any advantages to premix and keeping the omp?
#1
any advantages to premix and keeping the omp?
Did a couple of searches and found minimal input on this. What do you guys think??? My oil is so clear that you can't see it on the dip stick unless you look closely so I know my mop is working ok but I would also like to premix if it would help anything out. THe reason I'm not going completely premix is because I'm about as abscent minded as they come and would forget to premix one time and blow my engine up. So anyways some good input would be great! Thanks.
#4
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by hondahater
oh thats right, premix is something you do to toaster ovens when they start making the toast to dry! For some reason i was thinking it was something we did to our cars.
Better lubrication, still get the carbon build-up. Not as good as straight premix, but better than just the MOP.
#5
thanks thats what I was thinking. Hey the reason I was thinking about doing this is because I have my turbo off right now and found that when I put my fingers in the exhaust ports to touch the rotors they have a rough surface is this normal or should it be smooth??? Thanks.
#6
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by hondahater
thanks thats what I was thinking. Hey the reason I was thinking about doing this is because I have my turbo off right now and found that when I put my fingers in the exhaust ports to touch the rotors they have a rough surface is this normal or should it be smooth??? Thanks.
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I'm assuming that stuff like guaranteed to pass emissions, sea foam, and other extremely heavy detergents would help our engines like they do piston engines.
Somebody mentioned lubricated carb cleaner or something instead of water, but I believe everybody thought that could take away some lube and hurt the engine and its not tested.
So, uh, water works, redlining should helps, detergents should help.....
I don't know too much about going all premix, or think i really want to try, but on s5s... can u just like unplug the omp.... or what about removing vacuum lines. If its easy I don't see much problem with trying it, afterall, it might clean it out.
Somebody mentioned lubricated carb cleaner or something instead of water, but I believe everybody thought that could take away some lube and hurt the engine and its not tested.
So, uh, water works, redlining should helps, detergents should help.....
I don't know too much about going all premix, or think i really want to try, but on s5s... can u just like unplug the omp.... or what about removing vacuum lines. If its easy I don't see much problem with trying it, afterall, it might clean it out.
#11
s4's are easy to remove because its all mechanical witch is also good because they are very reliable however the s5's are electric so you have to remove it and block it off but still keep it wired up so that it won't through a code and put your car in limp mode. Also since they are electric they tend to go out more than the s4's.
#12
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by hondahater
so with carbon build up being bad is there a way to take it off without going into the engine??? I've heard of using water to clean the rotors is there anything else???
Not really, no.
Using a bottle of good fuel system cleaner every tank helps.
Nothing will remove this hardened carbon.
#13
casio isn't here.
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Originally Posted by hondahater
THe reason I'm not going completely premix is because I'm about as abscent minded as they come and would forget to premix one time and blow my engine up.
on that note, i planned to make a decal for my gas tank; something like "Premixed Gas ONLY" or something. if that doesnt remind you, you're not absent minded, you're retarded.
Last edited by casio; 10-25-04 at 11:45 PM. Reason: type-o, sucka !
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This is just a crazy idea, but is there a way to jump the omp connection so it won't throw a code? It would make sense that you could just add some resistance and complete a circuit and fool a silly computer.
#15
lol, funny **** man! But yes that is a damn good idea! a nice little white sticker (black paint) on the door would work perfect, and this is why I love this site! great ideas! oh yeah and scathcart would it be bad to run premix, omp, and injector cleaner all at the same time
#16
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by sar
This is just a crazy idea, but is there a way to jump the omp connection so it won't throw a code? It would make sense that you could just add some resistance and complete a circuit and fool a silly computer.
Just put a sticker on your gas cap that says "Feed Me Oil".
#19
Cripes, there's a 30 page long "Premix" thread right near the top of the archives, or just search for "premix" - you'll be reading for days.
As for putting premix in, I haven't had any problems forgetting. Annoying my passenger, yes, but forgetting, no. It feels weird to put gas in my other car now (without premix)... like I'm forgetting something.
-=Russ=-
As for putting premix in, I haven't had any problems forgetting. Annoying my passenger, yes, but forgetting, no. It feels weird to put gas in my other car now (without premix)... like I'm forgetting something.
-=Russ=-
#22
I know, I know enough about premix to know how to premix an s5 and I have an s4. I've read every thread on premixing just nothing comes up about premixing while you still have the mop and if that is good or not. How much to use etc... I WANT TO PREMIX AND USE MY MOP, IS THIS GOOD??? maybe yall see what I"m saying now, lol..
#23
The general consensus that I've seen:
If you just want added protection, a 400:1 mix is good if the MOP is still operating. However, if the MOP fails, 400:1 isn't going to help keep things running for terribly long.
The main complaint about the stock oil injection system is the massive carbon buildup it creates. Premixing on top of it doesn't help reduce carbon any.
You can get adapter plates that use the MOP and instead of drawing from the crankcase draw from a separate tank that you fill with 2-stroke oil. This is sort of a "Best of both worlds" - no premixing in the gas tank, but still burning an oil designed to be burned.
-=Russ=-
If you just want added protection, a 400:1 mix is good if the MOP is still operating. However, if the MOP fails, 400:1 isn't going to help keep things running for terribly long.
The main complaint about the stock oil injection system is the massive carbon buildup it creates. Premixing on top of it doesn't help reduce carbon any.
You can get adapter plates that use the MOP and instead of drawing from the crankcase draw from a separate tank that you fill with 2-stroke oil. This is sort of a "Best of both worlds" - no premixing in the gas tank, but still burning an oil designed to be burned.
-=Russ=-