I just bought this damn car and I'm running out of patience with this thing.....

Car was having idling issues when I first brought it home. Checked CELs and it gives me the tps code. Ok, atleast I know where to start.

I got the car started,idling (rough). I drove the car up and down the street with the bad idle issue. Parked it and Now it won't start.

Here's what I have-

I checked spark,I have spark.
I did the de-flooding process several times.
I checked fuel, I have fuel all the way to beginning of the fuel rail. (Driver side opening, above the spark plugs)
Injectors have power (checked at ecu plug and injector plug)
Check and NO vacuum leaks


Now I spray some starting fluid and it starts and dies.....

Can this be a AFM issue? Or injectors not firing?


Thanks for the help

 

Did you do a compression check before buying the car ?? A blown front / rear will give like a big cam big block idle. It will drive ok (less power) but won't idle for ****.
How many miles ??

If you haven't done a comp check, do that before wasting time on anything. If that checks out, change everything out (fuel filter/ oil/ coolant/ all fluids) although that won't cause rough idle, it should be done anytime you buy a used car. I don't trust anyone who says "I already changed it".

If it doesn't start, could be an AFM , fuel pump, etc...
If it starts and idles really rough could be timning, vacuum, or someone messed with the air/fuel mixture....can be a number of things.
If it tries to idle on it's own (idle up/down) could be a TPS adjustment or vacuum leak.
Then again, when you buy someone else's car, who knows what was fucked with.

 

First off you already had a thread about this issue and stopped posting in that thread so there really isn't a need to create another thread focusing on the very same issue. W/that said, you could jumper the fuel check connector to see if the fuel switch in the AFM is problematic. Secondly, did you pull a plug to see if there was a fuel mist being shot out the rotor housing as the engine was turned over? Thirdly, did you spray carb cleaner into the correct ports after Rotary Evolution set you straight on which specific ports he was talking about? Fourthly, did you use the LED light to determine if the ECU was pulsing a ground to the primary injectors?

 

Comp check has been done. I had a thread here earlier last week. Comp is good.

Fuel pump was bad when I bought it. Replaced and it starts. I checked and confirmed all of the above. I was going to do a tps adjustment with leds since I can't find my multimeter.
Idling issue has been found.

I parked it and now it won't start. That's the new issue

 

Did you replace the fuel pump with one which was designed for your particular engine?

 

Satch- yes sir. I did what revolution suggest. Now I have determined that the whole idling issue is the tps is outta spec.

Pulled the plugs and NO traces of fuel. I checked the injector plug with leds and yes I'm good there.

I checked all 4 pins at the ecu and I HAVE power. I HAVE NOT checked the ecu plugs with the leds

 

Fuel pump was replaced with a correct one.

 

An error code for the TPS generally means the wiring connection is snafu as opposed to being out of spec. If the G/R wire was set to .5 volts or 1.5 volts, spec being .8 to 1 volts, then the ECU would not spit out an error code. So, your TPS issue is more than it plainly being out of spec.

You need a multimeter!

 

I will get one today after work today. Can the CEL be the reason why its not firing up?

Thanks

 

If you are referring to the TPS then probably not.

And you really should pull a spark plug as suggested and see if there is a spray of fuel coming out of the plug hole. If there isn't any then that would give you a heads up. And before doing this you should jumper the fuel check connector and try to start the car. If the car does not start then pull a plug w/the jumper intact. Your injectors, primary, might be clogged or operating improperly or the fuel pressure might be insufficient as well. There are a number of things which could be contributing to your no start issue.

 

I'm having a similar issue. thanks satch, I'm going to try those steps tomorrow

 

OK. I got the car started. Checked my connections at my fuel pump. So that fixed it.

Now,I set my TPS Narrow at 1.0 and Wide range at .8
With a Multimeter.

I fired up the car and started it to notice the car had a stumble/hesitation at idle.
The car also had occasional backfire along with white smoke.
White smoke DID NOT smell like coolant. It had a FUEL scent to it.I'm NOT missing any coolant.

I also had a CEL,it was Code 10,which is intake thermoswitch AFM.

Now I'm suspecting my TPS or my AFM is bad.anyone confirm this?

Thanks

 

You might want to check the connection at the AFM as it relates to the IAT. Wire is Green. You could also take the voltage reading at the ECU at pin 2L, smallest plug bottom row third pin from the left. Should read 1 to 2 volts w/the car at full operating temperature.

 

So I put my + lead on pin 2L and ground - lead. And check voltage?

Thanks

 

Yes, and the negative lead, Black, can be placed on one of the ECU mounting bolts. Measure w/key to on, and again, the engine at full operating temp.

And while you're at it you could measure pin 2G, Green/Red wire for this is the TPS and it should read 1 volt w/key to on and the engine at full operatiing temperature.

 

Measuring my tps from my ecu....will that confirm my measurement from the TPS plug?

 

It should.

 

I'm currently checking 2L and 2K as we speak. I can hear my fuel pump circuit relay clicking like crazy! Any clue?

 

Is this w/key to on engine not running or w/the engine running?

 

When running and key on,engine off

 

If you are certain it is the Circuit Opening relay then you need to make sure the B/W wire in the top row center position is getting a constant 12 volts w/key to on and not spiking/dropping. This wire is powered by the 15 amp Engine fuse found in the interior fuse box. This same fuse causes the Main Relay to click and activate w/key to on as well. If you unplugged the Circuit Opening Relay and turned the key to on and checked the Main Relay to see if it is clicking like the other relay or not or if it is behaving itself and just clicking once w/the key turned to on would help to narrow down things.

You could also focus on the wire colors to the Circuit Opening Relay and then pull the relay and take it to the battery to provide voltage to the center position top row spot where the B/W wire went to and place a ground to the relay terminal where the Brown wire was connected to to see if it clicks repeatedly or not. Then place voltage to the terminal on the top row far left position where the other B/W goes to and then place a ground to the bottom row far left position where the solid Black wire went to to also see if the relay clicks repeatedly. This will help you to determine if the relay or the wiring is your problem.

 

I placed my finger on the relay itself while it was clicking and I could feel the click in my fingers. I'm about 95% sure that's it but I'll will do what you suggested to focus in on it. Thanks you for your help sir so far. Thank you

 

I made sure it was the circuit opening relay(behind pass headlight) as my helper gave the car a little gas while it idled..it would click. It would also click during idle randomly.

I check the connector that goes to the circuit opening relay and I have no B/L wire in the center.I did check the voltage and it did NOT have 12v

 

Fuel pump resistor relay is what clicks behind the headlight. I apologize...

 

I typed B/W and not B/L but on to other important matters. If the fuel relay by the headlight is repeatedly clicking then you can bypass that relay by jumpering one of the Blue/Red wires to one of the Blue/Green wires in the same plug.

And the center position top row wire of the Circuit Relay should have power with key to on.

And a possible cause for the clicking of the underdash Circuit Relay is because the ground signal on the Brown wire coming from the ECU is faulty. Jumpering the fuel check connector would aleviate this.