Autometer water temp gauge weirdness
#1
Defected to the dark side
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: toronto
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Autometer water temp gauge weirdness
Hey all,
I just finished reading some old threads about where to tap aftermarket water temp. sender units and watever. Anyway, now i know why the sender unit autometer sent with the gauge doesn't fit ....so i used the stock one. Basically i just wired up my autometer temp. gauge to the stock sender unit.
Here's where the weirdness comes in. I turned the car on to test it out and everything seemed ok...that is until the gotdamn temp. gauge went all the way to 250 degrees F!!!! This was within like 3 minutes of me turning the car on...and i was watching the little orange needle go up the whole time. The engine was still cold..doing its little idle surge thing. The coolant filler cap, the rad, the upper rad hose..none of it was hot. Geez..the coolant wasn't even hot enough to leak out of the leak i have at the coolant filler cap assembly.
So wat the hell am i dealing with here? Is the stock sender unit and the autometer gauge incompatible?
Am i totally screwed and my engine is running at 250 F for some wacky reason?
Or should I keep the old wiring connected to the stock temp. sender unit (in some kind of three way with the wiring for the autometer gauge). I read somewhere that this sender unit hooks up to the ECU...but some people on this forum say otherwise.
So wat do you guys think?
Any help is appreciated!
I just finished reading some old threads about where to tap aftermarket water temp. sender units and watever. Anyway, now i know why the sender unit autometer sent with the gauge doesn't fit ....so i used the stock one. Basically i just wired up my autometer temp. gauge to the stock sender unit.
Here's where the weirdness comes in. I turned the car on to test it out and everything seemed ok...that is until the gotdamn temp. gauge went all the way to 250 degrees F!!!! This was within like 3 minutes of me turning the car on...and i was watching the little orange needle go up the whole time. The engine was still cold..doing its little idle surge thing. The coolant filler cap, the rad, the upper rad hose..none of it was hot. Geez..the coolant wasn't even hot enough to leak out of the leak i have at the coolant filler cap assembly.
So wat the hell am i dealing with here? Is the stock sender unit and the autometer gauge incompatible?
Am i totally screwed and my engine is running at 250 F for some wacky reason?
Or should I keep the old wiring connected to the stock temp. sender unit (in some kind of three way with the wiring for the autometer gauge). I read somewhere that this sender unit hooks up to the ECU...but some people on this forum say otherwise.
So wat do you guys think?
Any help is appreciated!
#3
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by Wankels-Revenge
Is the stock sender unit and the autometer gauge incompatible?
Is the stock sender unit and the autometer gauge incompatible?
I read somewhere that this sender unit hooks up to the ECU...
Sorry to bust your *****, but you've obviously done little or no research and haven't followed the instructions (I'm pretty sure AutoMeter don't suggest using the stock sender). That's a good way to make costly mistakes when modifying cars.
If you do some resarch using the search fuction you'll see that the best place to put the sender is on the back of the water pump next to the ECU thermosensor. You need to remove the pump to drill and tap a new hole.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-29-04 at 10:42 PM.
#4
Defected to the dark side
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: toronto
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No i used the temp sensor under the oil filter...and i also had a feeling that they wouldn't be incompatible but felt that I should ask that question anyway to get a clear response. Yours couldn't have been any more clear.
I'd rather keep the sensor at the stock location mainly because I have no experience tapping holes into anything..and because the stock location is on the block. I know there is very little temp. variation between the block and the water pump but i'd rather get a block temp. reading.
Thanks for the response.
Oh and btw, Autometer's wonderfully detailed instructions go as far as to say "install water temp. sensor". Not a hell of a lot to go on. It doesn't take a genius to figure out a OE mazda sensor and an autometer gauge won't work together. I didn't want to rule out that possibility.
I'd rather keep the sensor at the stock location mainly because I have no experience tapping holes into anything..and because the stock location is on the block. I know there is very little temp. variation between the block and the water pump but i'd rather get a block temp. reading.
Thanks for the response.
Oh and btw, Autometer's wonderfully detailed instructions go as far as to say "install water temp. sensor". Not a hell of a lot to go on. It doesn't take a genius to figure out a OE mazda sensor and an autometer gauge won't work together. I didn't want to rule out that possibility.
Last edited by Wankels-Revenge; 05-30-04 at 10:08 AM.
#6
Defected to the dark side
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: toronto
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Gene
Or if you're like me, I have an S5 engine with an S4 thermostat neck installed, and the neck as a tap on it for a 1/2" npt bung. Dunno if that is the stock size of that hole (seems it should be metric on a metric car) maybe it was redrilled and tapped.
Or if you're like me, I have an S5 engine with an S4 thermostat neck installed, and the neck as a tap on it for a 1/2" npt bung. Dunno if that is the stock size of that hole (seems it should be metric on a metric car) maybe it was redrilled and tapped.
#7
Has been.. hangin' around
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
www.iscracing.net
You can splice the sender in line with the water hose. Just remember to ground the sensor to the block.
LOL NZ, you tell em
PaulC
You can splice the sender in line with the water hose. Just remember to ground the sensor to the block.
LOL NZ, you tell em
PaulC
Trending Topics
#8
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by Wankels-Revenge
Actually I have an s4 engine so i do have that spot on the thermostat neck. I've actually seen pictures of people who have tapped that location. Thats a good second option i'd say
Actually I have an s4 engine so i do have that spot on the thermostat neck. I've actually seen pictures of people who have tapped that location. Thats a good second option i'd say
#9
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
That's why you keep your stock guage
S4's are good for something unlike S5's.
It may be after the thermosta but hell. It's a whole lot easier than removing the waterpump tp tap it.
I plan to put my guage there.
Maybe even on the stationary cap itself for easy of removal/install.
It won't show correct temps any time before the Tstat is open but it'll work fine once it opens.
Ideally you want it before the Tstat but it depends on how far you want to go.
S4's are good for something unlike S5's.
It may be after the thermosta but hell. It's a whole lot easier than removing the waterpump tp tap it.
I plan to put my guage there.
Maybe even on the stationary cap itself for easy of removal/install.
It won't show correct temps any time before the Tstat is open but it'll work fine once it opens.
Ideally you want it before the Tstat but it depends on how far you want to go.
#10
Defected to the dark side
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: toronto
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by NZConvertible
No, it's not. The sensor will not see coolant flow until the thermostat opens. This means you will not get a temp reading until the engine warms up, but more importantly, if the thermostat sticks shut you will have absolutely no indication of the rapdily climbing engine temps. Not until it boils and fries your engine that it...
No, it's not. The sensor will not see coolant flow until the thermostat opens. This means you will not get a temp reading until the engine warms up, but more importantly, if the thermostat sticks shut you will have absolutely no indication of the rapdily climbing engine temps. Not until it boils and fries your engine that it...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
[For Sale] Scratch & Dent, Used, and Open-Box Sale!
SakeBomb Garage
Vendor Classifieds
5
08-09-18 05:54 PM