Auto -> NA swap - Won't Crank
#1
Auto -> NA swap - Won't Crank
I bought a 90 Auto GTU shell with no motor or transmission. I also bought a wrecked 90 5spd GTU with a well running driveline. I pulled the motor/trans/em harness/ecu/afm/etc. from the wrecked car and put it directly into the auto shell. I used the battery/starter (engine) harness from the auto car as the manual one did not mate with my front harness.
I have read in a few write ups that you need to run a few wires for the clutch interlock switch and reverse lights to function. I do not care about the clutch interlock switch and will do the reverse lights later. I have not ran any extra wires. Everything is 100% stock.
When I go to try and start the car, there is nothing from the starter. The fuel pump primes and i get power in the cabin but it does not crank over. I am getting 12.5V from the battery and the same at the main fuse. I feel like it is just a missing wire somewhere. All grounds look good.
Any ideas? I didn't have time to mess with it tonight but I will have more time tomorrow. Just looking for any tips or insight.
Thanks
I have read in a few write ups that you need to run a few wires for the clutch interlock switch and reverse lights to function. I do not care about the clutch interlock switch and will do the reverse lights later. I have not ran any extra wires. Everything is 100% stock.
When I go to try and start the car, there is nothing from the starter. The fuel pump primes and i get power in the cabin but it does not crank over. I am getting 12.5V from the battery and the same at the main fuse. I feel like it is just a missing wire somewhere. All grounds look good.
Any ideas? I didn't have time to mess with it tonight but I will have more time tomorrow. Just looking for any tips or insight.
Thanks
#6
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From looking at the S5 wiring diagram I garnered the following info. B/G runs from the Starter Cut relay to the Inhibitor switch. B/R runs from the Inhibitor switch to the starter. If you have a B/R wire connected to the starter solenoid then do a continuity test involving the solenoid pin wire which is B/R and the B/R wire in the Inhibitor switch plug. If it rings out then you're okay there. The B/R wire also should go to the Circuit Opening relay and the fan.
If you used the Front harness from the Auto then the B/R wire also needs to be mated w/connector X-08 which is Black and located near the area of the trailing coil. Normally one side runs to the fan and Circuit Opening relay while the other side goes to the same wire at the starter solenoid. If the wire that is at the solenoid also splits off and runs to this Black connector then the single jumper wire is all that should be needed. If not, then the B/R wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the B/R wire found at the inhibitor switch also needs to run to this connector so it can mate up and supply the proper voltage signal to the Circuit Opening relay and fan.
If you used the Front harness from the Auto then the B/R wire also needs to be mated w/connector X-08 which is Black and located near the area of the trailing coil. Normally one side runs to the fan and Circuit Opening relay while the other side goes to the same wire at the starter solenoid. If the wire that is at the solenoid also splits off and runs to this Black connector then the single jumper wire is all that should be needed. If not, then the B/R wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the B/R wire found at the inhibitor switch also needs to run to this connector so it can mate up and supply the proper voltage signal to the Circuit Opening relay and fan.
#7
From looking at the S5 wiring diagram I garnered the following info. B/G runs from the Starter Cut relay to the Inhibitor switch. B/R runs from the Inhibitor switch to the starter. If you have a B/R wire connected to the starter solenoid then do a continuity test involving the solenoid pin wire which is B/R and the B/R wire in the Inhibitor switch plug. If it rings out then you're okay there. The B/R wire also should go to the Circuit Opening relay and the fan.
If you used the Front harness from the Auto then the B/R wire also needs to be mated w/connector X-08 which is Black and located near the area of the trailing coil. Normally one side runs to the fan and Circuit Opening relay while the other side goes to the same wire at the starter solenoid. If the wire that is at the solenoid also splits off and runs to this Black connector then the single jumper wire is all that should be needed. If not, then the B/R wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the B/R wire found at the inhibitor switch also needs to run to this connector so it can mate up and supply the proper voltage signal to the Circuit Opening relay and fan.
If you used the Front harness from the Auto then the B/R wire also needs to be mated w/connector X-08 which is Black and located near the area of the trailing coil. Normally one side runs to the fan and Circuit Opening relay while the other side goes to the same wire at the starter solenoid. If the wire that is at the solenoid also splits off and runs to this Black connector then the single jumper wire is all that should be needed. If not, then the B/R wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the B/R wire found at the inhibitor switch also needs to run to this connector so it can mate up and supply the proper voltage signal to the Circuit Opening relay and fan.
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#8
i got it working...
two issues...i needed to jumper the two bottom wires on the inhibitor switch plug. also, the ground that goes onto the starter bolt was bolted to one of the engine->tranny bolts. once those two were fixed, it turned over. the battery is too weak to start it but i'm charging it now and will try tomorrow
two issues...i needed to jumper the two bottom wires on the inhibitor switch plug. also, the ground that goes onto the starter bolt was bolted to one of the engine->tranny bolts. once those two were fixed, it turned over. the battery is too weak to start it but i'm charging it now and will try tomorrow
#10
i dunno...it wasn't working there. i was getting voltage to the starter signal wire and nothing. i took the starter out and hooked it directly to the battery and it worked. put it back in, changed the ground and it turned over. i thought it would work either place but who knows.
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