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Another No start S5T2

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Old 01-12-11, 03:41 PM
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Question Another No start S5T2

I installed a Rtec 1.8 a few days ago and at the same time I swapped out the injectors. I have not been able to start the motor since then. I know the timing is close enough to start it, I can't find any vacuum hoses disconnected, I know its getting fuel because I can hear the pump running, I have spark to the plugs, it will run a little while on starter fluid and if I crank it long enough it will sputter like its going to start but if I touch the gas pedal it will immediately die.
It ran before I swapped out the parts.

I've spent hours, literally, reading old posts and checking out anything that was mentioned.

Anybody have any ideas????????

ashley
Old 01-12-11, 03:51 PM
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Did you jumper the fuel check connector w/key to on "to hear" the fuel pump or what?
Old 01-12-11, 03:59 PM
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just because the fuel pump is running doesn't mean that fuel is getting into the engine.

sounds like either the timing is off or it's flooded. or both.
Old 01-12-11, 04:59 PM
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Did you check the fuel pressure?
Old 01-12-11, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Did you jumper the fuel check connector w/key to on "to hear" the fuel pump or what?
I did. Its a 2 prong, yellowish plug. I could also hear it run when trying to start the motor. The pump kicks on momentarily right before the key is turned to start.

Thanks for your input.
Old 01-12-11, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Tune
just because the fuel pump is running doesn't mean that fuel is getting into the engine.

sounds like either the timing is off or it's flooded. or both.
It shouldn't be out of time far enough to prevent it starting. I aligned the first timing mark on the pulley with the timing mark on the front cover and then I aligned the pointer on the CAS with the mark above the CAS gear.

I'll pull the plugs and do the de-flooding procedure. Thanks.
Old 01-12-11, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by alritzer
I did. Its a 2 prong, yellowish plug. I could also hear it run when trying to start the motor. The pump kicks on momentarily right before the key is turned to start.

Thanks for your input.
As suggested, testing the fuel pressure would be prudent. Tee the gauge between the fuel filter and the hard line feeding to the engine and look for pressure of 30 psi or so upon cranking.
Old 01-12-11, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by arad99
Did you check the fuel pressure?
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I think it has good pressure because when I first tried to start it the fuel line hose clamp wasn't tight enough and gas sprayed everywhere.
I guess I should invest in a pressure gauge.

thanks
Old 01-12-11, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by alritzer
It shouldn't be out of time far enough to prevent it starting. I aligned the first timing mark on the pulley with the timing mark on the front cover and then I aligned the pointer on the CAS with the mark above the CAS gear.

I'll pull the plugs and do the de-flooding procedure. Thanks.

Did you install the CAS with its black cover removed?
Old 01-12-11, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Tune
Did you install the CAS with its black cover removed?
Yes, I used my thumbs to hold the center piece from rotating.
Old 01-12-11, 09:11 PM
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go back and retrace your steps, you will find something you did wrong. people will just send you running in circles checking every little thing.if cheanged stuff and it ran before thats obviously where you should look first. it will run if you are getting fuel and spark check to make sure you are getting those
do the defllood procedure put a bit of oil in the leading plug holes and it should fire up
Old 01-13-11, 10:35 AM
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I was unplugging sensors, getting ready to remove the UIM and I found that the air intake sensor has one prong broken off. I tried to solder a wire back on but couldn't.

Wonder if that would be enough for a no start. I ordered a new one. Should be here in a few days.
Old 01-13-11, 11:53 AM
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It's unlikely that the AIT sensor would be the cause of the no-start. If it runs on starting fluid, then I'm still leaning towards a fueling issue.
Old 01-13-11, 12:44 PM
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if the IAT is unplugged the computer will default to a setting which should be acceptable for the car to run. It's extremely unlikely that the IAT will fix this.


Did you plug the injectors in correctly? Are the injectors the right size and resistance? Did you use a new gasket when you reinstalled the UIM?
Old 01-13-11, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Tune
if the IAT is unplugged the computer will default to a setting which should be acceptable for the car to run. It's extremely unlikely that the IAT will fix this.


Did you plug the injectors in correctly? Are the injectors the right size and resistance? Did you use a new gasket when you reinstalled the UIM?
Well, OK, I was sure hoping that was the problem. I did use a new gasket. The primarys were just sent out to WitchHunter. The secondarys are 720 cc new ones. I'm pretty sure they were the correct ones.

I can't quite remember but it seems it would be hard to switch the primary and secondary leads.

But, I'm going to pull the UIM tomorrow and double check everything.

I had the front cover off also, I replaced the gaskets because of low oil pressure.

I ordered a new UIM gasket along with the IAT sensor.

If it ran before, it should be able to run now.
Old 01-14-11, 09:50 PM
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i had a broken iat sensor, it drove fine when i took it to the dealership to pick up the new sensor
Old 01-14-11, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by alritzer
Yes, I used my thumbs to hold the center piece from rotating.
Looks like the Attached picture when the yellow notch is lined up with the stud?
Do you have the right high impedance injectors?
Attached Thumbnails Another No start S5T2-casfour.jpg  
Old 01-15-11, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Looks like the Attached picture when the yellow notch is lined up with the stud?
Do you have the right high impedance injectors?
Thanks for the info. I finally did get the motor to run. There was a vacuum line on the firewall side of the motor that was not connected and one of the injector clips had a broken snap which allowed it to make intermittent contact. Once I pulled the UIM, the problems became apparent. I didn't have a new UIM gasket so I kept putting off pulling it.
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