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Another new TII rebuilt case please help

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Old 09-22-05, 07:41 PM
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Turbo fever

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Unhappy Another new TII rebuilt case please help

Hey guys,
My car is a 1987 TII in great condition, got it back in May It has a new engine that I rebuitl myself and after $$$$, time, love and lost of pacient and the car does not run good, not even close!!. The car got flooded many times, we pushed and pushed some more, then I did the EGI fuse process and it does run but runs very bad, no iddle at all and will die if you don't keep the gas pedal pushed. These are the problem I have so far:
1.The car stars after many tries but after runing for like 15 minutes will not run again unless is pushed.
2. The engine feels like is out of timing and I did set the timing by the book many times (meanig after researching here in the forum) and still the engine feels different, feels like something is holding it and if I let go under 1k rpm dies.
3. The oil pressure gauge does not work propertly, goes all the way up to max as soon as you put the key in the ignition.
4. The cooling system looks like is not completing the circuit, I took the thermstat off the car and still the upper hose gets kind of big after a short while,
I got the car in May and worked on almost every weekend and day off and put lots of money and still not runing.
5. And again the engine fells like extremely tight.
Please guys any sugestions? PLEASE HLEP
Thanks
Carl

Last edited by carlrx788; 09-22-05 at 07:54 PM.
Old 09-23-05, 12:01 AM
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yikes... All I'll say is you might have a vacuum leak... Have you check for leaks?

If you rebuilt it yourself, it's likely something could be hooked up correctly. With the car running, spray around the different vac. lines with carbuerator cleaner... If your idle speed increases, you've found a vac. leak.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Also, check your compression for sure (just to be safe).
Old 09-23-05, 12:07 AM
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check the hose from the air cleaner to the turbo, they tend to crack where they meet the turbo which will cause the car to run like pure ***.
Old 09-23-05, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by carlrx788
Hey guys,
4. The cooling system looks like is not completing the circuit, I took the thermstat off the car and still the upper hose gets kind of big after a short while,
This one jumps out at me.
My first guess is when you pulled the thermostat, you didn't plug the bypass hole it covers down in the pump housing.
Something unusual is making it start to overheat quickly.
Is the radiator is getting hot? - Check the fan clutch.
If not - maybe air in the water jacket? blocked radiator? bad water pump? water pump running backwards?

Several other things are compounding here.
Low compression from a fresh rebuild that hasn't broken in yet.
A possible vacuum leak.
Possible crossed up plug wires.

Stay with it & keep troubleshooting/fixing.

Last edited by SureShot; 09-23-05 at 06:48 AM.
Old 09-23-05, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
This one jumps out at me.
My first guess is when you pulled the thermostat, you didn't plug the bypass hole it covers down in the pump housing.
Something unusual is making it start to overheat quickly.
Is the radiator is getting hot? - Check the fan clutch.
Actually, this one SCARES me.

Plugging up the bypass hole does not allow the upper rad hose to pressurize like that.
A clogged rad would, but that's an easy check to do...

I'm suspicious of a bad rebuild that has allowed combustion to bypass the inner water jacket seal for whatever reason...


-Ted
Old 09-23-05, 06:52 AM
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An open bypass hole will reduce cooling by maybe 20-30%.
It's not the only problem, but it contributes.

Maybe an O ring slipped out of the groove & got pinched during assembly?
Old 09-23-05, 08:14 PM
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Ok Guys,
I'll checkin everything one more time and I'll be posting updates,
thanks
Carl
Old 09-24-05, 10:38 AM
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Ok, I tried again today, I know for fact that the temp sensor is not working because the sensor is lacking the wire, I know that the oil sensor is bad, so reading is not accurate. the car is not overheating but when I got it runing today, I ttok for a spin around the block and it fells like it is out of timing completely. Both rotors got compression, fuel and spark but still fells like a piston engine out of time, like it does not want to go, I did not want to push it over 4k rpm but boy you have to pushe it to get 40 mph. Any I ideas.
Thanks
Carl
Old 09-24-05, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by carlrx788
Ok, I tried again today, I know for fact that the temp sensor is not working because the sensor is lacking the wire, I know that the oil sensor is bad, so reading is not accurate. the car is not overheating but when I got it runing today, I ttok for a spin around the block and it fells like it is out of timing completely. Both rotors got compression, fuel and spark but still fells like a piston engine out of time, like it does not want to go, I did not want to push it over 4k rpm but boy you have to pushe it to get 40 mph. Any I ideas.
Thanks
Carl

STock ecu??? NO motor that I have ever done, takes pushing it to reach 40mph. I have seen #'s inn the 60's and the car still rides fine, slower and hot start problems, but nothing serious. Definately doesnt struggle to hit 40..

Only one rotor is running, and thats for damn sure...
Old 09-24-05, 08:35 PM
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Well, I didn't mean push it literatly, I meant it does not reach 40 mph right away, I will say slow. It does also hot start problems. How can I test if it's runung in one rotor?
Old 09-24-05, 08:42 PM
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compression is the #1 cause, if you are doing the test correctly or not just saying it has compression.

check to be sure all 4 coils are sparking, not just the leadings/trailings and vice versa.

the hose bit did give me the impression that a coolant seal had failed allowing combustion gasses into the cooling system but that is always something you want to assume last.
Old 09-24-05, 09:20 PM
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What I did was I took all the spark plus and I heard the sound of the compression from both rotos, any other way to test the compression? I did try the spark, I took all the spark plus from the engine and pluged them in the respesct wire and all of the fired when I canked it. I do not know if I makin a big deal but I fell the engine like tight and it does run and I went around the block but it fells like low in power, then it really hard to get it start it after is warm but it will start, any other sugestions? tomorrow I am going to take the intake manifold and recheck hoses and connections.
Old 09-24-05, 09:22 PM
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are you sure you have the ignition wires in the correct locations?

and listening to the pulses gives an idea that there is compression but is not an accurate way to tell how strong it is. take a compression gauge and remove all the schrader valves from it and watch the bounces from the needle while cranking.
Old 09-24-05, 09:27 PM
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Ok, I don't have one but my friend does, I will try to get the gauge tomorrow.
Old 09-24-05, 09:30 PM
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but one question Karac? sorry but this is my first engine and I do not want to quit on it. Are new engines like kind of low in power? that is probably what it is and probably should let run the car more. What do you think?
Thanks in advance
Carl
Old 09-24-05, 09:39 PM
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not generally no, every rebuild i have done has a small lack in performance until broken in but nowhere near a considered lack in power. something like that indicates an issue.

even if it was a coolant seal issue(like previous posters mentioned) the engine should still perform normally, which is why i think there is another issue but it may as well have a coolant seal issue as well.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-24-05 at 09:41 PM.
Old 09-24-05, 09:49 PM
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how long does it takt to brake in a rotary, man I always wanted a turbo an I just want my car to run ok
Old 09-26-05, 09:39 AM
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Ok this is the update as today:
I drove the car for loke 15 minutes and it drves great, and I think I can explain what is the problems with the car better now that I test drove:
-the car revs greatly after 3k rpm but it does revs slowly before 3k's
- it does have great torque
-I need to replace the temp and the oil sending unit, they are both bad. The oil one makes the gaude needle go all the way to the top of the gauge and the temp one doesn't have the wire, so I'llbe looking for them here in the club.
-I dorve the car up to 60mph and it will keep going with no problem
-the car is very hard to start when cold and the same when warm, any ideas to improve this?
-both rotor are working but no iddle yet.
I'm probably just to concern, should I just drive to brake the engine in?
All impust are greatly appreciated./
Thanks to all
Carl
Old 09-26-05, 08:33 PM
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Another update,
I took the car for a long drive, because of the idle, I adjusted the accelator cable and keep the iddle speed around 1500 to 2k rpm, I can actually express myself in the correct way now, the car just revs slowly up to 3k rpm then acts great, I do not really know what causes the slow revving but the car drives greatly. I think I was getting nuts because it is my first rebuitl and even if I did buy all correct parts and follow all the procedures between manual and video, I was kind of concern. Tomorrow I'm driving the car to work, it's a 5 miles around trip, let see whats happens. The car ran for like three hours it is getting better but the slow revving, if you guys get me any ideas, will be great. Actually, I want to tell all the club members rebuilding their engines that it is not imposible.
THanks to all
Carl
Old 09-26-05, 08:40 PM
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Carl

Check your timing and your CAS may need to restab.
Old 09-26-05, 08:41 PM
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I did it like 5 times but I will do it again, how you set the timing?
Old 09-27-05, 08:53 AM
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Another update:
I drove the car today to work and no problems at all beside the slow revving, 20 miles of a nice trip. Actually my coworkers came out of the building to see my car, COOL!!. The only concern I have is that I now remember the ride of my GTUs and this Turbo is kind of the same, I beleive the share many components, so it was kind of harsh in my back. Other than that, the car is awesome and people like the car. Well I'll see if I keep it or trade for a vert, I had two and they are nice cars.
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