2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

(Another try) Electronic 6 port actuators

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Old Feb 21, 2003 | 03:13 PM
  #26  
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Hey did I miss something? Are you people that are talking about using your airpumps using them with an S4 car? If yes how?
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Old Feb 21, 2003 | 04:44 PM
  #27  
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How about finding a continuous duty 12VDC solenoid? Shouldn't be too hard to find. Use the existing pneumatic solenoid output to turn on the input of an SSR, and connect the SSR output to the battery and mechanical solenoid. The existing output is 12VDC, right?

As far as relocation, I think the best bet is to come up with a cable system and mount the solenoid away from high heat. You could fabricate a solid bar or linkages, but binding might occur during activation.
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Old Feb 23, 2003 | 06:35 PM
  #28  
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The new system will get rid of pneumatics all together.
I'm trying to avoid a linkage system, but if the system fails due to heat I will redesign it.
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 11:17 AM
  #29  
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What kind of pull force to you expect is required to actuate the valves. I was looking at continous duty solenoids and didn't know what force I would need?
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 11:21 AM
  #30  
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This is a very interesting topic. Maybe as progress is made. we can sticky this!
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Old Feb 24, 2003 | 12:12 PM
  #31  
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Thaniel, I don't expect the force required to be very much. I can't say exactly what it is because of the variation in friction based on carbon buildup, ect. The valves in a clean setup move with ease.
This design variable is eliminated when using servos, which pull more current and push harder when an objecting force is present.
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Old Feb 25, 2003 | 11:42 AM
  #32  
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I wouldn't think it would take a lot either. Guess I'll have to try and measure how much it would take somehow.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 02:30 PM
  #33  
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Just checkin in. School is over in about 3 weeks, so I'll get back to it then.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 05:33 PM
  #34  
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heres something to try...

the service manual says to test the solonid, simply connect 12v and the solonid actuates. you could run a set of wires along the connector, leavingit plugged in or not. as soon as you activate the solonid via switch or rpm switch, the solonid actuates. this way, you dont have to do anything. once the solonid is activated, it opens the passageway from the air pump to 6 ports. i took apart everyting down to the intake and followed the vaccum lines. there would be a continous flow if it werent for that solonid.

on a second note, if you take the air control valve off, youll see that on 89-92 acv, there is a little vaccum nipple. that is the passage the air pump follows all the way to the solonid to the 6pa. the 86-88 use exause back pressure, and the acv doesnt have that nipple. try changing the acv and then there will always be that constant flow of pressure up to the solonid until the solonid actuates.

ive also made a switch to tell me when the 6pa opens. i use ma metal 90 degree angled metal L shapped thing i stole from work, cut it and used insulating material to seperate the next part of the switch. ontop of the insulationg material, is an isloated piece of floppy metal, which has a wire soldered to it. this is the ground. that metal isnt toughing anything else. now, there is a small cam type of thing at the top of the arm of the 6pa. when it opens fully, it acts as a stopper so the 6pa doesnt open any further. at full open, that cam is touching the stopper. the metal from the switch is between the cam and the stopper. at full open, that cam touches the metal, and the 6pa valve is grounded. the other end of that wire goes into the car, ran to a little light. the positive side of the light is connected, always having power, but no ground. once the 6pa is open, it grounds, turning the light on. the entuire set up costed me the lights. it works. i can see exactally when the 6pa opens. i made 2 switches, one for both 6pa, so i can also see if one side is holding up. it works perfectally, i have pics of the entire thing, but they're not on the site yet

the MAZDA emblem is 8 inches long and just under 1 1/2 inches high. the RX7 emblem is also 8 inches long and just under 1 1/2 inches high. they are both the same size. if you need any other parts, or have questions jsut ask. i work as an rx7 mechanic. heres a link to my personal rx7 site.

http://www.geocities.com/b_timberlake/90RX7.html

because they dont quite fit in where the site is set up right now. if i get enough requests, ill post them early. at 5500 rpm or so, both lights come on. theyre red, but small but bright enough, so as you work your way up to redline, they kick in and stay on. people are like cool whats hapening while those lights are on?
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 05:38 PM
  #35  
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forget the part "

the MAZDA emblem is 8 inches long and just under 1 1/2 inches high. the RX7 emblem is also 8 inches long and just under 1 1/2 inches high. they are both the same size. if you need any other parts, or have questions jsut ask. i work as an rx7 mechanic. heres a link to my personal rx7 site.

somehow when i pasted the link, that got pasted too and i didnt realize it in time. its for ebay.

another thing, the vdi works the same way, so you sould just hook up something to actuate that solonid at any desired time. same thing. there is always positive pressure against the vdi, however its solonid is stopping it. when the solonid isnt actuated, theres actually vaccum keeping it closed. just jump the somonid or hook up a switch to actuate the solonid when u desirte, not the cpu.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 05:41 PM
  #36  
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one final thing. i bored out the intake manifolds with a dremmel, and while doing so, i ported the actual 6pa valve itself. i lowered the opening so when it begins to turn over, its a little lower than stock, so it begins releasing air a little sooner. my engines out right now thanks to hayes rotary, but ill have to see how that worked out.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 05:47 PM
  #37  
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screw it, here come the pics of the switch. i stole enough of the metal to make more of the switched, but its a pain in the ***. i guess i could make a few if people wanted to buy them, but people will have to know. the pics will be up tonight.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 07:01 PM
  #38  
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http://geocities.com/jcinarx7/page22.html?1049931190800

heres the link to all the 6pa switch pictures
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 11:23 AM
  #39  
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Originally posted by jcina7
heres something to try...

ive also made a switch to tell me when the 6pa opens
Excellent idea. It always bothers me not knowing if those ports are opening.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:03 PM
  #40  
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jcina7...nice pants on page 10 . But you have a nice car too
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:58 PM
  #41  
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thanks. what do you guys think of the switch i made, or about the idea of actuating the solonid instead of moving the 6pa by some other means.

...the pants are another issue. you can see the **** that went on by doing a search on "sick **** convertible"
that thing has so many pages of pure crap written about my clothes. i have since changed them.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 01:04 PM
  #42  
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wow. they closed the thread "sick **** convertible"
the site the pictures were on went down, but too bad. people were so mean about my clothes that i took them off and with a towel over my junk, took a digital pic and posted it. the thread is still there, but you cant write anything anymore. its sure funny still reading through it though.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 03:38 PM
  #43  
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Like I said, this is going to be fully electronic, but I REALLY like the switch you made to indicate the ports have opened. Good stuff.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 09:53 PM
  #44  
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thanks. they work well everytime. its neat seeing exactally when they open. its like the louder the engine gets and then two little red lights cone on under the stereo like something just kicked in, at the same time the boost from the vdi and 6pa turn over. its neat. now im going to make a system to just use the solonid and turn it on sooner than the cpu.
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