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anyone ever make their own exhaust manifolds? for turbo

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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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88rxn/a's Avatar
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
anyone ever make their own exhaust manifolds? for turbo

i was thinking about this today..i have a friend that is pretty crafty and a glorified welder...i could buy the flanges from mazdatrix (or somewhere else if found cheaper) and biuld one myself...i probably have to fab up a downpipe also but its not a big deal....what size is the pipes normally??i can get my hands on some thick pipipng and i have a MIG welder also...

but where do i get the flange for the turbo?
is it difficult to weld the pipes to the turbo flange?
this could prob. be done for under $100 easily...
or is it difficult and id be waisting my time?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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I made my own Exhaust manifold for my 6 port turbo project. The pipes were 2.5", If you buy a racing beat flange, 2.5" fits right inside the holes for ease of welding.
For a stock turbo, you can make the flange using a gasket as a template, and cutting it with a plasma cutter/ torch.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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It can be done and done well thats for sure....its all a matter of personal preference and the situation.

When I upgraded I found a good deal on a greddy log style (it was on a parts car along with a 45mm wastegate) so I went that route...but do what you want, it can be done - just take the time to do it well so you don't have to repair it after 20,000kms.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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You can't buy the flange that mates with the turbo, I made my own.... which let me tell you it took forever!! I used 1/4" plate...

You can buy the flange for the motor and the down pipe flange.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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cool..IF i can get a good quality made i might just see if i can sell a few... who knows, it might happen it might not...i just think for my setup ( 2 mazdatrix flanges, 2 inch pipe, 2 1/2 spacer is what become of it) is not as efficent...it might hold up but since it puts the turbo RIGHT against the frame, i really dont like it that way.. im just curious of the fabbing it takes for the pipes to connect the flanges.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:08 AM
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2.5" O.D., what are you running 40+ psi?

2" is most common for street use; 1 bar and under

2 1/8" is what we use for 20+ psi, and just general race cars

Just make sure if you are using 304, to use atleast a .100" wall, we use .125" on the 304, and .100" on the 321...

You're getting this TIG welded right?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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simple sugestions...
im not looking for crazy boost...looking for reliability and simply a little cleaner setup..

why wouldnt a mig work?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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MIG is fine.
Use the Racing Beat 1/8" thick wall pipe stuff and engine flange.
I think Mazdatrix just resells them.

I wouldn't use SS304.
If I was going SS, I would go SS321 or nothing.
SS321 is a lot more expensive, but it's a lot more stronger than SS304.


-Ted
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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Nope, in the entire history of time, no one has ever made their own turbo header.


Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
i was thinking about this today..i have a friend that is pretty crafty and a glorified welder...i could buy the flanges from mazdatrix (or somewhere else if found cheaper) and biuld one myself...
The Mazdatrix flanges are Racing Beat, so you can also get them from RB.

i probably have to fab up a downpipe also but its not a big deal....what size is the pipes normally??
The last one I did used 2.25" OD SCH 40 pipe. Weld els are available from most industrial plumbing suppliers for generally under $10 each. Ask them if they have scraps or offcuts of pipe nipples otherwise they will probably make you buy a 20 foot section of straight pipe when you only really need a foot or so.

but where do i get the flange for the turbo?
Make it. Or from a company like http://www.atpturbo.com

is it difficult to weld the pipes to the turbo flange?
Very easy. Bolt the flange down to a thick piece of metal to help avoid warpage and go nuts. Most of the els come with a chamfer already at the joint to help with weld penetration so even a smallish welder can handle some pretty big pipe sizes easily. If you have less then 150A or so you will need to concentrate your heat on the flange and not the pipe. If you have the current, then crank it and just run a bead directly on the joint.

this could prob. be done for under $100 easily...
Maybe...But the price of pipe adds up when buying in small quantities. Still it won't be more then $200.

or is it difficult and id be waisting my time?
If you have the talent, time and equipment, then go for it.

Also see this page:
http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
Nope, in the entire history of time, no one has ever made their own turbo header.
leave it to you to be a smart ***!...

i know of a muffler shop that gives me great deals...he sometimes gives me leftovers...

this is just an IDEA stage right now of what i want to do....
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 09:53 AM
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I don't think anything at the muffler shop will be of help, except perhaps the welder. The tubing used in turbo headers is a lot thicker then what you use to make an exhaust. SCH 40 pipe is about 1/4" thick.
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
well, i havent done any research as far as locationg my tubing anywhere yet, but im sure i can find a deal somewhere close by..

thanks for the input..

ive been to busy catching up to the house maintanence (sp?) because of the rain...

when i get this going ill snap some pics and reprt my progress
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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For tubing, go to the Yellow Pages and look up "pipe". Residential plumbing suppliers will not have what you need but industrial suppliers will. You can get stainless or mild steel very cheaply.
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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From: MA
where can i get an SS flange for the engine exhaust?
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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This topic came up in a recent post on here.
I will be making one in the next few months, I'll be sure to post my progress for reference.
I second aaron on the weld ells. Go to www.mcmaster.com and put in 45605K516 into the search box
schedule 40 304L stainless weld ell for $12.95 Bolt the flange to the biggest piece of steel you can. It will still warp but this will help. Count on having it milled flat again after welding. I had to do this on a header I made for my a 12A. I made my flanges out of 3/8" 304 SS flatstock. If you don't have access to a mill to bore the big holes this can be trickey. Also if you have access to an Acetylene torch heat the finished manifold cherry red then bury it in sand over night. This will relieve a lot of stress and prevent cracking cracking. Take pics.
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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From: ludlow, pa
great INFO. ill keep that in mind
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