boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

I want to re do it all because the previous owner tore that **** up and my car wont start after i gotta rebuild and new radiator and fan. They had the old fan hooked up to the fuel pump relay behind the drivers head light and I ripped it out with out knowing. I got 3 extra ones that are a lil cut up but has pretty much everything that I got for free. I've been trying to get this motor to start for over 4 months now so might as well re do everything. Any tips I'd appreciate thanks.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Sorry forgot to fill u in on some basics it's all stock just has a street port and a 255lph warblo fuel pump

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Engine harness? That one plugs in to the (obviously, everything in the engine and ECU) but there are a couple more plugs up the kick panel. Other harnesses... just start pulling them out. Disconnect them slowly because the old *** plastic connectors like to break. Any plastic ties holding the harness down will break anyways, just replace them later with zipties. Once out, make good solder joints, not butt connectors or scotch-locks. Those types of connections are prone to corrosion or getting loose over time. Wrap everything with electrical tape, then find some good fiberglass or cloth tape to cover that with.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man appreciate I was always scared to break those clips do I gotta take my dash off at all? and ya I'm just talkin about the engine harnesses both of them

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Not sure what you mean about both of them, I only have ever pulled one engine harness. Dash doesn't need to come out.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Well i thought the driver side harness was different from the passenger side harness but I guess it must wrap around underneath the bumper or somethin won't be able to see my fc for probably another week so I'll check it out once I get to it

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Looking at the engine bay for a normal left hand drive car, on the left side is what the FSM calls the "emissions" harness. This connects to your fuel injectors and most of your sensors. It has two plugs which connect to the stock ECU.

On the right side of the engine bay you will have the "Engine" or "Front" harnesses which are going to contain stuff for your ignition system and crank angle sensors. It varies a little bit depending on whether you have a turbo or non turbo. These harnesses are harder to remove.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Well I kinda wanna re do both of them or get all brand new wiring harness but those are a bitch to find. And I have a turbo motor in a na car .

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i was always told to NEVER solder any connection for the harness.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

That doesn't even make sense. Butt connectors and scotch clips are horrible ideas for using in something that's exposed to heat and moisture. After soldering, you heat shrink the joint. There's no possible chance for it to pull apart once repaired, and the heat shrink works better and lasts longer than electrical tape. You sort of can put heat shrink on a butt connector, but most times the size you have to use will not shrink down to seal against the wires, not making a weather tight seal making it extremely susceptible to corrosion. On top of that, butt connectors are longer, making the joint more prone to breaking since it has less area to flex.

There are butt connectors that have heat shrink tubes built on to them, but they're pretty costly. They work wonderfully, and save so much time, but they're subject to the same flexibility issues as a regular butt connector (sometimes even worse). There are times where solder connections become an issue, but not in an automotive application. High data rate transfer wires (like high speed internet) should not use solder connections since it can create noise in the transmission.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i dont know. ive never EVER had a problem crimping the wires. of course i also have an awesome crimping tool. idk, i see the crimp as something the oems and most companies do, so i prefer that method.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

There's nothing wrong with proper crimp connections, emphasis on proper. A $10 crimper and some butt connectors from Radio Shack aren't proper crimps. Other than PCBs, I can't think of much in an FC that is soldered. Proper crimp connections are everywhere.

Solder has it's place too, but can be more susceptible to vibration failure, which is an issue in automotive wiring.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

All the factory wiring splices in my harness are soldered.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

I can't speak for an emissions harness, but I just had my dash harness apart and every splice was a crimp connection wrapped in electrical tape. These were factory splices as well.