Okay well my 7 idles at the right rpm im pretty sure, its about 7xx ish, s5 rx7

Theres a few situations my car will just stall, its a automatic though

1) Spirited driving and going to a quick stop (Like going around a corner havin fun and then boom theres a stop sign, slam on brakes and then it just dies :|)

2) Going around in a parking lot or so, just going slow sometimes it'll just boom be off

3) When the ac is on (like in situations above) it'll love to die on me, like at a intersection and just about to push the gas then pewf its dead

I forget what raises the idle for ps a/c, is there a way to adjust it or does it self-raise the rpms? I guess I could just bump the rpms up to 850 or so maybe that'd help

It's done this since my family has brought it home from mazda in 1991, when a/c or ps is used the rpms sometimes go up and down oddly, like its not raising them right

 

search cleaning the BAC first

 

Yeah, don't mess with the idle adjustments. Clean and test the BAC. Also the ASV, if still equipped.

 

See the FSM for that?

thx

 

yep. the BAC stuff is definitely in the FSM.

 

thx guys, will take a look later, dunno anything about the BAC

 

Well I know the bac does work, its just randomly the car just goes pewf, like when I reverse on a slightly up hill area, right before i shift into R it dies.

Its always totally random, ac on, taking a turn. Stop at a stop light

it doesnt chug to a stop or anything I have a loud exhaust, its just dead and fires right up always

 

Whats your idle at with the BAC disconnected and no load?

 

I cant tell from the fsm what the bac is exactly or which plug it is

Is the bac the little bosh thing near the pass side of the engine?

If you can tell me ill check right now what it does without the bac

 

It's the cylinder looking thing with a white plug usually, has two coolant lines running to it that just kind of look like they run through a pipe attatched to it. If I recall it's on the passenger side under the inlet duct.

 

 

^Ah yes, the label part on mine if I recall says bosch or whatever that company is.

I'll go out in a sec and see, unplug it while it's on?

 

Yeah, start it up, let it warm up, and disconnect it and see what happens. And while you're out there, afterwards if nothing happens with the BAC unplugged, start turning on various loads (headlights, a/c, whatever else) and see what it does.

 

Okay, well currently when I turn on anything the idle adjusts, I'll go do that, thx

 

probably says nippon-denso? anyway, the plug should unclip like one of the fuel injectors.

 

You mean the connector assplodes in your hand the second you touch it?

 

I guess I was thinking of my bros bmw, he had a similar looking thing in his engine.

Well when I unplugged it, magic happen (lol nothing). I turned the wheel, rpms dropped like normal but didnt fluctuate, turned on ac rpms went lower, lights on, moved wheel, rpms were just low like some of the times it stalls

So I'm thinking the bac might be going bad, my 5/6th stick too and I was told not to remove this crap without getting new gaskets atleast, so I guess when I get those and take everything apart I'll test the bac as per fsm.

Anyone know where I can get the gaskets needed when you remove everything to clean the gunk so the 5/6 work

 

Mazdatrix/etc will supply you gaskets. Most of the time you can free them up just moving them back & forth with a pair of pliers. If unplugging the BAC did nothing and the car behaves the same with the load/etc on, then likely it's stuck closed or not getting signal. Typically, it'll try to bypass air to get your idle better with load/etc (why a lot of people with emissions ripped out usually complain the car stalls/dips at stops/etc).

 

You might have solved one of my major issues. Great thread

 

I wish there was a way to unstick my water thermo. With the vast amount of idle control systems they put on this damn car, WHY...WHY have a mechanical cold idle system. The BAC could have easily controlled that.