str8tdubbed

How do you know when your Apex Seals are bad. What signs does the engine give of having bad Apex Seals. I"m almost positive i need new coolant O Rings and all that crap b/c when the car runs for a little bit (10-15 minutes) it will start to burn coolant near where the turbo is. I've been told this is coming from the coolant line that runs into the turbo.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Your a bit confised.

Generally when we speak of coolant seals, We are talking about the internal ones.
The gasket for the turbo is not related to the engines compression/health.
That's usually an easy fix unless it's the O-ring between the LIM and engine block

AN internal coolatn seal leak/failure will result in hard starting because the chamber is filling with coolant. White smoke coming out of your exhaust for a few seconds on start up OR constantly depending on how bad it is.
It can also pressurize your coolant system making your coolant purge out through the overflow bottle.

Apex seals are the seals at the end/edge of the rotor face and are the most common seal to go out on turbo applications.
If a seals goes out then you will get Zero or low compression between 2 rotor faces(Apex seal seperates 2 rotor faces).
Idle will be shitty and vacuum low.
If you get compression numbers south of 65-70psi then your seals are going out.

str8tdubbed

Well the car idles fine and i am not aware of any vacuum leaks. I just bought the car a couple weeks ago It's an upgrade from my 88 fc N/A.

I wasn't trying to relate the coolant leak with the Apex seals i was just wondering if i should replace them while i am replacing the coolant seals/o-rings. The car has almost 88,000 miles on it so i wouldn't think that the thing would need a full rebuild.

However i see alot of oil blow off around the whole bottom of the motor, completely covering the turbo and all components south of the manifold. I am going to try and replace the oil pan gasket and see if this remedies it. I am one day away from pulling the engine completely out and tranny and having bottom of engine powercoated and top half chromed

str8tdubbed

I've also got alot of stock FC TII parts if anyone is in need of anything let me know.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well to replace coolant seals you will be opening the block up.

It is cheaper in the long run to rebuild everything at the same time.
At 88K your TII motor is getting near it's end. (90-120k on average).

str8tdubbed

Yah probably a good idea

anyone know the rough cost of everything i need to rebuild

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

$1500+ for a rebuild.

tjeter

i got quoted $891, for every parted from mazda (gaskets, springs, blah blah blah), including apex seals and everything, you should be in luck and the housings will be reusable, if not then your looking at another $500, still then your at around $1400, well this is if your planning on doing all the labor yourself.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Kevin Landers www.rotayresurrection.com

Does the cheapest rebuild that I know of. His engines do damn well too. Mines 45k+ daily driven TII.

str8tdubbed

What was your total cost Digi? And did you have to ship it out to him or are you close. I live in Western NY near Erie, PA

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I can't remember the exact price. Engine health varies.

I had to trade one good S5 rotor for 2 S4's and then pay for new front intake irons because the engine core I bought was junk.

I think after shipping I was around $1800 not including buying the engine block to send out.That's with replacement parts as well.

Also send it short block. Cheaper for shipping.
I think the shipping carrier was R&L and they weren't terribly bad.

Kevins motors are great for stock turbo applications.