I have a '87 n/a Base Model, (i'm guessing ...manual windows, Dial wheels, no frills...etc.) I'm in the process of putting in a new aftermarket deck & want/need to bypass the factory amps.

So, I need a little help...#1.) Where are they ? #2.) How many are there ?
#3.) Whats the best way to bypass them ? 4.) Do I HAVE to hook up the "illumination" wires ? #4.) What should i do w/ the white factory wire once the amps are bypassed ?

If anyone can answer questions 1 & 2, that would be great. Thanks a lot guys

 

the FAQ for FC has locations, but if you have a base model and not a luxury coupe, it won't matter because you won't have any.

see last answer
see last answer
only if you have a radio with lumination input... if you don't then you cap the wire off so it can not short to ground.
you would not use it unless you are running new amps mounted in the stock locations.

 

Don't even the Base Models have amps in front ? So this is what I figured i should be wiring. I have an aftermarket harness for my new deck and a new harness to replace the "in dash" harness that was cut to ****.

RX-7 wire colors: ***Wires on my new deck:

LTBlue/Red= 12v+ ***Yellow
LtBlue/White= +Accessory ***Red
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger ***Blue (not using, so tape off both?)
Red/Black=+ Lumination ***Don't need(no orange wire coming from deck)
White=Factory Amp Turn on ***Don't need(no amp wire from deck,tape off factory?)


Front Speakers (maximum of a 15 watt peak from the radio):
LtGreen/Red= Left ***White (Left Front +)
LtGreen/Black= Left ***White/Black stripe (Left Front -)

LtGreen= Right ***Gray (Right Front +)
LtGreen/Yellow=Right ***Gray/Black stripe (Right Front -)

Rear Speakers (if applicable, if you have the amplified rear speakers again the Maximum of 15 watts peak is all the stock speaker amp input can handle):
Brown= Left rear ***Green (Left Rear +)
Brown/White= Left Rear ***Green/Black stripe (Left Rear -)

LtBlue= Right Rear ***Violet (Right Rear +)
LtBlue/Orange=Right Rear ***Violet/Black stripe (Left Rear -)

Please let me know if this is correct, i'm having a hard time w/ this & can't afford profesional installation. Thanks IceMark, a lot.

 

yeah that's how I just set mine up on a new deck. for the antenna crutchfield.com sells the adapter (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1OqUFWD...901&i=120E4901 )

 

I'll get an antenna later if I need because I won't use the radio function...(strictly Ipod or MP3 cd), and my antenna is broken off anyways.

The one main thing that I wasn't sure of was, the speaker wires from the "factory in-dash harness" that have a stripe....is it safe to assume that any of the wires that have a stripe on them (regardless of stripe color) are negative ? So SuiicidalPenguin, this is EXACTLY how you wired your deck in (w/ exception of the antenna) ?

I'm also still unsure of whether or not I have factory amps. The FAQ 2nd Gen Options says that a 40watt amplified stereo is standard, even for the base model. Does this mean the stock cassette deck had a built-in 40w amp, or is it saying that I actually have seperate amps for each speaker that total 40w ? Once again, I have a '87 n/a Base Model, no sport suspension, dial wheels, manual windows..blah blah, almost positive it's a Base model.

*As always, the help is appreciated.

 

90% how I wired mine, the only difference was I had no stereo harness for rear speakers so when installing the speaker the - and + got mixed up so those might be opp on mine & my front speakers where connected to the amp (door speakers I meen since the front dash speakers are on the same wires as the rear for me) I disconnected the amp and ran new wires from the ones that where connected to the amp over.)


Just don't do what I did, I accidentally had my wires tap others and blow fuses (the wires had worn further down) and blew my stereo had to buy a new one. Check your wires just in case they have any exposed spots.

edit~ forgot check your room (7.5A) and Audio (20A) if the stereo doesn't turn on. Mine where blown before I even started. Dunno why lol

 

No that is incorrect. The stripes do not mean positive or negative for the speaker leads. The positive leads are the wires on the clip side of the plug.

...._
--- ---
[+] [+]
[- ] [ -]

Sunroof?

Base model= no,
Luxury or SE = Yes

Anyway, base model = no amp, it uses the stock radio.

Now you could have the front speakers having a amp (some 87.5 models did- but then you would have a SE) and if that is the case the amp is part of the passengers speaker enclosure.

But what is this about the amp anyway??? If you have one you bypass it, if you don't you don't bother.

 

Ok well, i have a sunroof so...it guess it's not base model. The only "extras" i see are, the factory alarm, power mirrors, power sunroof. So that means what, I have a SE model ? So does this mean i only have amps for the front speakers in the dash ?

**Bear with me here while I give a brief history of the vehicles electrical issues.
When i got the car, the owner said it had a draw that would drain the battery in 3-5 days. Fine. The only aftermarket electrical parts on it at the time was a Pioneer Tape player and seperate EQ. So i hook up a multi-meter in-line to the battery(measuring amps) & start pulling fuses to find the draw. When i got to the BTN fuse & pulled it, my draw dropped from about 120ma to nothing. OK, great. So I go in the car and start pulling fuses from the interior fuse box. When i pulled the Room7.5a fuse my draw dropped to a reasonable/normal .50ma or something around there. So, it's now obvious that my draw is on the "Room 7.5a" fuse.

**Here comes the real fun. I take out the fuse and leave it out for a week just to make sure it's the draw that's draining my battery. It is, after sitting more than 1 full week the car started no prob w/ the fuse being out. Obviously, taking out that fuse disables the Alarm and Dome light (as well as other things). BUT, now when I played the radio & opened the door... the radio would shut off...close the door & the radio came back on. So i decide to play w/ the Dome light switch & see what that does. Again, when i switched the Dome light switch to the left (from the middle) the radio turned off, when i switched it to the far right..it cut out the radio again. WOW, PITA !. Needless to say, there seems to be a corrollating issue w/ the dome light.....right ? *All the things stated above happened months ago, don't confuse this paragraph w/ the NEW issues listed below.


Now, last night i tried to hook up the NEW deck just as i stated in my previous post. I got power, the deck showed that it was playing a CD and all the functions worked (it seemed). However, i got NO SOUND at all. This obviously means that i have the speakers wired wrong. Its going to be impossible for me to find wires by their location on the pin housing, because my "in-dash" harness was cut to **** when i pulled out the aftermarket Tape player/EQ that the previous owner put in.

So, remember from before that i had that 7.5a "Room" fuse pulled out so i wouldn't get that draw ? Ok good. When i plugged the NEW deck in last night...i initially wasn't getting any power. In fact, the face of the deck was dimmly blinking intermittenly on and off & not allowing me to change or use any function buttons. CRAP! So, i take the 7.5a "Room" fuse that's been out for months, and put it back in...PRESTO CHANGO the deck gets full power and functions great (with exception of no sound). OK great, so the deck powers on now but....here's my new problem...

Now, : I turn the car off, take out the key, yet i can still turn the stereo on. Not good at all. How can I fix this ? Like i said, i wired everything just like I wrote in my post. I know the speakers are set-up wrong now, but the 12vBattery, and 12v ACC are correct right ?

The help i've got so far has been great, but i'm really gonna need help for this one... One thing i'll say is; i don't care if i have to leave the fuse out even though it disables the dome light and Alarm. IceMark, do you think i could just swap my 12v Memory & 12v ACC wires & that'll stop the deck from being powered on when the key isn't even in ? PLEASE, HELP ! haha

 

IceMark, i know you're a very busy man but, if you can even lead me in the right direction here i'de glady pay you....i'm serious haha. Like i said before i don't care if my deck has no memory, or i have to keep the fuse out or whatever....as long as i can get in my car put a cd in or hook up my ipod & hear music, i don't care what the "side effects" are. i just don't want to have to use my underhood battery disconnect EVERY time i turn the car off & leave it.(due to the draw that will be present again)

BTW: i'm thinking I have a 87.5 Sport Edition...right ?

 

, year sounds like they wired the radio backwards.

, yep...that room fuse should be powering the yellow wire on the aftermarket radio... Without it some radios won't work.

Okay, hook up the amp wire of your new radio (probably blue or Blue w/White strip) to the white mazda amp turn on wire.

The red (accessory lead of the aftermarket radio) needs to go the Mazda accessory wire. The Yellow lead of the aftermarket radio needs to go to the constant 12 volts wire (the wire powered by the room fuse).

Ground of course to the body (I use the bolt under the panel on the center consol on the opposite side of the radio hole).

Now if powering the white wire solves the issue, then check under the glove box at the speaker there. If there is an enclosure just jumper the speaker wires right to the speaker, instead of running them through the amp. If you have 6"+ speakers in the rear (not 4 inch), then there is no rear amp (the rear amp on the 6 inch speakers is bolted to the bottom of the radio cage when you remove the stock radio). If they are 4 inch rear speakers, then each speaker has its own amp which will need to be bypassed (again take the speaker wires directly to the speaker instead of through the amp- you can do that right at the speaker as the factory speaker wires are fine for power up to 50 watts RMS (or 100 watts Peak).

 

Jan 87 through June 87 production for a 87.5, and it would be SE not sport. (Special Edition).

and wired correctly, you won't have the draw to worry about. Wired correctly the draw for the radio when off will be less than 10mA.

 

Ok, they way you just listed the Red and Yellow wires is exactly how i had it. With exception the of the amp wire. The white wire "in-dash" is taped off, and my aftermarket deck doesn't have a amp wire, it only has a Blue wire for antenna. Can i splice that Blue antenna wire from my aftermarket deck into the white amp wire in-dash ?

Now, which problem is this solving ? The no sound problem or the deck being able to power on when there is not even a key in the ignition ? Couldn't I just leave the 12v constant (Yellow & Blue/red stripe) not connected ? I know I would have no memory functions but that's fine. I didn't actually test w/ a MM to see if i still had a draw this time but...if the deck powers on w/ no key in, that's usually an issue...right ?
Thanks a lot for the help man, much appreciated thus far.