasional weekend drives.

Thank you for the response I appreciate any input. I should've gone into more detail about what the car is going to be mostly used for.
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Old 02-14-18, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FCl0v3r View Post
Because I've aquired an old Mindtrain exhaust from someone and I would like to make it work. Also I would like to simplify the exhaust as much as possible. I'm sure my aux ports are working considering that when I get up to around 4000 rpm I get even more power. Also I'll be using this car for racing, track days and occasional weekend drives.

Thank you for the response I appreciate any input. I should've gone into more detail about what the car is going to be mostly used for.
This is what I did and only speaking from experience, also the only reason I am suggesting this is because you say its that you are using it for racing and an occasional weekend driver, I would just wire them open. I had one stuck on my car and I decided to remove the sleeves completely, I have a header and full exhaust (it was like that when I bought it and it actually looked like the guy had it set up to run off the air pump, but with one of the sleeves stuck and I broke one of the rods trying to free it up, I had to remove the lower intake anyway so I just decided for them to be gone since I also removed my air pump, egr valve and BAC also) People will say dont do it your low end will be crap, fuel mileage sucks. I have personally not noticed enough of a difference for me to go through the trouble to put them back in and make them work properly. Yes your fuel mileage may drop a little and some say it messes with the idle. I will post a video of my car running to give you an idea if you want? jsut let me know
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Old 02-14-18, 05:03 PM
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I've done this on my car. Tap the outlet of the airpump, and connect it to the aux port with a 1/8" vacuum line. You can tee off the line with an adjustable valve to relieve the pressure until it builds up enough at 3800RPM. Refer also to the dump hose that relieves air pressure under the airbox. I squeezed a 3/8 socket into the hose to restrict it. A small bored plug would also work.

This is how I got by until I was able to sort put the RPM switch, but it lays the basic foundation down for what you're trying to accomplish.
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Old 02-15-18, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Akaviri View Post
I've done this on my car. Tap the outlet of the airpump, and connect it to the aux port with a 1/8" vacuum line. You can tee off the line with an adjustable valve to relieve the pressure until it builds up enough at 3800RPM. Refer also to the dump hose that relieves air pressure under the airbox. I squeezed a 3/8 socket into the hose to restrict it. A small bored plug would also work.

This is how I got by until I was able to sort put the RPM switch, but it lays the basic foundation down for what you're trying to accomplish.
How are you going to confirm that they are opening at the right time without a camera under the hood and taking it for a drive or on a dyno with the hood up and someone watching as you accelerate under load? Before going through all the trouble of piping in for air pressure and making sure they are working correctly I would say twist them open and leave it, drive for a couple weeks and if your not happy then try getting them working properly. This is just my opinion and suggestion.
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Old 02-15-18, 09:32 AM
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-ports-837764/

here is a good link with some good info on getting them working though

ALSO AS TO MY PREVIOUS POST, I REMOVED THE ACV NOT THE BAC, OOOPPPS BRAIN FART.

Last edited by littlebit421; 02-15-18 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 02-15-18, 09:41 AM
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one more this is a really good one
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
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Old 02-15-18, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by littlebit421 View Post
This is what I did and only speaking from experience, also the only reason I am suggesting this is because you say its that you are using it for racing and an occasional weekend driver, I would just wire them open. I had one stuck on my car and I decided to remove the sleeves completely, I have a header and full exhaust (it was like that when I bought it and it actually looked like the guy had it set up to run off the air pump, but with one of the sleeves stuck and I broke one of the rods trying to free it up, I had to remove the lower intake anyway so I just decided for them to be gone since I also removed my air pump, egr valve and BAC also) People will say dont do it your low end will be crap, fuel mileage sucks. I have personally not noticed enough of a difference for me to go through the trouble to put them back in and make them work properly. Yes your fuel mileage may drop a little and some say it messes with the idle. I will post a video of my car running to give you an idea if you want? jsut let me know
I've thought about just deleting it myself but I'm just going through ideas that are simple enough to make things easier and less of an annoyance. However I would like to see a video of your car idling. That would be awesome.
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Old 02-15-18, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Akaviri View Post
I've done this on my car. Tap the outlet of the airpump, and connect it to the aux port with a 1/8" vacuum line. You can tee off the line with an adjustable valve to relieve the pressure until it builds up enough at 3800RPM. Refer also to the dump hose that relieves air pressure under the airbox. I squeezed a 3/8 socket into the hose to restrict it. A small bored plug would also work.

This is how I got by until I was able to sort put the RPM switch, but it lays the basic foundation down for what you're trying to accomplish.
Thanks I was thinking about the switch though, I'm not sure of what to get. The link I posted above had the part number from summit racing however the thread is several years old. Does any switch work? and do I need 2?
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Old 02-15-18, 04:11 PM
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1 RPM switch is all you need. I purchased a refurbished Intellitronix for $35 on Ebay and it works great. Theres a bullet connector on the ignition coil for a tach signal. Connect the switch ground wire to an emissions solenoid (I took the EGR solenoid) and program the switch with its instructions to activate the solenoid at 3800RPM.

as for the actuators working or not, you can wire them and see before attempting anything. I would certainly not drive the car in that state for long as it will be super rich at low RPM.
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Old 02-15-18, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Akaviri View Post
1 RPM switch is all you need. I purchased a refurbished Intellitronix for $35 on Ebay and it works great. Theres a bullet connector on the ignition coil for a tach signal. Connect the switch ground wire to an emissions solenoid (I took the EGR solenoid) and program the switch with its instructions to activate the solenoid at 3800RPM.

as for the actuators working or not, you can wire them and see before attempting anything. I would certainly not drive the car in that state for long as it will be super rich at low RPM.


Thank you for your help it's really good and insightful. Do you have a pic of your set up? If you still have it by chance?

Also is this the switch you were referring to?: https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...llitronix-corp
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Old 02-15-18, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Akaviri View Post
1 RPM switch is all you need. I purchased a refurbished Intellitronix for $35 on Ebay and it works great. Theres a bullet connector on the ignition coil for a tach signal. Connect the switch ground wire to an emissions solenoid (I took the EGR solenoid) and program the switch with its instructions to activate the solenoid at 3800RPM.

as for the actuators working or not, you can wire them and see before attempting anything. I would certainly not drive the car in that state for long as it will be super rich at low RPM.
i will +1 the running rich (agree about it being super rich at idle)

and here are the videos ignore the belt sound in the engine bay.

https://youtu.be/AfuGTT_HHxk

https://youtu.be/BRkmZccN04A

you may have to copy and paste the link.
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Old 02-16-18, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by FCl0v3r View Post
Thank you for your help it's really good and insightful. Do you have a pic of your set up? If you still have it by chance?

Also is this the switch you were referring to?: https://www.summitracing.com/nv/part...llitronix-corp

Yeah that looks like the one I have. I mounted it with zip ties near the air box. I still have the same setup, it works flawlessly. I can rev the engine from the throttle body and clearly see the actuators push in around 4000 RPM.
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Old 02-16-18, 12:13 PM
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Littlebit421 and Akaviri, thank you for your responses along with all of your help. This has been a great learning experience and I'll see about which route I want to go. Being in Cali makes things difficult and pain to do the wired open set up. I'll see what I can do, again thanks guys for your help and insight along with putting up with my stupid questions.
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Old 02-16-18, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FCl0v3r View Post
Littlebit421 and Akaviri, thank you for your responses along with all of your help. This has been a great learning experience and I'll see about which route I want to go. Being in Cali makes things difficult and pain to do the wired open set up. I'll see what I can do, again thanks guys for your help and insight along with putting up with my stupid questions.
Good Luck with it and there are no stupid questions, the only way we learn is to ask. That is why there is a great forum here and great people, trust me I have asked many questions myself and still do. I just try to return the favor when I can. As for being in Cali your struggle is real, I am in SC and no emitions here, so its easy to modify.
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