Hi fellas. I finally took the car in for a HP run yesterday and was surprised to see my car put out decent power.

To see the graphs and detailed mods you can go to this link:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=11363


MAX HP: 215.7 MAX TORQUE: 186.8

- Stock Motor (140,000 miles), Stock TB, Stock injectors and pump, Stock Turbo and Wastegate, Stock ignition.

Mods that mattered: Cone intake w/TID mod, Down Pipe, Highflow Cat Converter, RP50 2.5" Catback.

Rock solid 8lbs of boost reading on autometer guage

I just can believe at how rich I was running at the top end with stock injectors. Even after leaning it out 8% I was still running pig rich. I think it really hurt my numbers. I also need to put in a manual boost controller. I wonder how much more power I could have gotten with 10 or 12 lbs of boost instead of 8.

** Moderators. I didnt see a Dyno section. If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it. **

 

I cant get picture to load. Lets see if this linked image works:

 

3-5k is pretty lean i would try to richen it up to upper 11's

 

11's?? It was my understanding that 14 was stoich.. or perfect a/f. 11 to 1 is pretty damn rich.


Or, am i missing something?

 

at WOT you want it in the 11s...stoich is for cruising

 

Stoich means a theoretically correct ratio for the oxygen atoms to react with the hydrocarbon fuel. Stoich closer to 15:1. The best power ratio for premium unleaded is usually about 12:1, while the best economy for cruise is slightly lean at about 16:1. Sometimes turbocharged engines are run at a richer mixture at WOT so that the extra fuel cools the engine, reducing the chance for detonation. I suggest that you have someone knowledgeable tune your engine while you watch and learn.

That chart is diffucult to read, but it looks like you are getting a fuel dump or airflow restriction around 5K rpm that is causing a stumble.

 

Yeah. I definately will do tuning, but not until I get many of the modifications I have lined up put into the engine. This run was primarily to see where I was in regards to Horsepower and a/f ratios before upgrading.

I only did 2 runs. I didnt have a chance to tune.

Thanks also for the input on the a/f ratios. I totally understand that I dont want to go lean, but I figured at wide open throttle I would still want to be a little leaner than 11 or 12 to 1. Better safe that sorry I suppose

 

personally i think anything past 12:1 is pushing it... then agian ive blown a motor so i try to be conservative now

 

Just out of curiosity, does my dyno seem decent to you folks for the mods?

Is there a particular place on the forum I can look to compare.

I only want a max of 275 rwhp because unitl the engine blows i'm not going stand alone.

My plans are for the s5 manifold and turbo in my closet to get a cold side upgrade. 650 cc ot 750 cc injectors in the secondaries, a front mount, msd 6a, and walbro with rewire. amond other things..

 

for 8 thats pretty good

 

You won't get 275 RWHP without standalone.

 

it's been done before

 

How did you get those AFR readings?

If the wideband was after your cat the readings are inacturate. Also, the sensor needs to be perpendicular to the exhaust flow.

Those numbers look really good

 

i have just finished rebuilding my car and run in, running 8 psi off boost with a microtech and an cold air intake with a 3inch exhaust system and was able 2 get 180 RWHP but i had a leaking intake manifold ...

witha 10 psi u should get somewehere between 210-230 hp at the wheels

 

RXHEVN: yeah that's what i thought.!

I have aftermarket management, Hi-Flow turbo & big pump, and other small mods. Let you guess what i'm getting.

225 rwhp @ .6 BAR!

I'm in australia so there's a little indifference in the dynos. Ah RX, i just noticed you're from sydney! There's an article on the net somewhere that explains the differences between the Dynojet and Dynodynamic Dynometers.

 

Well.. Thats what I was worried about. It was a tailpipe sniffer type thing. It was mounted in a tube which was stuck into one of the tailpipes (manifold side). I understand that the readings can be delayed, but wasnt sure if it was 100% accurate.

According to the autometer guage. Its quite possible I was boosting higher. I doubt lower .. lol

I've also heard rumors that this type reads higher. Someone said a "mustang??" Dyno will give 10-15 less HP.

For comparison, my friend came with an 86 n/a with a fresh streetported engine and pulled 120 rwhp. My other friend with boost problems in his street ported 90 TII got 199 rwhp. I think he was hitting 4 or 5 lbs on the top end. Both had intake and some exhaust mods.

Overall, I was just surprised it came out so high. I figured I would hit 200 tops. One thing though. The nose of the car was at the garage door which was open and it was only about 45 degrees F outside

Umm.. other than that, I may only shoot for 250 to the wheels with piggyback. That, in my opinion, can be safe with piggybacks and the right upgrades. Thats probably about all I need anyway. I dont want a monster.

Oh, what exactly was the factory rating for HP on the s4 TII's - I heard 187 and 182. Which one. Also, is that rwhp or flywheel hp?

By the way. You guys are great. Thanks for all the input!

 

a/f



max for #1 and #2 runs

 

Mustang Dyno's place the car under higher loads than DynoJets. Mustangs seem to be read 10-15% lower than DynoJets.

Similar to the DynoDynamics found in Australia, but they actually ramp the car upwards to increase load, if I'm not mistaken.

 

i had my car done on a mustang dyno "nice piece of equip" but he also told me that my HP might be 10-15 HP lower than a dynojet but his numbers where more realistic.

he put in type of motor, weight, temp of the air, humididty, of the air and took the RPMs from one of the trailing plug wires

now i did notice that while in the car i was at redline the dyno was only at say 6000 RPM

 

A dyno jet will automaticly put in air temp, humididty, and elavation. The weight should have nothing to do with power out put. The only reson to put a higher load on the car is so it "feels" the same to the person that normaly drives it.

 

Load is placed on the car in an effort to simulate "real" world hp numbers, that's why the weight you enter is important. I know of a few turbo cars that have a hard time building boost on a dynojet because there is no load.

 

I would assume your AFRs to be worthless because of the CAT.

Build yourself Techedge Wideband kit. Be great for the direction your heading.

James

 

th weight does have soemthing to do with the dyno numbers ad load cauuse when i was doing quarter mile runs my tires kept spining cause they where all that hot

so he put my car weight in at 10,000LBS and told me to drop the clutch all i did was a burn out on the dyno drums to warm up my tires all he did was raise the weight of the car to add more load to let me does this

so it does play a roll

 

Thats a mightly bold statement.. Can you elaborate.

I've actually heard the opposite from 2 dynoshops. They stated the converter will actually give a truer reading as no air is being dumped into the cat at WOT. Makes sense that the ratio will not change. Sure, perhaps more fuel will be converted, but the ratio will be the same.

Can someone prove them wrong?

However, I do agree that a wideband reading is much much better.

I disagree 110% It can be done. Easily! Super Easy.. Easy as pie. Give me some cash and I will show you.

But, I do want a standalone on my car. It is better and safer.

 

275 w/o a standalone is an easy affair. 325 w/o a standalone is even attainable without too much trouble