Anyone have input on my s4 TII dyno run
#1
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Anyone have input on my s4 TII dyno run
Hi fellas. I finally took the car in for a HP run yesterday and was surprised to see my car put out decent power.
To see the graphs and detailed mods you can go to this link:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=11363
MAX HP: 215.7 MAX TORQUE: 186.8
- Stock Motor (140,000 miles), Stock TB, Stock injectors and pump, Stock Turbo and Wastegate, Stock ignition.
Mods that mattered: Cone intake w/TID mod, Down Pipe, Highflow Cat Converter, RP50 2.5" Catback.
Rock solid 8lbs of boost reading on autometer guage
I just can believe at how rich I was running at the top end with stock injectors. Even after leaning it out 8% I was still running pig rich. I think it really hurt my numbers. I also need to put in a manual boost controller. I wonder how much more power I could have gotten with 10 or 12 lbs of boost instead of 8.
** Moderators. I didnt see a Dyno section. If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it. **
To see the graphs and detailed mods you can go to this link:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=11363
MAX HP: 215.7 MAX TORQUE: 186.8
- Stock Motor (140,000 miles), Stock TB, Stock injectors and pump, Stock Turbo and Wastegate, Stock ignition.
Mods that mattered: Cone intake w/TID mod, Down Pipe, Highflow Cat Converter, RP50 2.5" Catback.
Rock solid 8lbs of boost reading on autometer guage
I just can believe at how rich I was running at the top end with stock injectors. Even after leaning it out 8% I was still running pig rich. I think it really hurt my numbers. I also need to put in a manual boost controller. I wonder how much more power I could have gotten with 10 or 12 lbs of boost instead of 8.
** Moderators. I didnt see a Dyno section. If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it. **
#6
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Originally posted by saltlakebay
11's?? It was my understanding that 14 was stoich.. or perfect a/f. 11 to 1 is pretty damn rich.
Or, am i missing something?
11's?? It was my understanding that 14 was stoich.. or perfect a/f. 11 to 1 is pretty damn rich.
Or, am i missing something?
That chart is diffucult to read, but it looks like you are getting a fuel dump or airflow restriction around 5K rpm that is causing a stumble.
#7
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I suggest that you have someone knowledgeable tune your engine while you watch and learn
I only did 2 runs. I didnt have a chance to tune.
Thanks also for the input on the a/f ratios. I totally understand that I dont want to go lean, but I figured at wide open throttle I would still want to be a little leaner than 11 or 12 to 1. Better safe that sorry I suppose
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#9
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Just out of curiosity, does my dyno seem decent to you folks for the mods?
Is there a particular place on the forum I can look to compare.
I only want a max of 275 rwhp because unitl the engine blows i'm not going stand alone.
My plans are for the s5 manifold and turbo in my closet to get a cold side upgrade. 650 cc ot 750 cc injectors in the secondaries, a front mount, msd 6a, and walbro with rewire. amond other things..
Is there a particular place on the forum I can look to compare.
I only want a max of 275 rwhp because unitl the engine blows i'm not going stand alone.
My plans are for the s5 manifold and turbo in my closet to get a cold side upgrade. 650 cc ot 750 cc injectors in the secondaries, a front mount, msd 6a, and walbro with rewire. amond other things..
#13
Haven't we ALL heard this
How did you get those AFR readings?
If the wideband was after your cat the readings are inacturate. Also, the sensor needs to be perpendicular to the exhaust flow.
Those numbers look really good
If the wideband was after your cat the readings are inacturate. Also, the sensor needs to be perpendicular to the exhaust flow.
Those numbers look really good
#14
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dyno run
i have just finished rebuilding my car and run in, running 8 psi off boost with a microtech and an cold air intake with a 3inch exhaust system and was able 2 get 180 RWHP but i had a leaking intake manifold ...
witha 10 psi u should get somewehere between 210-230 hp at the wheels
witha 10 psi u should get somewehere between 210-230 hp at the wheels
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RXHEVN: yeah that's what i thought.!
I have aftermarket management, Hi-Flow turbo & big pump, and other small mods. Let you guess what i'm getting.
225 rwhp @ .6 BAR!
I'm in australia so there's a little indifference in the dynos. Ah RX, i just noticed you're from sydney! There's an article on the net somewhere that explains the differences between the Dynojet and Dynodynamic Dynometers.
I have aftermarket management, Hi-Flow turbo & big pump, and other small mods. Let you guess what i'm getting.
225 rwhp @ .6 BAR!
I'm in australia so there's a little indifference in the dynos. Ah RX, i just noticed you're from sydney! There's an article on the net somewhere that explains the differences between the Dynojet and Dynodynamic Dynometers.
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How did you get those AFR readings?
for 8 thats pretty good
There's an article on the net somewhere that explains the differences between the Dynojet and Dynodynamic Dynometers.
For comparison, my friend came with an 86 n/a with a fresh streetported engine and pulled 120 rwhp. My other friend with boost problems in his street ported 90 TII got 199 rwhp. I think he was hitting 4 or 5 lbs on the top end. Both had intake and some exhaust mods.
Overall, I was just surprised it came out so high. I figured I would hit 200 tops. One thing though. The nose of the car was at the garage door which was open and it was only about 45 degrees F outside
Umm.. other than that, I may only shoot for 250 to the wheels with piggyback. That, in my opinion, can be safe with piggybacks and the right upgrades. Thats probably about all I need anyway. I dont want a monster.
Oh, what exactly was the factory rating for HP on the s4 TII's - I heard 187 and 182. Which one. Also, is that rwhp or flywheel hp?
By the way. You guys are great. Thanks for all the input!
Last edited by saltlakebay; 04-01-03 at 06:13 PM.
#18
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Originally posted by saltlakebay
I've also heard rumors that this type reads higher. Someone said a "mustang??" Dyno will give 10-15 less HP.
I've also heard rumors that this type reads higher. Someone said a "mustang??" Dyno will give 10-15 less HP.
Similar to the DynoDynamics found in Australia, but they actually ramp the car upwards to increase load, if I'm not mistaken.
#19
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i had my car done on a mustang dyno "nice piece of equip" but he also told me that my HP might be 10-15 HP lower than a dynojet but his numbers where more realistic.
he put in type of motor, weight, temp of the air, humididty, of the air and took the RPMs from one of the trailing plug wires
now i did notice that while in the car i was at redline the dyno was only at say 6000 RPM
he put in type of motor, weight, temp of the air, humididty, of the air and took the RPMs from one of the trailing plug wires
now i did notice that while in the car i was at redline the dyno was only at say 6000 RPM
#21
Originally posted by nillahcaz
A dyno jet will automaticly put in air temp, humididty, and elavation. The weight should have nothing to do with power out put. The only reson to put a higher load on the car is so it "feels" the same to the person that normaly drives it.
A dyno jet will automaticly put in air temp, humididty, and elavation. The weight should have nothing to do with power out put. The only reson to put a higher load on the car is so it "feels" the same to the person that normaly drives it.
#23
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th weight does have soemthing to do with the dyno numbers ad load cauuse when i was doing quarter mile runs my tires kept spining cause they where all that hot
so he put my car weight in at 10,000LBS and told me to drop the clutch all i did was a burn out on the dyno drums to warm up my tires all he did was raise the weight of the car to add more load to let me does this
so it does play a roll
so he put my car weight in at 10,000LBS and told me to drop the clutch all i did was a burn out on the dyno drums to warm up my tires all he did was raise the weight of the car to add more load to let me does this
so it does play a roll
#24
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I would assume your AFRs to be worthless because of the CAT
I've actually heard the opposite from 2 dynoshops. They stated the converter will actually give a truer reading as no air is being dumped into the cat at WOT. Makes sense that the ratio will not change. Sure, perhaps more fuel will be converted, but the ratio will be the same.
Can someone prove them wrong?
However, I do agree that a wideband reading is much much better.
You won't get 275 RWHP without standalone
But, I do want a standalone on my car. It is better and safer.