2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

anyone else have this problem?

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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:12 AM
  #1  
leastdesireablerx7's Avatar
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Question anyone else have this problem?

okay, when i cold start my car i have to immediately step on the gas and keep it revvin' until the engine warms up (usually about a minute). if i don't do that, the engine just dies. once warm, it's all good. wtf? i checked the alternator and it puts out okay. any ideas?
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:20 AM
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This is a normal occurance. DO you have your emmissions equipment removed? also the BAC and other stuff people normally remove adds to idle issues when cold.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:25 AM
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Check the thermowax.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:25 AM
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I have this problem too on very cold days. My Microtech isn't tuned though since its running way too rich and emissions has been removed. I've compensated by slightly raising my idle about 100RPM's more. Not the best way but a temporary fix. Seems to be ok once it has warmed up.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:27 AM
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From: Zeeland/Holland ,Michigan
it either caused by hands removing/playing with things that affect vac. or idle.

or, you just need to get your car in running order(i.e. a proper tune up)
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:37 AM
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This is NOT a normal occurance. You either have a bad sensor, or you need a tune up.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:41 AM
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From: california
well, i did buy the car used (about a month ago) and the car never idled correctly (idles around 1700 rpm). i checked the bac and it seems to be fine (i unplugged it, put power to it, got the clicking sound...). all emmissions stuff are intact and stock except for a shitty-*** exhaust system (looks like a cherry bomb or whatever they call it).
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:44 AM
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Good god! It IDLES at 1700?!?!
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:46 AM
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From: bay area
Is your throttle cable stuck? Does the idle settle down after it warms up or is it always that high?
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:56 AM
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From: california
yea, it idles at around 1700. sometimes, it's nice and idles at 1500. lol. i've checked the throttle cable. it's okay. the idle is always like that after it is warm. i'm still working on the idle. if i can't get it to idle correctly by the end of next week, i'm gonna push this car into the bay. any ideas on the charging problem?
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:11 AM
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From: Zeeland/Holland ,Michigan
clean your bac. try adjusting its screw.

if your daring you can try the idle screw near the tb (waits for someone to complain about how that will mess things up....)
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:14 AM
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Its not going to mess things up if its DONE CORRECTLY! The FSM is the greatest guide EVER to setting idle controls correctly and accurately. HOWEVER, the 1500 idle needs to come down, before the idle mixtures/etc, will even WORK! There is something bigger wrong here. Poss binding throttle cable, or someone has been adjusting stuff without proper education...
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:32 AM
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From: california
j-rat, what do you suggest i look for first?
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:44 AM
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wow, thats a loaded question.... generally, I would look for the obvious stuff first. Cracked, missing vac lines. if every thing seems to be intact, then I might start spraying carb cleaner in certain spots, and listening for idle changes. I would also look at the throttle stops, and the throttle cable. Then I would check the water line to the thermo-wax, which may really be your problem (bad thermo-wax). There are several variables that could be affecting your idle, but basically, high idle on startup is controlled by the Accelerated Warmup system then the thermowax, which is basically a wax pellet that serves as sort of a "choke" (bad analogy, but I couldnt come up with a better one).

On startup, with a bone stock car, you should get a jump in revs to 3k. then a gradual decrease to about 1500 or so. After the motor is warmed up, the idle decreases to the factory setting of approx 800. The 3k is controlled by 2 things. A sensor located on the bottom right hand of the radiator (as facing towards the REAR of the car), and an air bypass solenoid. Once that cycle is over, the thermowax takes over. After warm water gets to the thermowax, the idle should lower.

If the thermowax and AWS systems are working, and your idle remains high, now its a possible vac leak, and or bad timing.

Confused yet? Cause after reading that, I am too!...
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:49 AM
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j-rat and everyone else, thanks for the quick replies. this is my first rx7 and my first rotary so i'm not too familiar with these engines. i'll try all the things you mentioned and i'll post the results. thanks again fellas.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:51 AM
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Good luck man, I wish I could point you in the exact direction, but unfortunately its not that easy. Let me be the first to recommend you download the FSM. www.FC3s.org has it. Its your FC bible, and may help you solve some of your problems.

Jarrett
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